My old next door neighbour used to use his welder a bit like this to thaw out frozen cast iron downpipes.
Must admit , due to lack of knowledge with regards to welding didn’t realise the chassis would twist like that
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
Stick can be
[QUOTE="DanClarke, post: 5308596, member: 29470"
I've got some "issues" with welding as I have a dodgy eye and seeing and keeping to the welding line is a real challenge for me.
I started out on MIG (an elderly Clarke 105A unit) but I found it a bit like tring to aim an angry cat and a bit "spray & pray".[/QUOTE]
If you struggle keeping to the line you can sometimes use a marker pen to draw lines as a reference. Draw a single line over where you want to weld or parallel lines one each side of the weld. Not always easy with rusty steel but if it is clean enough it can work.
[QUOTE="DanClarke, post: 5308596, member: 29470"
I've got some "issues" with welding as I have a dodgy eye and seeing and keeping to the welding line is a real challenge for me.
I started out on MIG (an elderly Clarke 105A unit) but I found it a bit like tring to aim an angry cat and a bit "spray & pray".[/QUOTE]
If you struggle keeping to the line you can sometimes use a marker pen to draw lines as a reference. Draw a single line over where you want to weld or parallel lines one each side of the weld. Not always easy with rusty steel but if it is clean enough it can work.
My old next door neighbour used to use his welder a bit like this to thaw out frozen cast iron downpipes.
u saying that reminds me when I was an apprentice and being taught how to pour a lead joint on cast iron , including the extreme dangers from explosions when lead is heated and turns to a liquid state of never throwing water into the lead pot
Don't knock it. If you've clamped it properly then each hole has a perfect weld all around the rim. TUR126M, a Renault 5, had its front inner wing panels attached like that. Stronger than a strong thing, but I have got better at it.
Scotch543
Active Member
I've been using a Clarke 151En for like 15 years on various projects mainly Landys. Learnt to weld with flux core which was fun. Alot of my projects have all been outside so flux core was handy.
Ran it on full size gas bottles with a reg kit etc.. welded really well was ideal for chassis work and I was able to do body work repairs.
But wasnt a fan of the push fit fittings and turned out for good reason was using alot of gas and found it was leaking through that fitting.
So bought a Euro Torch Conversion, and never fitted it and left in garage for years. I have alot of welding to do on my disco so I'll be converting it in next few months I'll put a write up on here.
Ran it on full size gas bottles with a reg kit etc.. welded really well was ideal for chassis work and I was able to do body work repairs.
But wasnt a fan of the push fit fittings and turned out for good reason was using alot of gas and found it was leaking through that fitting.
So bought a Euro Torch Conversion, and never fitted it and left in garage for years. I have alot of welding to do on my disco so I'll be converting it in next few months I'll put a write up on here.
It is a shame that TIG gas is Pure Argon and MIG gas is a CO2/Argon mix (means 2 bottles, one for each type of welding) or you can use Flux-Cored MIG wire and just chip off the slag from the welds and not use gas shielding when Mig welding. Stick (as you know) provides its own shielding gases via the coating on the rods.
My TIG machine came with both a low-amps (c.100A max) torch for use with 1.6mm filler rods and another heavier torch for the full 160A and 2.4 or 3.2mm filler rods.
I prefer the lighter, smaller torch, but you can burn them out if you do too much high-current welding. Luckily my bike projects don't go above 90A and often sit down at about 60 and are all short duration runs.
If I was doing car chassis/repair welding I would use MIG in preference for convenience, but I do find for benchtop welding that TIG is much more controllable.
But that's just me.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Looking at the wonderful world of electrodes and filler rods at the moment, the usual conflicting arguments for one over the other depending on your viewpoint on whatever forum or sales team you are on.
I have ordered some 316L filer rods for the 304L exhaust mods I am going to do but need to also get the right electrodes for this, as well as electrodes/filler rods for alloy motorbike casings and mild steel.
I want to have it all in the shed so when I want to use it on whatever I can but it seems its not as straightforward as I thought it might be, and the current small consumable order I made with the welder has just be "destroyed" by Hermes and a replacement will need to be sent
I have ordered some 316L filer rods for the 304L exhaust mods I am going to do but need to also get the right electrodes for this, as well as electrodes/filler rods for alloy motorbike casings and mild steel.
I want to have it all in the shed so when I want to use it on whatever I can but it seems its not as straightforward as I thought it might be, and the current small consumable order I made with the welder has just be "destroyed" by Hermes and a replacement will need to be sent
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Zed.
Well-Known Member
Toys arrived this morning, I love new toys
Still awaiting the consumables I ordered and I need a gas bottle but will play around and put everything together over the next few days.
View attachment 256460 View attachment 256461
be interested to hear your opinion on this, I've just hit the button on an R-tech AC/DC 210A DIGITAL - TIG 210EXT as I've been constantly drawn to it's functions etc. & theres a 10% discount on their website
also they have some reduced price 'shop-soiled' sets so more savings
https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/tig-welder-ac-dc-210a-digital-tig-210ext-shop-soiled
thats much of a minefield as guesswork or personal preference also come into it with gas-lenses etc. as to filler-rods, sellers and manufacturers will have details on the websites or if collecting in person should be able to recomend
although, for mma (arc / stick) welding steels try 6013 and 7018 as a starting point (my 'go-to' electrode is 7018 and thats for evrything if I can help it
)Rich.
Purely personal view as an owner of an R-Tech 161 AC/DC TIG (bought it in 2017 and it works well).
I think you have to balance up between buying cheaper IGBT welders and treating them as disposable consumables and replacing them, or buy a brand with a service organisation behind it.
R-Tech is good kit with an excellent after-sales service. They really do a good job to keep you welding.
I think you have to balance up between buying cheaper IGBT welders and treating them as disposable consumables and replacing them, or buy a brand with a service organisation behind it.
R-Tech is good kit with an excellent after-sales service. They really do a good job to keep you welding.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
My suggestion is to be observant and perhaps try different products of the same specifications. Also be aware of the condition of the metal you are trying to weld:- Dirt / old rust proofing goo / rust can make a massive difference particularly in areas that are difficult to clean.Looking at the wonderful world of electrodes and filler rods at the moment, the usual conflicting arguments for one over the other depending on your viewpoint on whatever forum or sales team you are on.
I have ordered some 316L filer rods for the 304L exhaust mods I am going to do but need to also get the right electrodes for this, as well as electrodes/filler rods for alloy motorbike casings and mild steel.
I want to have it all in the shed so when I want to use it on whatever I can but it seems its not as straightforward as I thought it might be, and the current small consumable order I made with the welder has just be "destroyed" by Hermes and a replacement will need to be sent
If you are welding castings you will probably need to pre-heat castings and in some cases will need to wrap parts in fire proof blankets to slow cooling and help stop cracking. In short, if you haven't got oxygen + fuel enhanced heating capabilities you will be introduced to another rather expensive world (!)
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I do have a domestic oven in the workshop I use for curing powdercoat and caliper paints, since the only castings I expect I will ever weld are alloy motorcycle castings that don't like being heated above 170C then I should be alright without spending more.
Still awaiting my consumables ordered with the welder, apparently they were sent by Hermes who have managed to "destroy them" and they are having to be replaced
so I haven't sorted gas yet as I can't do anything yet. Got a storage ox and the welder is under the bench awaiting some use.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I did consider the R Tech, got an R tech plasma cutter. However the dice landed on Parweld for me this time. The prices were comparable as the R Tech comes with a pedal if I remember right and mine didn't but if I add it they were much the same price.
this landed today, I'll try to source gas tomorrow then can play
Rich.
I am still awaiting the packet of consumables arriving then I'll go get gas. Be interested to see how you get on with yours. I certainly have a few jobs lining up to have a go with.
Zed.
Well-Known Member
to be honest, I don't want a pedal but it was included - I chose based on the controlls as they seemed slightly easier to me
Rich.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I made a few calls today and it seems that low level use it is better to use Hobbyweld for cost.
Still not sure though as pressures seem to be lower and the more refills you need the more it sways back to BOC. I think I will keep my BOC account for Argoshield for the moment as I have 2/4rd cylinder left and pay the annual rental (hobbywelder BOC account so about half normal cost) and get a hobbyweld cylinder for the TIG. I'll then see how long a cylinder lasts and work out from there how often I will need one and either stay with Hobbyweld or get one from BOC and hand the hobbyweld back.
I have a couple of weeks before I have time to do anything with it anyway so not in a massive hurry at the mo.
Still not sure though as pressures seem to be lower and the more refills you need the more it sways back to BOC. I think I will keep my BOC account for Argoshield for the moment as I have 2/4rd cylinder left and pay the annual rental (hobbywelder BOC account so about half normal cost) and get a hobbyweld cylinder for the TIG. I'll then see how long a cylinder lasts and work out from there how often I will need one and either stay with Hobbyweld or get one from BOC and hand the hobbyweld back.
I have a couple of weeks before I have time to do anything with it anyway so not in a massive hurry at the mo.
