carl1503

New Member
hi recently got a new defender and i am wanting to prevent the dreaded rust for along as i can without getting the chassis galvanised. whats best been told that waxoyl is the best suggestion just wanted a second opinion from anyone that has done similar.
thanks
carl
 
Dinatrol land rover kit is very good ! Used waxoil on my wife's L200 and it is harder to put on and more messy
 
Dinatrol land rover kit is very good ! Used waxoil on my wife's L200 and it is harder to put on and more messy

+1 for Dinitrol. Was recommended that on here too. Bought a kit for my rebuild. Only used the cavity type so far, but have been very impressed with it. Penetrates and travels really well.
 
+1 for Dinitrol. Was recommended that on here too. Bought a kit for my rebuild. Only used the cavity type so far, but have been very impressed with it. Penetrates and travels really well.

+1 very impressed with it. i have used waxoyl before and never had any problems but went with the Dinatrol this time and don't regret it.
 
When I researched this subject a few months ago, the clear winner seemed to be bilt hamber products.
Followed by dinatrol.

In one accelerated test the metal covered in waxoyl had completely disappeared , whilst the bilt hamber covered one was still fine.

If I wasn't at work, I'd stick a link up.

As to ease of application , I don't know as all the cans are sitting in the shed still waiting for some spare time.
 
When I researched this subject a few months ago, the clear winner seemed to be bilt hamber products.
Followed by dinatrol.

In one accelerated test the metal covered in waxoyl had completely disappeared , whilst the bilt hamber covered one was still fine.

If I wasn't at work, I'd stick a link up.

As to ease of application , I don't know as all the cans are sitting in the shed still waiting for some spare time.

on the bilthamber site

however, it doesn't really show creep, which is what you want for the chassis inside.
 
There are two types of rust proofing from bilt hammer .

From memory you use dynax s-50 for inside the chassis is it's thinner and less abrasion resistant, and for the outside you us dynax UB which is much tougher and self healing.

They also make some other stuff called dynax uc which is very thin and see through which you can put on your wheels or crossmember to protect it.

Of course it doesn't matter really what you use , the key is how well it's applied.

A well prepared chassis , well covered with waxoyl will last a lot longer than a chassis that's be poorly or hurriedly covered by the more modern stuff like Bilt hamber or Dinatrol.
 
I find that Waxoyl works a lot better if you dilute it with 10% gearbox oil (engine oil is too thin)
 

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