Datatek
Well-Known Member
Why the crank bolt? No need to touch the crank to adjust the FIP timing.
Easy to mod the fuse box for the third fuel pump circuit, just a 1N4005 diode needed.
Easy to mod the fuse box for the third fuel pump circuit, just a 1N4005 diode needed.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
They don't turn faster, the mapping doesn't accept the engine has started until a slightly higher rpm.
Francesco M.
Member
the RAVE says to change the cam bolt and if I'm not mistaken also the crank bolt, in addition to the 14 head screws. I only have the new cylinder head screws, I couldn't find the one for the cams, and looking at it it's not damaged, so I'll reuse it. it has a pair of "only" 50nm. the head screws on the other hand have a very high load
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Rimmer Bros sell the cam bolt. If you search my recent posts on coolant pressure I think I put the part number somewhere.
Francesco M.
Member
Thanks
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
Island 4x4 are a good source for parts for land rovers
Francesco M.
Member
This weekend I continued with the work, after having assembled the sump and the oil pump, I positioned the lower part of the chain and sprockets
then timing protection casing, I tightened the crankshaft bolt to the expected RAVE brute force, then water pump with metal impeller.
Finally the headboard is put on! In this positioning phase I struggled a lot to center the gasket and the centering bushes. Now the gym begins for the long tightening procedure.
After putting the belts in place, I go to measure the compression and here's the surprise, cylinder 2 and 3 no compression! You should know that I live in Umbria, the land of the Saints, everyone was called to order to solve the problem. Everyone got together and pointed out to me that I would have to dismantle the cylinder head again because when putting it in position with the camshaft mounted, I had clumsily bent two valves. So it's my fault alone, they say so but I have some doubts
The result of the day is
- sore right arm,
- two bent valves,
- unfinished work,
- canonical warning for foul language.
One way or another we will make it
then timing protection casing, I tightened the crankshaft bolt to the expected RAVE brute force, then water pump with metal impeller.
Finally the headboard is put on! In this positioning phase I struggled a lot to center the gasket and the centering bushes. Now the gym begins for the long tightening procedure.
After putting the belts in place, I go to measure the compression and here's the surprise, cylinder 2 and 3 no compression! You should know that I live in Umbria, the land of the Saints, everyone was called to order to solve the problem. Everyone got together and pointed out to me that I would have to dismantle the cylinder head again because when putting it in position with the camshaft mounted, I had clumsily bent two valves. So it's my fault alone, they say so but I have some doubts
The result of the day is
- sore right arm,
- two bent valves,
- unfinished work,
- canonical warning for foul language.
One way or another we will make it
Is the cylinder head perfectly flat with no distortion?
Francesco M.
Member
yes, the head has been tested with a rectified ruler and has no distortions. Same thing for the base.
aj1954
Well-Known Member
Foul language is par for the course, when working on cars!This weekend I continued with the work, after having assembled the sump and the oil pump, I positioned the lower part of the chain and sprocketsView attachment 335251
then timing protection casing, I tightened the crankshaft bolt to the expected RAVE brute force, then water pump with metal impeller.View attachment 335255
Finally the headboard is put on! In this positioning phase I struggled a lot to center the gasket and the centering bushes. Now the gym begins for the long tightening procedure.View attachment 335257
After putting the belts in place, I go to measure the compression and here's the surprise, cylinder 2 and 3 no compression! You should know that I live in Umbria, the land of the Saints, everyone was called to order to solve the problem. Everyone got together and pointed out to me that I would have to dismantle the cylinder head again because when putting it in position with the camshaft mounted, I had clumsily bent two valves. So it's my fault alone, they say so but I have some doubts
The result of the day is
- sore right arm,
- two bent valves,
- unfinished work,
- canonical warning for foul language.
One way or another we will make it
Francesco M.
Member
Hello Guys!
The new valves are slow to arrive, so I go on to solve other problems, replacing the passenger lock, the microswitches were out of order and the tailgate ground was broken. These were the conditions:
I then disconnected the RF antenna which drained the battery within a few days and replaced the dashboard. The one I had was completely cracked and deformed by the sun (summers are very hot in Umbria). It's a long and patient job but I did it
I still have to replace the ABS accumulator and bleed the brakes. I also have to resolve the SRS system anomaly (trw mps type 1), I have the warning light flashing and the nanocom gives the message :"RIVERS AIRBAG MEASURES OPEN CIRCUIT" (I imagine you mean rider?!?!?), turning it off with the Nanocom, this comes back immediately. I checked the connections from the front to the inside on the driver's side and they all seem ok, I didn't check the coil. It could also be the battery that died, this week I will get a Yuasa 110ah and repeat to turn it off. I'll keep you updated
The new valves are slow to arrive, so I go on to solve other problems, replacing the passenger lock, the microswitches were out of order and the tailgate ground was broken. These were the conditions:
I still have to replace the ABS accumulator and bleed the brakes. I also have to resolve the SRS system anomaly (trw mps type 1), I have the warning light flashing and the nanocom gives the message :"RIVERS AIRBAG MEASURES OPEN CIRCUIT" (I imagine you mean rider?!?!?), turning it off with the Nanocom, this comes back immediately. I checked the connections from the front to the inside on the driver's side and they all seem ok, I didn't check the coil. It could also be the battery that died, this week I will get a Yuasa 110ah and repeat to turn it off. I'll keep you updated
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That could just be the connecter under the drivers seat, common problem
Francesco M.
Member
No, mine is a type 1, it doesn't have connectors under the seat. The yellow cables only reach inside the dashboard. I think it only has two front airbags
Datatek
Well-Known Member
OK, no side airbags or pretensioner for the seat belt.
Francesco M.
Member
Exactly! before making further attempts I'll put in a new battery, it could also be due to the low voltage...
Francesco M.
Member
Hi everyone ! good and bad news. The good news is that the engine started almost immediately, the engine runs well, revs well (revved to 3,000rpm) and doesn't make strange sounds. The bad news is that it doesn't idle and only starts with the accelerator fully pressed, it emits a lot of black smoke. Now I suspect two problems: the first is the FIP actuator, I suspect it was removed by the previous workshop when the engine would not start and not put back in its position.
The second suspect is the pilot injector, the previous workshop cut the wire to dismantle it, I soldered it but it has two identical white wires, so I don't know if I put them back the right way. I will check how much diesel comes in after the filter as per the RAVE instructions, it started raining tonight and I wasn't able to do that. Now I have to study how the FIP cover works by moving it in its seats and I will do some tests. If I don't get the desired result, I'll try reversing the pilot injector wires. Unfortunately due to the desire to turn it on I forgot to take photos
. I'll update you!!
The second suspect is the pilot injector, the previous workshop cut the wire to dismantle it, I soldered it but it has two identical white wires, so I don't know if I put them back the right way. I will check how much diesel comes in after the filter as per the RAVE instructions, it started raining tonight and I wasn't able to do that. Now I have to study how the FIP cover works by moving it in its seats and I will do some tests. If I don't get the desired result, I'll try reversing the pilot injector wires. Unfortunately due to the desire to turn it on I forgot to take photos
. I'll update you!!
Disconnect the pilot injector first. It's possible the top on the fip is in the wrong place as you say. The moment you open it you'll understand where it needs to go. It's very easy to get it out of position 
Francesco M.
Member
are you saying to disconnect the pilot injector and see if there is a worsening or not? If the situation remains unchanged it would obviously be the injector that is the problem...
