Grrrrrr · Jul 18, 2017

Had some more threads strip recently and only just suspected my torque wrench might be acting up. It is 20 years old now I think about it. Doesn't time fly? So, bought another and compared them. Totally inaccurate. No wonder I have been having issues.

If anyone knows how to revitalise an old Draper torque wrench and recalibrate it is theirs if they collect.

The lesson for everyone else is: borrow a known good one once in a while and compare!

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
Had some more threads strip recently and only just suspected my torque wrench might be acting up. It is 20 years old now I think about it. Doesn't time fly? So, bought another and compared them. Totally inaccurate. No wonder I have been having issues.

If anyone knows how to revitalise an old Draper torque wrench and recalibrate it is theirs if they collect.

The lesson for everyone else is: borrow a known good one once in a while and compare!

That is supposing the one you borrowed is correct.............

I had the same question, so I set up a simple test using both of mine against a weight on a bar. Found they were all within what I would expect as acceptable.

But, I still agree , if in doubt double check and check again, make sure you are not making a mistake.

Cheers

Jake ingleby · Jul 18, 2017

Sorry to hijack the thread but its related ish, does anyone no what the digital torque adapters are like

cheers'n'gone

Paul D · Jul 18, 2017

The best way to keep a standard sprung torque wrench is to simply undo it every time. When you then come to tighten a nut and bolt up, use another similar nut and bolt and work the wrench a few times to make sure the mechanism sits correctly. Use a steady, continual pull when tightening near to the torque point without snatching at it.

myfirstl322 · Jul 18, 2017

Paul D · Jul 18, 2017

Jake ingleby said:
Sorry to hijack the thread but its related ish, does anyone no what the digital torque adapters are like

cheers'n'gone

'It depends' If the adaptor is within spec and calibrated properly they are as good as anything else.

Thing is, torque is a very variable number, tighten a dry joint and you'll reach torque quickly but it will actually (in general) not be a good joint. Tighten a slightly oiled joint and it'll take longer to reach torque, but will be a much tighter, normally much stronger, joint.

When you're tightening to torque all you're actually doing (usually) is tightening a number of fasteners to the same value as close as you can get it. bearing in mind the joint condition. In cars and motors the torque isn't usually a critical factor and is often just whatever the size of fastener or thread will take at somewhere near the yield point. Some joints, however, are pretty critical, Big ends, head bolts, injectors to the performance needed.

Better joint torque accuracy doesn't necessarily come from digital, electronic or whatever 'new' thing, it comes from clean joints and repeated tightening techniques.

frog hopper · Jul 18, 2017

myfirstl322 said:

Anyone know if I can use the same formula but subbing newtons for Ft/lb's?? yes my torque wrench really is that old.

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

frog hopper said:
Anyone know if I can use the same formula but subbing newtons for Ft/lb's?? yes my torque wrench really is that old.

Shirley you mean ft/lbs for N/m...............and yes you can.

Cheers

frog hopper · Jul 18, 2017

Muchos grassyarse neilly.

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

frog hopper said:
Muchos grassyarse neilly.

Oh, was there a formula involved....................???

Iirc a haynes manual has the conversion in it, or you could google it anyway....................

Cheers

Grrrrrr · Jul 18, 2017

Paul D said:
The best way to keep a standard sprung torque wrench is to simply undo it every time. When you then come to tighten a nut and bolt up, use another similar nut and bolt and work the wrench a few times to make sure the mechanism sits correctly. Use a steady, continual pull when tightening near to the torque point without snatching at it.

Always kept undone. Otherwise you knacker the spring.

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
Always kept undone. Otherwise you knacker the spring.

My 700Nm torque wrench takes some undoing..................

Cheers

Grrrrrr · Jul 18, 2017

neilly said:
My 700Nm torque wrench takes some undoing..................

Cheers

Does it go down tom 300Nm? Or even 200Nm?

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
Does it go down tom 300Nm? Or even 200Nm?

Apparently it starts at 140Nm, tho what use that would be given the size of the beast I am not sure.

Cheers

Grrrrrr · Jul 18, 2017

neilly said:
Apparently it starts at 140Nm, tho what use that would be given the size of the beast I am not sure.

Cheers

I know where to come to check my hub-nuts now! And maybe the crank bolt should I ever take it off!

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
I know where to come to check my hub-nuts now! And maybe the crank bolt should I ever take it off!

Always welcome, Got a 3/4 drive breaker bar just in case I need to undo the D2 hubs as well, Tis why I got the torque wrench...

Cheers

Grrrrrr · Jul 18, 2017

neilly said:
Always welcome, Got a 3/4 drive breaker bar just in case I need to undo the D2 hubs as well, Tis why I got the torque wrench...

Cheers

Yeah, thought about getting 3/4" bar but then I'd need 3/4" sockets and they start getting expensive, especially as the hub nut has little clearance.

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
Yeah, thought about getting 3/4" bar but then I'd need 3/4" sockets and they start getting expensive, especially as the hub nut has little clearance.

Plus you cannot beat a decent length of scaffold pole....................always worth having in reserve.

Cheers

myfirstl322 · Jul 18, 2017

http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/downloads/TorqueValueGuide.pdf

I only use a TW for head bolts, everything else I just use my elbow sensor, and I've yet to break a bolt or strip a thread, but of importance is, I've never had anything break or come apart.
Hopefully that happened to the next owners, lol.

neilly · Jul 18, 2017

myfirstl322 said:
http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/downloads/TorqueValueGuide.pdf

There is a pdf , where they explain how having different "lubes" on the thread mean you have different thread stretch using a torque only tightening technique . Which is why you may find a torque specified plus an angular tightening stage to achieve a correct thread stretch.

Very interesting stuff.

Cheers

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

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