jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Used to use cheap unipart turbo D oil with slick 50
Andy even raced until one seized up due tot the radiator bursting got back in end of the day and it fired up and run. Kept doing the same ever since
Andy even raced until one seized up due tot the radiator bursting got back in end of the day and it fired up and run. Kept doing the same ever since
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
We run particular additives in all the oils reduces breakages especially in diffs
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Oil additive, like STP.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Some people say sñake oil
U know me I'm a pikey and won't pay for something i don't think is worthwhile. It's worked well in every motor
U know me I'm a pikey and won't pay for something i don't think is worthwhile. It's worked well in every motor
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
We get 25 l jobbies u will probably get 100l
Saltlick
Well-Known Member
I can safely say that using Triple QX Fully Synthetic EP 75W90 in the diffs and transfer box with the correct amount of ZX1 extralube is fantastic, along with Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80 fully synthetic MTF in the gearbox - on my tdi it has made a huge difference. It's a bit like taking the handbrake off!
I stuck some ZX1 in the engine too a few months ago and it's made a lot of difference to the noise and runs along a little more easily now (on veg oil or diesel). A friend of mine with a V8 110 added some to his and got a few extra MPG. Reading the hype in the leaflets they talk about not adding PTFE or Moly, because they can clog things, and from my shooting background I know that moly isn't a good addition to carbon steel when there's moisture around such as found inside an engine as condensation.
Having read some horror stories about blockages with PTFE additives in the engines, I know I won't add any from now on.
I know the same arguments about snake oil apply, but I've tried it and have tried to remain objective about the stuff.
If I'm feeling a placebo effect, it's got to be very minor because my fuel consumption is lower as well as the engine noise.
All small gains I know, but why not!
Saltlick
Well-Known Member
Give Opie Oils a email/call - they put me onto the Fuchs Sintofluid MTF (among other MTF's) and were the cheapest I could find for it on ebay or elsewhere. The tripleQX was my idea after extensive searching and found a good deal in the form of 1x5L and 1X1L from two different sellers on ebay..
KillaJoules
Active Member
The only thing I ever slick 50d was my 2a gearbox which promptly gave up 3 days later, but in actual fact it had had a hard life behind the d4.203.
That said slick 50 is formulated for engines, my brother swore by it for many years in many engines, so I am a bit bemused by all this naysaying.
That said this could be the anecdotal evidence of experience so I shall sit on the fence
If it does absorb moisture, then as the RRC will be standing a lot probably a bad idea. Standard oil should do
That said slick 50 is formulated for engines, my brother swore by it for many years in many engines, so I am a bit bemused by all this naysaying.
That said this could be the anecdotal evidence of experience so I shall sit on the fence
If it does absorb moisture, then as the RRC will be standing a lot probably a bad idea. Standard oil should do
Saltlick
Well-Known Member
I think they make a gearbox version too? Dunno, I won't use it now. If you think about it, Slick50 PTFE is just a finely ground/chopped solid - it's what goretex is made from, or the same as plumbers tape but very fine. The ZX1 gear is apparently miscible oil that uses the 'host' fluid as a carrier only to get to the metal.
The moisture comment is about Moly though - it doesn't absorb it moisture, but when moisture is present and mixed with Moly, it will attack steel surfaces and etch/corrode them.
Here's a good explanation and some tests:
Varmint Al's Handloading/Reloading Page
The moisture comment is about Moly though - it doesn't absorb it moisture, but when moisture is present and mixed with Moly, it will attack steel surfaces and etch/corrode them.
Here's a good explanation and some tests:
Varmint Al's Handloading/Reloading Page
stutab
Well-Known Member
Tinkering time again 
Started by mounting the AFM bracket and bolting all of the electricky bits onto it.
As you can see I had to put in on a grinder diet to fit around the turret
I then fitted one of the AFM's I have. I know that this one works and came with this engine.
I have a question though
Can anybody tell me where this wire goes to?
It comes out of the relay and into a spade connector. Same on the other systems I have just can't remember where it goes.
Need a few bits before I can do much else in the engine bay so I moved onto the fuel tank.
Feel like Im going backwards not forward, I am looking forward to bolting the floor down for good.
Time to see where the tank fits
I hoped that it would fit on the front bolts and I would need to make a bracket for the rear fixing, but no, need a bracket both ends :censored:
Best get on with fabricating something. At least the bolt holes are lined up but just in the wrong place so I 5 holes in a line, 3 for the chassis and 2 for the cradle. Nice bit of ally angle should do the job
Couple of coats of etch primer and some spray paint I had laying about to stop it corroding and it should work a treat.
Couldn't fit it as the paint was still wet and I couldn't find any nuts to fit the welded studs. Right shopping time
Nice to know a place you can walk into and get a bag of AF nuts and bolts off the shelf
He couldn't help with the clutch unions so went to a local ag stealership, they were great with the wax seal as it was old stock but no help with the clutch unions, and when I asked about oil they wanted to steel £87 per 20l :wtf::5bsvengo::screaming_bug_eye_f This bloke should work for the government :bolt:
They referred me to another motor factors for the clutch bits, no joy there so went to KLLR and with a bit of digging they found some and cost a whole £2
If anybody has these keep hold, they are not easy to find.
More fun tomorrow
Started by mounting the AFM bracket and bolting all of the electricky bits onto it.
As you can see I had to put in on a grinder diet to fit around the turret
I then fitted one of the AFM's I have. I know that this one works and came with this engine.
I have a question though
Can anybody tell me where this wire goes to?
It comes out of the relay and into a spade connector. Same on the other systems I have just can't remember where it goes.
Need a few bits before I can do much else in the engine bay so I moved onto the fuel tank.
Feel like Im going backwards not forward, I am looking forward to bolting the floor down for good.
Time to see where the tank fits
I hoped that it would fit on the front bolts and I would need to make a bracket for the rear fixing, but no, need a bracket both ends
:censored: Best get on with fabricating something. At least the bolt holes are lined up but just in the wrong place
so I 5 holes in a line, 3 for the chassis and 2 for the cradle. Nice bit of ally angle should do the job
Couple of coats of etch primer and some spray paint I had laying about to stop it corroding and it should work a treat.
Couldn't fit it as the paint was still wet and I couldn't find any nuts to fit the welded studs. Right shopping time
Nice to know a place you can walk into and get a bag of AF nuts and bolts off the shelf
He couldn't help with the clutch unions so went to a local ag stealership, they were great with the wax seal as it was old stock but no help with the clutch unions, and when I asked about oil they wanted to steel £87 per 20l :wtf::5bsvengo::screaming_bug_eye_f This bloke should work for the government :bolt:
They referred me to another motor factors for the clutch bits, no joy there so went to KLLR and with a bit of digging they found some and cost a whole £2
If anybody has these keep hold, they are not easy to find.
More fun tomorrow
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Looking good stu!
Never had probs with molyslip grand never broken a diff even being a #### spinning up wheels engine I will use it it works for me. It's going in all my engines as its proved its worth in all our vehicles.
Never had probs with molyslip grand never broken a diff even being a #### spinning up wheels engine I will use it it works for me. It's going in all my engines as its proved its worth in all our vehicles.
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
No yabbadabbadoo ?
