Had it to LR on Monday and they claim its the TC and they would change it for £3k
Spoke with a guy whos company deal in Auto box overhaul in cars and plant machinery.They will remove the box and overhaul for a similar price to LR and give a 2 year warranty.Also provide a courtesy car .
Have it booked in for May 2nd

Not a cheap fix but if it were mine i would only trust the view of a lr main dealer or an independent specialist in auto's. They would have both come across the fault many times, having worked a lot with vehicles fitted with auto's. You can easily get caught out with faults like this.

I have exactly this same issue with my 2010 FL2. I'm going to try cleaning/replacing the crank sensor, then I think I'll give Dr Tranny's a try and see what happens. My juddering went away for a couple of weeks after the AT oil was changed which makes me think it's not engine related but I'm trying all cheap/easy options before going too far down the TC replacement road. Does the FL2 require two 2oz tubes of Dr Tranny's?

I think the fact you have changed the ATF and a temporary removed the Juddering conludes the fault is likeley to be the box or TC.
I have changed the crank sensor for a new one and also fully change of ATF ( 7 ltr) and also added 1 shot Dr tranny and problem only fixed temporry.
Dr Tranny supposed to be good for 10 Ltr ATF I am lead to beleive .
Have mine booked in to Auto box specialist on the 2 nd May for diaognostics and removal of gear box for repair .
No faults showing when plugged in at LR dealear and they could say only think its TC.3k to change .
" Specialist " says it may not be TC and me be problem inside the box itself .

I'm having this exact issue with my 2014 Sd4. 131000 miles. It had a full fluid change at 72k miles then every 10k miles when changing engine oil I drop the 3L or so which comes out of the autobox drain and replace it meaning it's getting just under 1/2 fluid change every 10k.
My shuddering appeared while I was having egr valve problems and initially thought it was related to that. Indy changed egr valve and suggested changing cooler while in there which made sense. Car came back but juddering persisted. Took it back and they checked it but could find no explanation for fault. No codes showing when scanned and they confirmed new egr working perfectly.
My thought was an autobox issue but they didn't suggest this or even ask if it's ever had an autobox oil change.
So that's my plan for next weekend. 10L of 3324 atf and a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny ordered and I'll change the oil. Fingers crossed this solves it as I could do without a big bill. WBAC only value my Freelander at £3500 so pretty big chunk of its value, obviously worth more to me but I'm struggling to find anything more modern for a decent price that I'd actually like to own.

Have you checked for error codes?
Just my personal opinion but I'm not sure another oil change will help you here

I didn't use Dr Tranny's in the end. My engine had a major issue so I had to remove it from the car. While I had the engine out I pulled the TC out and sent it to Sussex Autos for a rebuild. They were brilliant! £250+VAT including collection, delivery and a new oil seal. They turned it around in 24 hours. When I got the car back together again it was like a brand new car!

Sussex Autos said it was a burned out lock-up plate which is really common in that particular TC.

The TC is obviously not the easiest of things to get at and it's debatable whether it's easier to remove the transfer box/AT or to remove the engine to get at it. I'd say if you haven't got a ramp it would be easier to pull the engine out. If you haven't done it before (and I hadn't) I reckon it would take a short day to get it out. Once it's out the TC just slips out of the housing, just make sure you've got a drip tray underneath.

I'm by no means a particularly experienced mechanic - I usually do discs, pads, oil changes etc - but I didn't find it too difficult to pull the engine out. Just take your time, Haynes was helpful and the help on here was invaluable at times. It's all pretty logical and if you get the ancillaries off the engine first there's quite a bit of room to manoeuvre it out.

Auto gearbox fluid doesn't need a complete change. Partual change is ok. Thats enough to top up the 'cleaners' in the fluid and give it some fresh fluid. The fluid doesn't get dirty like engine oil does.

Hippo said:

Auto gearbox fluid doesn't need a complete change. Partual change is ok. Thats enough to top up the 'cleaners' in the fluid and give it some fresh fluid. The fluid doesn't get dirty like engine oil does.

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Oil breaks down over time so needs changing on a schedule even if it doesn't look dirty.