Yep much easier to understand than the braking system on old Rolls Royces though ;)

The pressure accumulator loses pressure through the butyl diaphragm inside breaking down, a good test is if you get the accumulator off is to poke a ziptie inside if you can get in further than 1 inch then the diaphragm is shot. ;)
Keep it clean'enery DIY gynecology.:eek::D
 
You'll have to pay extra for your gonads next time you get on the plane.does a wheelbarrow qualify as hand luggage? :eek::D:D
Hmm I dunno about a wheelbarrow maybe a rucksack weirdly I know they don't allow butane torches and brake cleaner on to aeroplanes for some reason :rolleyes::D:D
 
Yep never understood why people have ancient discs resurfaced, cost prohibitive especially when new rear discs are £20 each and the thinner they are the more likely they are to warp..

Calipers are cheap too, I bought a set for the back of mine from paddocks a few years ago £25 a piece IIRC..
Those that do are just cheap skates in my book and i deffo would not buy a vehicle off them either. LOL
 
What did I do with my Range Rover today, went shooting.
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I seem to remember there is a minimum thickness allowed anyway, at least there was for my D1.
A lot of discs will have the minimum thickness stamped on the edge.

I've always used cheap discs and pads, never had a problem. The pads don't last as long but my logic is that sliders and pistons have less chance of seizing up opposed to longer lasting pads
 
A lot of discs will have the minimum thickness stamped on the edge.

I've always used cheap discs and pads, never had a problem. The pads don't last as long but my logic is that sliders and pistons have less chance of seizing up opposed to longer lasting pads

I guess there is logic in your argument but I work on the principal that better pad and discs equals better stopping distance particularly in the wet.
 

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