I'm into a bit of resto on an early series 3 and new at it so wonder if I could ask you for a bit of of advice. I'm having to replace the offside door pillar ass the lower half is shot. However the bulkhead around the top hinge is perfectly solid. What's the best way to fix the replacement pillar at the top?
waldershelf
Well-Known Member
Cut your rotten door post back as far as neccesary to be sure you are into solid metal. cut what you need from a repair panel and weld it in, with a bit of care you can make it an invisible repair. Or just chop out the whole thing and weld in a repair panel. Depends how much you want "original"
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
why would he want to CRAP IN THE CARB??
he may have mis understood the term dump valve
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
just what walders' said, with a bit of care and time it will look as good as new, not too heavy on the weld, and grind off after, spotting holes up as you go ,
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
well, back from the shot blasters with a few more bits this last week ,
then on with the red oxide quick before the weather rusts it,
then on with the black hammerite,
4 or 5 coats is ending up batter than powder coat
pedal boxs assembled and fitted ready to plumb up with new clutch and brake pipes that iv yet to make,
press in new shafts
excelerator pedal and linkages fitted
bulkhead brackets sprayed and fitted,
steering box sprayed and assembled, ready to fit,
then on with the red oxide quick before the weather rusts it,
then on with the black hammerite,
4 or 5 coats is ending up batter than powder coat
pedal boxs assembled and fitted ready to plumb up with new clutch and brake pipes that iv yet to make,
press in new shafts
excelerator pedal and linkages fitted
bulkhead brackets sprayed and fitted,
steering box sprayed and assembled, ready to fit,
slookin good.
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
cheers, be some more pics next week , least its keepin me busy wile the rest of the works quiet ,
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
cheers, be some more pics next week , least its keepin me busy wile the rest of the works quiet ,
like i have said before 90tc,you should get in touch with a landy mag and sell them your pics and story, about how you did this restoration.well done bud.
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
like i have said before 90tc,you should get in touch with a landy mag and sell them your pics and story, about how you did this restoration.well done bud.
yeah would be a nice write up , il have a look in to how to get hold of a mag, didnt kno how much interest there was in what iv done till now, spose it wasnt supposed to go this far, more of a quick tidy up and back on the road, am well happy with it now tho
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
spose its better than the haynes manuals
waldershelf
Well-Known Member
I so want a press like that.
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
50 tonnes
lr110
Well-Known Member
er that would be the haynes book of lies "first chock wheels then disconnect battery!" regardless of the task
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
you should get something sorted out,it is by far the best resto of any car i have ever seen or read.go for it mate.
raise::tea:
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
tell me about it , i check the haynes book ocasionaly and its just a joke, the modern ones are even better, " first remove keys from ignition, drop in ash tray on way in house..... contact main dealer for quote" :doh:
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
it dunt look that heavy 90tc.:doh:
weighs bout 100kg
you should get something sorted out,it is by far the best resto of any car i have ever seen or read.go for it mate.
cheers mate, il defo see about it over next few weeks wile its quiet, would be nice to do ,
series III
Member
90 truckcab,
I'd like some basic advice, I'm about to buy a second land rover and then re-build my current series 3 lightweight partly after being inspired by this thread. I think also i'd like to know what a 'new' lightweight would be like to own. I could go out and buy a new 4x4 but i like the idea of a new series 3 - if that makes any sense at all...
so my question is what general advice would you give someone about to do a rebuild given what you have learned from what you have already done? i.e. whether to get a new chassis and then transfer parts as ready or replaced, or start with engine and gearbox as you did here, mistakes to avoid etc. etc.
My idea is keep as close to original as poss, with the exception of the chassis - i'd replace with a galv from Richards probably.
thanks and keep up the good work.
I'd like some basic advice, I'm about to buy a second land rover and then re-build my current series 3 lightweight partly after being inspired by this thread. I think also i'd like to know what a 'new' lightweight would be like to own. I could go out and buy a new 4x4 but i like the idea of a new series 3 - if that makes any sense at all...
so my question is what general advice would you give someone about to do a rebuild given what you have learned from what you have already done? i.e. whether to get a new chassis and then transfer parts as ready or replaced, or start with engine and gearbox as you did here, mistakes to avoid etc. etc.
My idea is keep as close to original as poss, with the exception of the chassis - i'd replace with a galv from Richards probably.
thanks and keep up the good work.
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
firstly , thanks for reading so far , i think everyone else has fallen asleep before now,
as for advice.......... i dont kno where to start really, first thing i did was have a budget .... forget it ,
so next question is what do you want to acheive, if its a new look series 3 light weight to keep original, as if it has just come from the factory, or is it a pimp my ride series with checker plate wings and alloy wheels?
secondly , is it a keeper, if its being done as a quick project with the intention to sell after a couple of years its worth considering how much to spend, idealy if its for keeps as a worker and or show piece, a galv chassis would be a good start,
then the engine and box will need to be done, thats up to you how far you go , depending on the condition or known state ,a quick wash off, the obvious things replaced and cleaned up , new hoses, filters, stats, plugs, oil and a paint up, or do you go mad and strip the whole engine like i did, if theres any doubt of its condition its worth doing , head to sump, new bearings oil seals valves pistons rings proper paint job , then its ready for another 40 years of trouble free service,
then its on to the box, if its a good un , just keep it simple , gaskets, seals, hand brake, props and uj's, as they get older the boxs run in and wear like old slippers till everythings running together sweet, once you introduce new parts to old boxs its the begining of the trouble,
as for body work it was just a matter of stripping the old panells and welding a few bits of rot , flashing off and a good coat of acid etch, then a buff prmer and top coat , wet and dry between coats, then re fitting the electrics wiring and bits of trim,
if i was to do it all again , a few things id consider would be to , as well as the chassis, galv dip the bulkhead after repairs and the fromt panell, also the door drames and the fuel tank, as even tho this all was sand blasted, redoxided primed and top coated for at least 6 coats , every time its touched a spot of rust comes on sharp corners etc,
i have wired this one off the rolls of wire i had in the workshop left from previous builds, but i mght consider a loom for a future project , also where i have used more tradtional parts for ie the leather swivel gaters, the rubber versions would of been better, same as the timing on the 2.25 petrols, would it be better to go electronic ignition ?
parts i'v rebuilt such as the distributor , carb, window wipers, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, dash clocks, i did for something to do really , they would of been a lot cheaper off the shelf for new ones, considering the time i spent on them , but have turned out well and been nice to keep original ,
end of the day i have learned quite a lot from doing a full restoration , than just years or repairs and bits ere and there,
if thers any thin i can help with , contacts , parts etc, just pm me,
hope to see some pics
as for advice.......... i dont kno where to start really, first thing i did was have a budget .... forget it ,
so next question is what do you want to acheive, if its a new look series 3 light weight to keep original, as if it has just come from the factory, or is it a pimp my ride series with checker plate wings and alloy wheels?
secondly , is it a keeper, if its being done as a quick project with the intention to sell after a couple of years its worth considering how much to spend, idealy if its for keeps as a worker and or show piece, a galv chassis would be a good start,
then the engine and box will need to be done, thats up to you how far you go , depending on the condition or known state ,a quick wash off, the obvious things replaced and cleaned up , new hoses, filters, stats, plugs, oil and a paint up, or do you go mad and strip the whole engine like i did, if theres any doubt of its condition its worth doing , head to sump, new bearings oil seals valves pistons rings proper paint job , then its ready for another 40 years of trouble free service,
then its on to the box, if its a good un , just keep it simple , gaskets, seals, hand brake, props and uj's, as they get older the boxs run in and wear like old slippers till everythings running together sweet, once you introduce new parts to old boxs its the begining of the trouble,
as for body work it was just a matter of stripping the old panells and welding a few bits of rot , flashing off and a good coat of acid etch, then a buff prmer and top coat , wet and dry between coats, then re fitting the electrics wiring and bits of trim,
if i was to do it all again , a few things id consider would be to , as well as the chassis, galv dip the bulkhead after repairs and the fromt panell, also the door drames and the fuel tank, as even tho this all was sand blasted, redoxided primed and top coated for at least 6 coats , every time its touched a spot of rust comes on sharp corners etc,
i have wired this one off the rolls of wire i had in the workshop left from previous builds, but i mght consider a loom for a future project , also where i have used more tradtional parts for ie the leather swivel gaters, the rubber versions would of been better, same as the timing on the 2.25 petrols, would it be better to go electronic ignition ?
parts i'v rebuilt such as the distributor , carb, window wipers, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, dash clocks, i did for something to do really , they would of been a lot cheaper off the shelf for new ones, considering the time i spent on them , but have turned out well and been nice to keep original ,
end of the day i have learned quite a lot from doing a full restoration , than just years or repairs and bits ere and there,
if thers any thin i can help with , contacts , parts etc, just pm me,
hope to see some pics
