Great stuff where's the best guide to understand how to do this?

Here. Although you will only need the first part. It is very easy to remove the transfer box leaving the gearbox in place:

Remove the props
remove handbrake and back plate (may not need to do this with a standard drum set I have a disc conversion)
Remove the gear and diff lickage
disconnect the breather
disconect the diff lock light switch and battery earth if fitted
remove the speedo cable
Remove chassis mount
unbolt from the main gearbox recording the position of each bolt as they are differant lengths
It will then slide back and drop conviniently on your chest knocking the wind out of you and can then be slid out from under the vehicle.
 
[QUOTE="dag019,
It will then slide back and drop conviniently on your chest knocking the wind out of you and can then be slid out from under the vehicle.[/QUOTE]



Made me smile did that one dag.:)
 
Made me smile did that one dag.:)
Having now done it a few times I know to brace and tense for when it drops. I put it back the same way and just lift it up while someone inside lines it up, it is far easier and quicker than trying to use a jack from below or a crane form above. However I am still young and strong enough to get away with that, as i get older I am sure I will be looking for a more suitable method.
 
I made a cradle as in this post on another forum
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/247514-lt230-jack-lifting-mount.html
It attaches to the cover plate bolts under the transfer box and provides a flat face to enable the use of a trolley jack. Having someone guide the box from above helps but I managed to remove and refit mine using the cradle on my own. It would have been a pig of a job without it and dangerous as well!
I wouldn’t fancy being trapped on the floor under a landrover with a transfer box on my chest squeezing my breath out.......
 
Ouch
Guess i am spoilt

Sounds painful the farmers son made a device that fits on our farm workshop ramp..
we have a four poster with a jack that moves along it powered by air.

he has converted an old scissor jack that drops over it and then you jack up with the air device and bolt it to gearbox and then u can just take the weight and slide it back. minor adjustments with the scissor are easy

Makes lining up for the clutch easy.

Might have to get him to modify it or make a another suitable for the transfer box...

only a matter of time before i need mine out..

Probably about 2 weeks after i manage to complete my 200tdi conversion knowing my luck
 
Ok bear with me a very green defender owner. We own an 89 defender 90 pick up with a 200tdi engine from a disco. 205k on the clock. Me and my lad went on a very easy off road day all organised. Anyway as we went up a hill we had a big clunk whilst in diff lock and loss of drive, it moved only with handbrake on!! Then it spat the cogs through the rear diff casin!! We have replaced the rear diff. However it now drives like a bag of spanner’s. After about 400m it shudders and when we slow down and turn it clunks and clanks from the from and I sh1t myself!! Where do I start, could it be the front half shafts, or the gear box shaft thingy in the transfer box. Help please in simple terms cheers.

First rule of driving a Land Rover - take it easy! Yes they can go just about anywhere but take care and don't do things too fast or you will end up blowing diffs and half-shafts and worse.

So from what you have said, it sounds like you blew you rear diff, by locking the handbrake you forced the centre diff to do more than it was designed to do - take up the difference in prop-shaft speed when cornering - so the diff was then going like the clappers of Christendom and it probably blew up or go damn near it. This is why when going off road and traction is likely to be lost the centre diff should be locked up unless going really very slowly.

It's fair enough you didn't know, but locking the diff would have been your way home.
 

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