1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Plastic arch liners are probably the worst part for trapping ****ty water and crap against the arch!
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cachophrastus
Member
Fair comment.
cachophrastus
Member
No they don't! Rubbish! So why is there no "crap" or corrosion behind the liners in the pictures he shows. I don't take plastic liners off. Life is too short. If I can get a wand up behind I will but the wheel arches behind the liners are not a problem. The wheel arches generally have good quality plastic underseal oversprayed with body colour and the liners fit tightly against them. Nothing gets behind the liners.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
They're filthy!
Just be a man admit you've done a **** job, come to an agreement with your customer.
Wipe your mouth and move on.
cachophrastus
Member
No they're not. In the first pic the paint is a bit discoloured. In the second pic it's pretty much clean as a whistle.
Richie24hr
Member
Jesus , come on Chris ? Give over will you, you are embarrassing, like you say you spray with a wand over the arch , so where is it ! This is getting boring , it's shameful , try 75 % coverage but more importantly the real key areas missed ! I could've just done what you've done myself. Man up and just admit its rubbish. Your terms and conditions are pointless and so is your guarantee , the more I look at the underside of my vehicle the worse I feel , just shameful .
cachophrastus
Member
You are not a genuine person. You want me to pay for your part which has rotted out. Not honest!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
With no product.
I'm done with you, if flogging a dead 'oss was an Olympic sport you'd get gold.
@Richie24hr Best of luck you're gonna need it
neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi @cachophrastus
Now you have some more time,
Could you look at post #150 , please.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Now you have some more time,
Could you look at post #150 , please.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
cachophrastus
Member
Well I wouldn't expect to get a fair hearing (geddit?) from yourself. You think I am conning everyone because my phone has a message telling people I have hearing difficulties and to email me.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
I think you are conning people because you take money for crap work. Enjoy your deluded world and dreamt up facts. You edited a comment about me out of a previous post because you knew it was untrue. Do one you melt
cachophrastus
Member
Hi, No. I don't remove diff guards.
Well I think I do the work correctly. I think what I need to do is do a Land Rover show next year and I'll dig out the special stands I had made so that people can see under the car and I'll ask all my customer to see who might be going to a show and ask them to let me put their car on display. I did that with a few shows a few years ago. I stopped because it's so expensive to do A show. Of course you won't know which cars were really rusty when I did them because they will be covered.
The areas that need welding are usually pretty obvious. I use a 1,000 watt projector to illuminate the underbody so I can see pretty well what's what. That said, with my helmet and visor on and the water spray and debris hitting my visor I might miss something at first but on a car which looks like it could be rotten I look in the usual places and then when I rustproof I will usually spot something if I missed it. In the case of Mr. Smith's fuel neck I'm not too clear what has happened to that. It sounds like it could just have rotted on a seam.
With Defenders and D2's I've done so many of them that I could do them blindfold. I have a strict routine that I follow and it involves double checking. I also double check what is visible of the underbody when I clean the upper body. Sometime I find a bit missed and have to take it round to the workshop again. (Very annoying when this happens LOL)
LIke I said, I have a 1,000 watt metal halide projector on the underbody and good overhead lighting. If I need a further light I usually use a very powerful hand held torch.
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neilly
Well-Known Member
OK, Thanks for that @cachophrastus
How do you clean the inside of the chassis rails , crossmembers etc ,if it is like a LR chassis?
Cheers
How do you clean the inside of the chassis rails , crossmembers etc ,if it is like a LR chassis?
Cheers
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
A couple of things I don't understand... If it was that rusty and rotten why would you even touch the job knowing you're liable for it for the next ten years? Who will under write your guarantee as I'm sure you won't still be doing rectification work when you're 76? And finally £350 x 5 x 52 =£91,000 overheads????
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
What's a melt?
Richie24hr
Member
I don't care about the part anymore it's done now , i care about the job I paid for which is an eyesore. Pointless going round in circles with you, I'll be seeking compensation for the money I paid ? If I loose I loose , it' all about principle , it's a case of whats right and wrong , now you call me dishonest ? I'm a very well respected man where I live for many reasons. Lets leave this now and i will see you in court.
cachophrastus
Member
As you will know it is not easy to clean the inside of the crossmember. There is a hole just where the cross member joins the chassis legs. I poke my pressure washer in there and give it a good blast. I keep the wheels on so of course my pressure washer is at an angle when I poke it in and anyway the best angle you could get even if you took the wheel off would be around ninety degrees to the cross member. But my pressure washer has a huge amount of flow and pressure of 3.500 psi (sorry - don't do bar I'm a psi man), So the water blast ricochets around and is generally very effective at cleaning out that cavity. If the cross member is really bunged up with heavy clay I might have to jet wash into the holes on the back of the chassis as well. And then very rarely if there is still some gunge in there when I come to inject I get a flat bladed screwdriver and airline into the little holes at the back.
Re: inside of chassis rails, well the place the mud tends to build up is in that hole at the back of the chassis. (On the driver's side the hole is for the loom to come out). So I always get in there and give it a good blast. If the chassis is really bunged up along the whole length of it from being used by an off road animal, that is a different story. That might take a good hour of trying to blast into the various holes along the chassis. It's very laborious and you have to do it until you see clean water running out of the holes underneath the chassis.
cachophrastus
Member
Yes. Rent, electricity, rates, advertising. It all adds up. Why would I touch the job if I'm liable for it for the next ten years? Good question! I think it was just a continuation of the 5 year guarantee I've always given for 5 waxoyl jobs. But you are right. I am being a sucker. What's more it's giving me the wrong image. It makes me look like a tart up operator. That's why I'm bringing in the new system.
Also, I can't know in advance what a vehicle is going to be like underneath and you won't every get a true story from the customer, even if they ever looked underneath. I do rusty vehicles because I can and no-one else can IMHO. So should I make owners of very rusty vehicles pay more? Well that it tricky because until you get it up on the wash ramp and blast it you can't really tell. And I don't really want to get into endless arguments with customers about what the cut off point for "very rusty" or "likely to have rot" is. But I'm going to have to bite the bullet. Hopefully my new system will sort that out. A customer can't argue with 12 photos posted up and I hope it will also solve my image problem because customers with good clean cars will have the record to show that it was not a tart up job.
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Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I just hope that as and when you decide to jack it in you manage to find some way of underwriting your guarantee otherwise at some point in the next few years your warranty is worth jack
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