sjw-eng

New Member
Well have read the posts checked out the links and still no better. Something is very wrong! Ok it is sugested that the voltage on the lambda sensor should be 0-0.5 lean, 0.5-1 rich. Well on petrol i have 2.5V on Lpg i have 0.03V, regardless of what i do with the Vaporiser controls. So i checked the venturi and i think it is too small, its only 34mm bore, is this too small for 3.9 Litres?
 
mine is 34mm....

What does make a difference on mine is the ammount of gas in the tank, it doesnt run so good when it gets low and the green/red lights are next to useless.

One screw on vaporiser is idle speed, doesnt matter what you do with it, idle on a efi is controled by ecu. The other screw, hard to explain, adjusts where the gas starts from, not the amount of gas but how soon/late the gas starts to flow depending on the vac in the gas pipe. It wont make much difference. From memory. its dark and Im not away to look...There should be a pipe joined in to the idle control valve to allow some gas to bleed in at idle speed.
Most of the adjustment should be done with the screw, power valve, on the gas pipe, not on the vaporiser. out for more gas, in for less gas, what you want is in as far as the car drives ok, further out is just wasting gas.

Unless you have a lambda controled gas system then voltage at hego makes no difference as it doesnt control anything do do with gas. Not all hegos work on the same voltage :)
 
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Aaagh the plot thickens. If only i had a drawing or some instructions, looks like i will have to take the damm thing apart. I just don't want to give a load of money to some stranger and be dependant on them for evermore.
 
Its light so I looked... I'm talking ****e about the gas bleed to the idle valve...must have been on something else :) maybe what the kit came from...a v6 ford.

Theres nothing complicated about it, rather crude even. Even single point lambda controled systems still work the same just the "power valve" is eletric so, in theory, is always correct.

The vaporiser supplies gas on demand...the more suck the more gas, its just a diaphram connected to a tapered needle. One of the adjusting srcews adjust where this needle starts at. One is for idle, just allows a little gas to pass the main needle as theres not enough suck but yours idles so fiddling with it wont make much, if any differance.

Have you got plenty of gas? I know when the gas is getting low when I come to hills, theres less power....dont think I could run it out of gas as it would run so bad by then you wouldnt be able to move.

This male-female mixer is designed to fit Rover petrol-injected V8 engines, with hot-wire type air-flow meters (as in the 3.9 and 4.2 litre classic Range Rover and 3.5 and 3.9 litre Discovery). The mixer is fitted between the plenum chamber air intake and the air hose.
It has a 72mm diameter and a 34mm choke size (best size for most engines).

It should be used with the standard air filter, and does not suite K&N type filters.

quote from Tinley Tech Limited Mixers,etc. - for single-point induction systems for my mixer. You got a standard air filter?
 
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Close up the screw on the power valve and then unscrew three complete turns.

If it will idle but not rev cleanly, I would suspect that the diaphragm in the vapouriser is split. Given that you don't know the history it would be worth getting the vapouriser serviced (or buying a kit and DIY) anyway.
 

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