I have had plenty of help and I am of course grateful, and Im sorry but ever since ive been on here Ive been ripped by certain members (usually the same idiots), who have nothing better to do thatLighten up a bit. You have had plenty of help, and will get more.
When you have been on the forum a bit longer, you will realise that there is a friendly rivalry between the enthusiasts of different Landrover vehicles.
yepLighten up a bit. You have had plenty of help, and will get more.
When you have been on the forum a bit longer, you will realise that there is a friendly rivalry between the enthusiasts of different Landrover vehicles.
I have had plenty of help and I am of course grateful, and Im sorry but ever since ive been on here Ive been ripped by certain members (usually the same idiots), who have nothing better to do that
yep
I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.
Before you do anything though, I'd check the colour of the IRD oil. If it is metallicy, you have problems which will mean a probable replacement IRD. If that is a non-starter, then you'll be wanting to run it as 2WD (by removing the props) and swapping tyres out will basically be a pointless waste of money.
Assuming the IRD is good. You then want to do the One Wheel Up Test to determine the condition of the VCU. If the timings (with a 5kg weight on a 1.2m bar) are coming in over a minute, whip the props off so as not to damage anything until you've got the replacement VCU. You should whip the props off till the tyres are sorted as well.
Given the coolant leak, you may want to prioritise things - once again to make sure you don't spend any wasted money.
All this though does no identify what is causing the clicking you are getting when reversing on lock. That obviously can have an impact on what you do. This clicking may be a (diff or VCU) support/mount but I'm thinking it isn't. I'm thinking its the IRD or rear diff. Investigation is needed.
I hear the Federation Of Hairstylists are on a clean language drive.II suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the sponsors.
It wasn't good enough to be quoted twice!
I haven't seen that you have had anyone rib you more than any other noob. And the people who have been taking the pee have also been helping you.
BTW, I suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the boss, and the sponsors.
I hear the Federation Of Hairstylists are on a clean language drive.
Absolutely. The OP could have had my 2005 TD4 SE auto for £2.5K and she's mechanically perfect. Although I'm not actually selling it yet, but the OP could have waited and found a car like mine for similar money.I think he means you could have got a car without obvious faults for the money.
Apologies.
Just use my usual tone of language on here, didnt realise id be offending the hairdressers that frequent this forum.I hear the Federation Of Hairstylists are on a clean language drive.
Apologies to the boss then.Dunt bother me, but the boss dunt like it.
A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.I'm not sure on the availability of cradles or their cost, but you have to drop the rear subframe to fit them
The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.they don't just unbolt and a new one bolt on. There are threads describing it on here
Great thanks. ill look into it.A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.
The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.
Sadly there's a **** load of other stuff to unbolt and reattach once the cradle is replaced.
Absolutely. The OP could have had my 2005 TD4 SE auto for £2.5K and she's mechanically perfect. Although I'm not actually selling it yet, but the OP could have waited and found a car like mine for similar money.
Just make sure they know Freelanders, a lot of Land Rover specialists haven't got the knowledge to diagnose Freelander faults properly.I was planning to replace all 4 anyway after reading (your post) re 'new owners must do' post and do the VCU 'test'. I wont actually be using the car until its sorted. As said, ill probably get it to the local LR specialist and see if they can work out where the 'noise' is coming from and the best (cheapest) course of action.
Good lord, didnt realise owning a freelander was gonna be such a task!Just make sure they know Freelanders, a lot of Land Rover specialists haven't got the knowledge to diagnose Freelander faults properly.
Not only do i need a landrover specialist i need a freelander specialist specialist!Good lord, didnt realise owning a freelander was gonna be such a task!
and its hoped that those of you in that instance are graceful enough not to just take the p*ss and help those less knowledgable.
I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.