My salisbury rear I was either going to order 30 spline centres from the states cheap v cheap and a set of 30 spline unbreakable shafts again very cheap and machie out the hubs to fit bigger bearings and use bigger stubs. That way the nback end it totally reliable and unbreakable but decided that I want to be competing in RTV next year and my 90 is too heavy and sluggish being a diesel. So gave up on it. For the outlay of about £400 it would be so so strong. Never know I may keeping for a project in a few years time.
 
jai_landrover said:
I've done a single peg for my trials motor it's a mechanical fix far superior to hd cwp because it has to keep it in mesh. Also even hd cwp were nowhere near the material spec LR used but designed to run the correct rotation now ashcroft have upped the material
Spec again so closer to LR originals.

Pinion bearings don't just fail so if it's setup not old and worn then shoud be grand.
Click to expand...

Yeah ive never broken a diff yet so dont see doing it soon :) £65 per peg kit so not too bad I can do the rest myself

D2 front end with locker, pegged and ashcroft cv's and shafts is 1100 ish rear end about 900 5 year warranty so 2k for pretty much unbreakable axles :) including lockers thats not too bad and much lighter than sailsburys :)

Need to get it conpetition ready really and start challenging it. Next thing is winch. Ive got a 8274 which ill probably keep preety standard as if I start upgrading it GP main shaft. Twin motor housing air freespool etc I might aswell buy a Red winch Hornet fir a similar price with all the toys already fitted but in a full billet housing not relying on the weak as 8274 drum housing. But tahts another 2.5k :( hence keep it standard and just cope with slower winching :) its still meatier than almost any other winch :)
 
If you want the bung, just pay for the postage.

My plan for the axles are..

AC shafts
AC center LSD
pegged (got a load of phosper bronze to make it)
I forget what CW&P but its on one of Nige's video's, theres one which has very wide teeth which are much stronger than most "HD CW&P"
 
discomark10 said:
If you want the bung, just pay for the postage.

My plan for the axles are..

AC shafts
AC center LSD
pegged (got a load of phosper bronze to make it)
I forget what CW&P but its on one of Nige's video's, theres one which has very wide teeth which are much stronger than most "HD CW&P"
Click to expand...

Done pm me the address and paypal or whatever and ill take it :)

Yeah ive got a borg warner TB so already got a slip basically there :) then preety much the same


Thats the 4.12 I think I watched that vid last night by god it looks meaty :D
 
One wing done ... ish ... just needs painting and some better wheel arches as standard ones are **** and dont cover the front of the tyre when bent around the curve of the wing :rolleyes:

I also seem to have "fixed" my oil leak somehow ?? It was leaking from around the oil filter area so yesterday I gave it a good dose of tfr and a good steam wash to work out exactly which seal was leaking and now ..
Well ... none of them are :D she likes being clean I guess :doh: :D

Just having a brew before I tackle the other wing :)
 
jai_landrover said:
My salisbury rear I was either going to order 30 spline centres from the states cheap v cheap and a set of 30 spline unbreakable shafts again very cheap and machie out the hubs to fit bigger bearings and use bigger stubs. That way the nback end it totally reliable and unbreakable but decided that I want to be competing in RTV next year and my 90 is too heavy and sluggish being a diesel. So gave up on it. For the outlay of about £400 it would be so so strong. Never know I may keeping for a project in a few years time.
Click to expand...

I used to do a kit of new stub axles, remachined hubs and dana 70 lockers for the salisbury
 
I was 95% ready to order some en24 stock for machining into stubs but need to finnish other things I've started and not completed before I takeon another project
 
Right problem.

I went to instal my remote filter housing tonight which replaces the original filter housing and added a reote housing on the wing. All went fine. Some preety simple instructions as its not a hard job.

Went to start it up and ive got no oil flow or pressure. (Theres a bleed screw on the housing so I had a look ) so I take the pipes off of the housing and turn it over for a second. Nothing comes out ???

Take the housing off and it looks as if no real ammount of oil has reached the housing.

Whats happened ?

I did pull the drive gear out (mainly to see how it worked) and put it back in and felt it sit in some sort of slot. But now I cant pull it out and feels stiff to turn. Has something snappe/ got wedged I dont know what it fits onto/ how it pumps really


Help :(
 
Pack it completely we have an extended oil pump drive welded to some long bar we use in a decent drill to prime the oil. There must be loads of V8's after a rebuild or changed oil pump that have died because the oil couldn't be primed.
 
Just asked a mate and he said the same :) phew I can prime it in the morning :) If I pou oil down one hydraulic pipe to the pump and leave the other open to breathe this should also work yes ?
 
Where at this Sunday? If we get the head gasket finished on mine we might pop over .. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

landy-lee
Help me with my 2 door RRC build
Replies
2
Views
1K
landy-lee
landy-lee
M
Discovery1 lt230 in place of LT230R from a 12D?
Replies
3
Views
852
MrF
M
RustHater
Disk upgrade on a 90, can you swap front discs to rear?
2
Replies
27
Views
3K
RustHater
RustHater
D
Stub axle oil seal
Replies
13
Views
2K
Dr Strangeglove
D
K
What money should I be asking?
2
Replies
27
Views
4K
Karls
K