Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #1

Good Morning,


Thinking of performing a timing/cam belt renewal,

Bought my D1 with 230k of the clock, its had a replacement engine in at somepoint by looking at the paperwork,

The engine though is of unknown mileage,

Should I follow the Haynes manual for my D1 (not that I've looked at it yet), should note I've never done one of these before.

So, is there anything else I should be looking at ?

Already got a replacement water pump and aux belt tensioner (springs buggered) plus a rocket & P gasket coming,

 

Almonds

Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #2

I'm doing the timing belt in a couple weeks time.

Purchased this to help with the job. Was the cheapest and most comprehensive kit I could find. Don't like the idea of paying twice the cost of a new timing belt kit for just one of the tools required for the job!

Also, slowly slowly catchee monkey.

Alm.

Edit: I have also bought at least one spare of each stud/bolt/nut for the job, and new crank seals -will let you know how it goes once done.

 

Last edited: Jun 16, 2014

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #3

thankfully its not my main drive,

If need be it can be left standing for a few weeks,

Might need to buy that kit yet, who knows !

 

tetsu0san

Active Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #4

Is it a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi?

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #5

300,

As long as nothing specialist isnt needed I think I can muddle my way though

 

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

• Jun 16, 2014

• #6

Pikeys gotta timing belt kit I spect you can borrow

 

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #7

Get new long bolts for the water pump as they normally corrode (and they are cheap)

Also get the correct spanner for the viscous fan if it is fitted

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #8

Will see what state everything is in lol,

Pikey may well be getting a call from me, that or I may try to raise him on the CB (now that its here)

My main fear is that I put something back wrong,

Also I realised I didnt order a gasket for the timing cover, so its going to have to wait at least a week,

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2014

• #9

You also may want to look at how you are going to tension the new belt, have a look on Youtube there are a few good vids on there, look for landrover toolbox on there.

 

Almonds

Member

• Jul 8, 2014

• #10

Almonds said:

I'm doing the timing belt in a couple weeks time.

Purchased this to help with the job. Was the cheapest and most comprehensive kit I could find. Don't like the idea of paying twice the cost of a new timing belt kit for just one of the tools required for the job!

Also, slowly slowly catchee monkey.

Alm.

Edit: I have also bought at least one spare of each stud/bolt/nut for the job, and new crank seals -will let you know how it goes once done.

Click to expand...

Did this over the weekend. I'd suggest you print out a picture of the front cover and label the bolt holes, then do the same with the bolts as they are all different lengths. Personally, I had some major issues with removing crank pulley bolt. Tried the usual method: fuel solenoid disconnect and using starter in conjunction with breaker bar on chassis, but didn't want to go! Tried heating / cooling, still didn't work. In the end, had to fashion up a bit of flanged pipe, bolted this on with the 4 M8 holes and wedged a big pipe wrench on it and the chassis- that seemed to do the trick.

The tool kit was pretty good, all bolts are 8.8 so not great, but it all worked and fitted as required. Very impressed for <£30. Would recommend.

NB: I'm not affiliated to the seller.

Alm.

 

Boris113

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #11

This is a good guide to any 300tdi engine work http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf

If you dont have access to a printer etc then you can use a piece of cardboard and draw the shape of the timing chest, then push the bolts through the drawing in the correct places.

Almonds that is a good link, just ordered one myself

 

Last edited: Jul 9, 2014

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #12

Just need to be aware that that covers the old style tensioner, I think the torque that you apply to tension the belt has also been dropped to something like 11Nm (please double check and don't take my word for that as its been a while since I did mine)

 

R

reiny

Active Member

• Jul 11, 2014

• #13

yep. 11nm is correct.

 

Almonds

Member

• Jul 14, 2014

• #14

reiny said:

yep. 11nm is correct.

Click to expand...

Second that, 11 Nm is correct.

Boris113 said:

Almonds that is a good link, just ordered one myself

Click to expand...

No probs, hope it works for you as well as it did for me... would just say, be careful with the puller bolts, I wouldn't trust the 8.8 rating at that price!

Alm.

 

Last edited: Jul 14, 2014

kes86

Active Member

• Jul 14, 2014

• #15

Nip up the right hand tensioner (or top) bolt and make sure the lower tensioner is free to pivot before final tightening of belt and torquing up. I managed to nip the pivot plate behind the bearing leaving it sat out too far, and the belt moved across and shredded, causing bent pushrods and a snapped follower. Pump timing seems the most critical part, have a look on YouTube at the trailer fitter guides, should help.