landyman2005

New Member
following yesterdays blend motor bodge and subsequent lack of problems with the reconnecting of the battery etc, i was feeling kinda smug till my missus rang me and said "it wouldnt lock with the fob i so locked it with the key and now its saying engine immobilised press button on fob":doh:..........nothing happening while pressing the fob except little red light comes on and flashes, tried to enter the eka code and wouldnt accept it, tried to re-sync the fob (hold lock button while locking and vice versa) still no joy, wound the drivers window down to see wether the side light was flashing in time with the eka and as i turned it 4 times anti clock to acces the eka the window started winding up and the central locking clunked open and bingo we're away!!!!!!!! trouble is it still wont lock on the fob and i dont want to turn the key because of the above...... i need to re-sync the fob i think? but doing that puts me in tha same situation as above...... dunno what to do??
 
What year is it....

Pre-99 you have to Turn the Key to LOCK then press LOCK button....Then Turn Key to UNLOCK and press UNLOCK button....open Door start vehicle.

Post-99 the sync is down just by placing in inginition and starting the vehicle.....

That being said, my '99 DSE when I disconnected the battery, I did the sync just by using the ignition, but still didn't want to remote lock/unlock...so I did the key in door lock and turning thing as per the pre-99 and it worked....

The BeCM to Engine ECU re-sync using the SyncMate tool is only for the Immobiliser side and not the remote central locking side.

As per the post above...if the RF is iffy, you could struggle.

Hope you get it sorted.
 
its a 2000my BUT a lot of the stickers parts etc have 99 dates on them... the key in ignition sync did not work, just very reluctant to try the key in the door sync as if it doesnt work then i'm back to being immobilised!
 
Just another thought.....

There is a microswitch on the door mech, if this is faulty then the CL won't lock the rest of the doors, nor will the EKA code be registered, or key sync be recognised (as the BeCM won't know when the lock is being turned)
 
I believe the Microswitch is contained in the door latch and locking mechanism....a bit of a pig to get to....

Never done it nor been behind the door panel myself, maybe a kind soul on here has and can point you in a better direction of how to get at it and inspect it.
 
If when locked with the key all doors locked micro switch is working. Try putting key in ignition turning to position two and pressing buttons on fob.
 
nope that didnt work wammers, when she locked it on the key it locked all the doors but when i put the key in and turned it it only unlocked the drivers door.... kinda reluctant to try the key in the door re-sync as i can drive it at the minute
 
feckin POS....................... it now says key code lock out, i tried the eka code in the door and the sidelight symbol is not flashing at every turn of the key....
 
Me thinks Microswitch is kerputt....if it isn't recognising the inputs, and the CL isn't working with the key in the door....
 
and it gets worse... it now will not unlock the drivers door at all. the sidelight symbol will flash occaisionly to the left and not at all to the right. time to burn it methinks
 
Sounds like a new door lock required. Unless it's just something stuck and mucky.
 
Oh Dear.....

Erm is it time for the 'Brixton Key' or (depending on which side of the river your on) the 'Tottenham Key'??

Hint, is is about 215x105x85, weighs around 3lb, light reddish brown/terracota in colour, made from London Clay and is very useful for getting into cars, homes, shop windows and factories.......

Sounds like the entire mechanism is kerputt....

I have no knowledge on such things, The Wammer, Datatek and indeed Enery8 (as he has just fixed his handle mech) will know more about how to inspect it , once you get it open that is..!!!
 
Drivers door lock is master lock it works all the others, sounds like it's gone tits up. Lesson here is when buggering about with locks ALWAYS wind a window down first. Bit too late for that now though.
 
When I had to put in the EKA code into my 95 I had to arse around a fair bit.

Final proceedure that worked was to put the key in the ingnition till it came up with the engine imobilised message.

take out the key and hop out.

Do the 4 turns to the left and look for the indicators and carry on inputing the code. Mine did not flash anything on the dash or the indicators after the initial 4 turns to the left.

After inputing the code, put the key in the ignition turn it to 2 and leave it for 10 or so minutes then start it. If it does, put the key in the door and do the lock hold button, then unlock hold unlock to sunc the key. Thats the only way that worked for me although it took a few attempt to get the EKA input correctly.
 
When I had to put in the EKA code into my 95 I had to arse around a fair bit.

Final proceedure that worked was to put the key in the ingnition till it came up with the engine imobilised message.

take out the key and hop out.

Do the 4 turns to the left and look for the indicators and carry on inputing the code. Mine did not flash anything on the dash or the indicators after the initial 4 turns to the left.

After inputing the code, put the key in the ignition turn it to 2 and leave it for 10 or so minutes then start it. If it does, put the key in the door and do the lock hold button, then unlock hold unlock to sunc the key. Thats the only way that worked for me although it took a few attempt to get the EKA input correctly.

thats all well and good if you can get in the ****ing vehicle.
 
well the AA are dealing with it now, they told me that they could get into any vehicle so we'll see what happens! drivers door lock is buggered thats why it wont open/unlock or let me do anything with it. if i can get in it i can fit a new door lock mech than start the re sync process again.
 
after 5 hrs, a heap of phone calls, numerous cups of tea and no fewer than 3 AA men they still can't get in... however we managed to get the drivers window down 3" and then managed to get the key in the ignition and switched it on and managed to get the window all the way down BUT the stoopid idiot broke the key in the lock.....grrrrrr so im now able to get in thru the window so i should be able to get the trim off and smash the lock as per the links in another thread
 

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