flat · Aug 21, 2020

Well that was much easier than I thought ....
Weather isn’t great outside so have been working on dismantling the draught eye.

The big bolt and the pin didn’t put up as much fight as I was expecting.... drilled out the pin and used stilsons to get it moving....

Will clean, paint assemble and grease.

Still need to find a suitable rubber washer for between the two metal washers - atleast now I can measure properly and see if I can find something... I was thinking nitrile maybe?

rob1miles · Aug 21, 2020

Does your reversing collar have the gauge for the brakes on it? Mine looks to be too short. I've been experimenting with setting up the brakes and its a fine line between getting them working right on tow but then still locked out when the collar is fitted.

flat · Aug 22, 2020

rob1miles said:
Does your reversing collar have the gauge for the brakes on it? Mine looks to be too short. I've been experimenting with setting up the brakes and its a fine line between getting them working right on tow but then still locked out when the collar is fitted.

i do, and the gauge bit measures 34.6mm on the vernier, but i dont know if mine is worn at all, i suspect not by much if it is.

rob1miles · Aug 23, 2020

Very helpfull, I'll set mine to that. Took my drums off and its clear that for some time only one brake was working as its worn more than the other, now its all free and they both work fine, I suspect linkage was stuck.

flat · Aug 23, 2020

rob1miles said:
Very helpfull, I'll set mine to that. Took my drums off and its clear that for some time only one brake was working as its worn more than the other, now its all free and they both work fine, I suspect linkage was stuck.

cool when you do can you post photos of the inside of the drums please, would be a good reference point for me when i take mine apart

rob1miles · Aug 23, 2020

Wheels back on now and then my jack broke...after wasting 2 hours trying to fix it and swearing about how rubbish it was I reasiled I had it close to 40 years. New one ordered.
Re the brakes, they are well made with ally adjusters and actuators that respond well to some penetrating oil so I would do it that way, just take the drum off and not take the shoes off. I still haven't found a definative answer as to what shoes they are. 10" is all I know.

flat · Aug 24, 2020

rob1miles said:
Wheels back on now and then my jack broke...after wasting 2 hours trying to fix it and swearing about how rubbish it was I reasiled I had it close to 40 years. New one ordered.
Re the brakes, they are well made with ally adjusters and actuators that respond well to some penetrating oil so I would do it that way, just take the drum off and not take the shoes off. I still haven't found a definative answer as to what shoes they are. 10" is all I know.

I *think* the shoes are 109 front pads?

you can get shoes relined. I am hoping mine still have meat on them and aren’t contaminated with oil etc

flat · Aug 24, 2020

Okay first part of the trailer rebuilt.

the draught eye. Big heavy bastid of a thing, but amazingly simple to strip and rebuild (considering parts aren’t available!)

stripped, cleaned and replaced a missing buffer and a missing O ring seal, then rust treated with fertan and etch primed.

Ready for another 50 years use

flat · Sep 2, 2020

Slow plodding work, have rebuilt/binned or removed a few more bits

Have cleaned, rust treated and painted in primer the front light holders and some
Handbrake parts

and I have made a rank soup of small bits in a tub with paint stripper.... will clean these up and prime them this weekend.

wireman · Sep 2, 2020

rob1miles said:
Wheels back on now and then my jack broke...after wasting 2 hours trying to fix it and swearing about how rubbish it was I reasiled I had it close to 40 years. New one ordered.
Re the brakes, they are well made with ally adjusters and actuators that respond well to some penetrating oil so I would do it that way, just take the drum off and not take the shoes off. I still haven't found a definative answer as to what shoes they are. 10" is all I know.

Reference the shoes, I'm fairly sure they are series 3 10" shoes. Check with ' rover65' on the EMLRA link I sent you. He replaced all parts with new iirc.

flat · Sep 4, 2020

Dramatic day in the world of ‘Sankey rebuilds’

I threw half of it away......

got paid £8 which is about what I spent on slitting discs....

flat · Sep 10, 2020

bit more progress, stripped the axle off the chassis and got the hand brake stripped and painted and back together again. Also got the front light markers painted - these are a bit ropey and but still serviceable.

Slowly making progress.....

brake actuator stripped and painted, and a couple bits replaced and put back together! The pad the draught eye pushes against needs some weld building up on it which will do this weekend, or get a mate to turn me a new one.

The chassis in bits

getting there......

rob1miles · Sep 12, 2020

Get that scrap tub back: You'll need that reversed angle to edge the tailgate!
Re shoes, they are 10" but I think they are narrower than a series brake, I've done a lot of searching and despite lots of claims that they fit something else they look like a special to me.
This link will give you the part numbers:
https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/sankey-3-4-ton-trailer-brake-shoe-set-2530997330386.html

flat · Sep 12, 2020

rob1miles said:
Get that scrap tub back: You'll need that reversed angle to edge the tailgate!
Re shoes, they are 10" but I think they are narrower than a series brake, I've done a lot of searching and despite lots of claims that they fit something else they look like a special to me.
This link will give you the part numbers:
https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/sankey-3-4-ton-trailer-brake-shoe-set-2530997330386.html

nah got a second tub that’s in better condition (only needs small amount of welding)

Cool thanks for the link - I think my shoes are okay, and there are a couple of places that will re-line them if needed. I was more worried the actuators would be unserviceable!

the rubber boots that fit on the back of the brake back plate over the adjuster rod - a brake linkage rubber from an MG TF fits
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-TF-MGF-MG-Gear-Change-Cable-Rubber-JOINT-END-SEALING-GAITERS-NEW-PAIR/122066392968

flat · Sep 18, 2020

Did a bit more. Mostly stripped the axle, springs are actually fine, now I have bashed them about and oiled them a bit.

managed to get the drums off - amazingly they came off easily and the internals are all fine and in much better than I thought they would be! tbh, they just need a clean and degrease, But have stripped them all off for cleaning and painting! Not going to spray the axle, I am grinding back any rust and I am going to fertan treat and then a few coats of chassis black. Eventually when it’s all together the underneath will all get schutz’d or something.

flat · Sep 29, 2020

Not a huge amount done recently. Just more dismantling. It’s all totally apart now though.

Started on refurbing the axle, dismantled the side with the play in the wheel bearing to find that it is all in good order, just wasn’t adjusted properly, bit of a clean and new grease and will be good!!

and about the only bit of the chassis that needs welding, quite pleased. This should be an easy fix, otherwise under the under seal it’s all otherwise very good.

flat · Oct 25, 2020

havent updated recently and hadnt realised the photos were ginormous, sorry all. Posted from a mobile :/

Chassis is all stripped, and the rust cut out (2 areas) ready for plating. All surface rust ground back and treated, ready for paint. Undersal that was loose all removed, that which is super stuck, has been left.

Axle and brakes and linkages are completely rebuilt now. As are a bunch of fittings (light holders, cleats etc). Leaf springs were actually really good, so just cleaned, new bushes in the linkages (disco roll bar polybushes cut down

)

axle being rust treated and painted, only photos from one side lol, i did them one side at a time so i always had a reference.

Hubs and bearings were fine, just needed a clean and regrease

Axle being assembled

Brake shoes were okay

finished axle and linkage assembly

flat · Oct 25, 2020

Also managed to get hold of this Bradley jockey wheel. I know narrow tracks didn’t have a jockey wheel but the front leg is bent and they are unobtainable for sensible money.
So I brought a ‘good condition’ jockey wheel as fitted to the wide track Sankeys. Turns out it was totally shagged though, and as Bradley have been brought out by alko it was hard to find parts....

Needed a new thrust bearing, a total strip and a new top knob. Also the wheel bearing was partially shagged but it cleaned up okay enough to reuse :/ Managed to find the bearing kit but not a top handle yet.

before

Cleaning and repainting

Once all the paint is dry I will reassemble

flat · Oct 26, 2020

And jockey wheel assembled, and the brake relay linkage

flat · Nov 2, 2020

On the home stretch now. Just this bundle of parts to paint and then the 2 rear legs to paint and that’s the parts all done.

just the chassis to weld up, steel is ordered and the chassis is on the dry and prepped for welding then it can be all bolted back together and the wiring done.

Then it’s on to the tub itself....

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