Simon Perks

Active Member
Is this a good idea? Anyone know why the Defender TD5 doesn't have one?
Point is it seems i am losing some pressure resulting in sloppy performance and I have read that you can just bypass it without causing other issues.

Alpine greetings

Simon
 
If you want your D2 to run with less low end power, slower acceleration and lower boost on kick down then simply bypass it.... though if you are loosing pressure and have performance issues that's not caused by the modulator, that one would cause overboost so better find and fix the boost leak rather than downgrade your D2. The defender doesnt have it but it has a different fuel map, IMO not a good ideea at all to bypass it on the D2 for other than for diagnostic reasons, just a bodge
 
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Has your sloppy performance always been there or is it more of recent thing?
I purchased my TD5 D2 auto and it ran very poorly, checked all the vacuum hoses to see if they were perished, check the waste gate valve was functioning, cleaned the MAF & MAS, found the oil in the ECU connector so replaced the injector wiring harness & replaced the waste gate control valve, things were better but nothing like it should of been. Checked the waste gate actuator setting and it was around 19 threads, so it was never really opening the waste gate. Adjusted it to around 11 threads from the start of the threads to the lock nut and it runs decent now. Nothing new here, just a recap of some things to look at
 
Has your sloppy performance always been there or is it more of recent thing?
I purchased my TD5 D2 auto and it ran very poorly, checked all the vacuum hoses to see if they were perished, check the waste gate valve was functioning, cleaned the MAF & MAS, found the oil in the ECU connector so replaced the injector wiring harness & replaced the waste gate control valve, things were better but nothing like it should of been. Checked the waste gate actuator setting and it was around 19 threads, so it was never really opening the waste gate. Adjusted it to around 11 threads from the start of the threads to the lock nut and it runs decent now. Nothing new here, just a recap of some things to look at

For me it seems it got worse after the head gasket change having sat at an elevated angle for a couple of weeks, turned out it needed ATF fluid which improved it some what, then i replaced the modulator and the actuator but didn't really take a note of where the waste gate lever was set at.
Yes it made a big difference though, earlier gear changes and way smoother.
I haven't checked the injector loom yet and i will take your advice about the threads.
Next stop front hubs and CV joints

Simon up the Alp
 
Does this help?
 

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