Be aware that Dr Tranny works by making the clutch in the TC more slippery. Unfortunately a byproduct of this is it makes all the transmission clutches more likely to slip.
So you need to make sure that the transmission is thoroughly flushed out before the new TC goes in, or accelerated clutch wear will take place over time.

I am aware of what the fix does and will have the box fully flushed if I change the TC thank you.


You need to make sure that it's definitely not an engine borne vibration from a failing injector or crank sensor, as these can also cause issues that feel like the TC to an inexperienced technician.
Crank sensor changed .
Engine runs well as sweet as a nut when cruising down motorway at 70 mph 1800 rpm.
Vibration occurs at around 1500 rpm at varying speed and load .
Drop or increase rpm and vibration goes away.
Fairly sure its not engine related
 
Vibration occurs at around 1500 rpm at varying speed and load .
Drop or increase rpm and vibration goes away.
Fairly sure its not engine related

No, that's a classic symptom of TC clutch shudder. Unfortunately.
 
Just had a quote from an independant LR dealer to replace TQ 2.5k
Says TQ cost 1.5k then labour and fluid 1k
Anyone know who supplies TC ?
 
Are they changing just the torque converter or the whole auto?

FL2 auto's are made by Aisin. The early auto is a different model to the later one, from MY11 onwards if i remember correctly.
 
It does sound a lot. Its a full days work to remove the auto and fit it again with a different torque convertor doing it properly. New auto oil anorl.

Ring yer local main dealer and ask for the parts department. Give them yer vin number and ask for a price of an auto gearbox (comes with torque conveter) and a torque converter on its own. They will both be exchange units where yer buy one, then get a partual refund when yer give them yours. Use this as a quide price for a tested recon replacement, at the higher end of the price range.
 
It does sound a lot. Its a full days work to remove the auto and fit it again with a different torque convertor doing it properly. New auto oil anorl.

Ring yer local main dealer and ask for the parts department. Give them yer vin number and ask for a price of an auto gearbox (comes with torque conveter) and a torque converter on its own. They will both be exchange units where yer buy one, then get a partual refund when yer give them yours. Use this as a quide price for a tested recon replacement, at the higher end of the price range.
If it where only that simple .SD4 TC is 1800+ and not available .
Trying to get my local garage to take it out and send it away for recon.He is reluctant to do so due to lack of space to leave vehicle in his garage .Recon takes 3/5 days return and cost 400.Looking for an old one to send for recon but non available for SD4.Spent days trawling the internet .If anyone know who/where please tell me
 
If it where only that simple .SD4 TC is 1800+ and not available .
Trying to get my local garage to take it out and send it away for recon.He is reluctant to do so due to lack of space to leave vehicle in his garage .Recon takes 3/5 days return and cost 400.Looking for an old one to send for recon but non available for SD4.Spent days trawling the internet .If anyone know who/where please tell me
You will struggle to get a torque converter on its own at reasonable price. LR should have them available on an excange basis but they will charge top price. How far are you from the garage. Do you have space to store it while the torque converter goes for repair? Shift it to yours on a breakdown truck. Or your work. Or a friends place. There's a cost involved but its an option.
 
Hi,
Yes moving it to my house is an option as I live 2 minutes away from garage .
Are you aware of how much hardware has to be removed to remove the box and how much of it would need to go back to make the vehicle safe to move .
Will have a word with the garage in the morning see what they say .
Thank you
 
Hi,
Yes moving it to my house is an option as I live 2 minutes away from garage .
Are you aware of how much hardware has to be removed to remove the box and how much of it would need to go back to make the vehicle safe to move .
Will have a word with the garage in the morning see what they say .
Thank you
Access isn't easy to remove the auto enough to get the torque converter oft. You either turn the engine/auto/transter box diagonal, or remove it all as one lump. The later is the easier method if you have space and lifting kit. Either way theres a lot of stuff to disconnect. If they just need the car body moved then wheels back on is enough for it to go on a trailer or recovery truck, with a winch. Leave the engine/auto/transfer etc with them. Its a lot of messing about to move it for a week. I would allow a week as theres no guranteee of getting the torque converter back in 3 days. Depends what time of day they receive it and when they start work on it. Same for garage when they get it back.

The garage will be nervous of not getting the torque conveter back. They will want the space to fix other cars while waiting. Do they have somewhere outside they can push/park it or is there another garage or auto specialist you could use instead.
 
Hi,
Would you mind telling me the cost to have the TC replaced please .
Have same trouble and tried all the easier /cheaper options including Dr Tranny anti judder .
It worked for a couple months then started again but not as bad as before .
Thinking about changing TC now
Hi, I had the work done at an independent Freelander specialist. They used a genuine LR torque converter, £1449 + VAT. They charged for 6 hours labour. £570.
 
Hi
Thanks for your reply.
That would be service exchange with the old TC i guess.
6 hours to do the job is bloody good .Been told engine ,gearbox and transfer box have to come out .
I think may just get rid of it ,having a think
 
Just spoke to the boss of a reputable independant LR dealer .
He says he has never had to change a TC on an SD4 only on TD4.He thinks unlikely is the TC and suggests to do a fluid change and see what happens .I have the ATF so will take to a local garage who will dump and flush and add the ne fluid .
He has a pump to suck out all the old fluid .
 
All sorts of problems can be solved with an oil change. Its what i would do before having expensive bits changed.
 
The ATF was dumped and gear box flushed and new fluid installed ( LR022460R} less than 4k miles ago
There's no need to flush a gearbox. Auto gearbox manufacturers quote a partual change is best. The oil contains cleaners. It doesnt get dirty like engine oil.

What is the fault with yours? Have you had the codes read from the gearbox, engine and abs computers?
 
Not had it to LR yet as not been able to get it booked in .Its booked in for Monday .
Juddering from box at 1500/1600 rpm under load .Can increase or decrease rpm and juddering goes away .
I have a small hand held code reader and had RAC take a look and no faults showing .
See what LR have to say
 

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