jai_landrover said:

We need to all meet up at the Nats if we all get there this year

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Whats that and where? And when?

jai_landrover said:

We need to all meet up at the Nats if we all get there this year

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i'm going to try to so ill hopefully see you there.

my only disagreement with plates on the bottom is removing the cage through the wings either a big hole has to be made or the wing will have to come off forward, which is still going to be a fair hole and in trying to make it fairly tidy if i can hence the sleeving which would be neater, are there any rejections scrutineering wise against sleeving ?

200tdi ayre said:

how did you do in your trial pembs ? my first one is on the 17th feb as long as the truck is ready, which i am hoping so

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Had a great day. I only navigate, but we had a class win and lowest overall of the day. Really tough conditions, heaps of mud and lots of laughs.
17th of Feb will be on you soon. You'll be burning the midnight oil mate.

PembsLandy said:

Had a great day. I only navigate, but we had a class win and lowest overall of the day. Really tough conditions, heaps of mud and lots of laughs.
17th of Feb will be on you soon. You'll be burning the midnight oil mate.

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Nice one mate sounds like a tough day

I know plenty still to do but it's achievable

There is an article about roll cages in this months LRM

sible88 said:

There is an article about roll cages in this months LRM

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Great cheers ill pick it up I've got Lro but not Lrm, although I was flicking through a feature on a challenge Lro showed and my cage is higher specked then most of the guys in the comp

To my limited knowledge of alrc specs the preferred method that I would use is the min 5"x5" plate secured to similar welded over outrigger which is boxed in.

If you can get through scrutineering using the sleeved method then yes, for you it would be neater.

Also remember that the only holes allowed in the cage are 3/16" not within 4" of any bend or joint for inspection purposes only. I think I'm right on that if someone can confirm.

Right we've done the timing tonight first we started by locking the injector pump at TDC a 9.5 mm drill bit fits perfectly for the job



Fot the injector cog onto the injector with the holes for the bolts in the centre of the slots, and nip the bolts up to just hold it in place.

Next the cogs were fitted, all parts have been thoroughly cleaned first
So here's the cam cog with the dot lining up with the brace for the cover bolt


And the crank cog lines up the woodruffe key with the arrow on the casing


The crank also has another lining up point on the flywheel with a small notch and the drain plug


You can just see the notch, this should line up with the centre of the hole, there are tools avalable to lock the flywheel in place but if your careful this isn't required

So here's a pic of the front before the belt


Now the cog holes and the belt rarely line up perfectly with the marks so you have to go to the nearest tooth, this can be slightly adjusted later

Then if you start by applying the belt to the crank cog and then under the idler, if you wedge the bottom of the belt underneith the crank cog this helps the belt stop falling off / te cog moving then keep it taught whilst applying the belt to the cam and then the injector cogs and over the top of the tensioner pulley, it may take some wedging to get the belt around the injector cog and as said earlier you may need to slightly turn the injector cog to make them line up, this will require loosening the injector cog bolts and turning the cog until it meets with the belt teeth. Then re-tighten.

The belt should be fairly taught but with up to half a turn of the belt at the longest gap. But slightly less than this is advisable

Once the bolts are tight turn the crank via the main bolt at the front this may take some spacers to hold the bolt,


Turn the crank 2 turns exactly until the notch on the flywheel lines up with the drain hole centre and lock in place, check the alignment of the marking notches and if needed adjust on the injector pump by slacking off the 3 bolts and adjusting, and that's it make sure all the bolts are torqued up and replace covers ect



Done !

Amazing! Gonna be doing mine soon, so your pics and description will be of great use.

sible88 said:

Amazing! Gonna be doing mine soon, so your pics and description will be of great use.

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No worries it's pretty simple really, line up all of the marks and keep the belt tonight whilst fitting turn over an even number of times and check they all line up again basically

Nice 'n' easy

Noisy I hate it when your right !!
Next setback, I sent my head off to get skimmed, and whilst it was there it was tested and it was cracked

So after little deliberation and having good contacts I went and fetched this


It's one my dads best mate had after it failed not on rot in the boot floor and so needing an engine I've had it off him for a good price, I've driven it on trade plates and the engine revs well and is smooth so I'm happy .

It's an auto but has the earlier pump so all is good there, so if anyone wants any parts off of it there all for sale bar the engine, the auto box is smooth and the transfer box works well and engages easily so let me know if you want anything and ill give you a price

After a wash it looks alot tidier, I haven't found any real problems with the chassis yet but the boot floor is knackered, rear arches 1 is very good and the other is good, it's a shame it's getting taken apart but I needs me an engine ! Tempted to drop my 4l v8 into it but I've got none of the electrics for that engine or the 3.5 on carbs. Someone can buy the complete thing off of me if you please but I want the engine

That sad moment when


But on a brighter note 2 hours and we have this




Now some modding to make it fit the manual box and were good to go

Sweet!

Are your engine mounts in the right place or are you still using short bell housing??

Right after getting the engine out I've started getting it all ready to drop in onto the lt77 so off had to come the torque converter and the old backing plate


Now I have to fit the backing plate off of my 200 tdi to match up with the bellhousing bolts on the gearbox



They're quite different so you can't just swap from one gearbox to another without swapping these too

Also had to remove the dowling from 2 of the holes to let the new backing plate fit


And of course I've got a new clutch to go in with a few differences




Whilst I've been at this Haslam has been attacking the bulkhead to try and fix the rot,



So that's tonight's work anyway, pretty happy with the progress seeing as I didn't even own the engine that's almost ready to go in at 2 o clock

Mr Noisy said:

Sweet!

Are your engine mounts in the right place or are you still using short bell housing??

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Still using the short bellhousing mate to keep the engine as far back as possible, ill have to make up some mounts I think tomorrow to get it all fitted

why did you have to remove dowels ,other housing already got them fitted

jamesmartin said:

why did you have to remove dowels ,other housing already got them fitted

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Dowel probably isn't the right word, they were more liners in bolt holes that guests inside the auto housing but not into the lt77 housing so the plate wouldn't push flat with them in

dowel is the right word there needs to be 2 if your not fitting 300 housing