That does sound like it's worth doing

I've spent all afternoon changing the dash, the old one had holes all over it , hopefully tomorrow I should get it finished and the mud dash installed

As I already have the 2nd battery it seems daft not to add it for £30

I'll try and work out what I need from your posts and get it ordered
 
This is my way of doing it all, I like to keep it all neat and tidy with a certain quality of work :D



Diagram for dual battery system:

Manual split charge.jpg



Heavy cabling for dual battery/aux fusebox input:

dual battery wiring.jpg



And the auxiliary fusebox / relay box:

aux fuse and relay box.jpg
 
There is a 12v fuse board available which I will be using on my project. It just needs a supply and has an led for each fuse to show if the fuse has blown. I think it should be handy for the extras I will have on the aux battery.
http://m.ebay.ie/itm/371021686450
 
MOB993 said:
See that now... How do you rate it? I'm waiting on mine..
Click to expand...

It's just a fuse box but the LED lighting is dependant on the type of circuit. They are quite cheap from CPC and they don't charge postage on internet orders.
 
Well the dash is almost in, I've replaced all the LR bits, the MuD Console is in I've just got to decide where I'm cutting the holes out

Played about with the existing wiring

Found a switched live, and 2 permanent lives one of which I assume is for the fag lighter, is it live all the time
 
The dash will have to come back out to feed the wiring through for the console etc so don't bolt it up to tight. I have all the bits ready that I spoke about have you sorted out your shopping list?
 
It's been put on hold for a bit, I've got a vibration coming from somewhere, think it's the prop but if it turns out to be something expensive I'll have to get that sorted because I'm not working at the minute so money is getting tight.

Thanks for looking in though , if you're still interested when I've found out what's wrong with it I'll drop you a PM :)
 
wack61 said:
It's been put on hold for a bit, I've got a vibration coming from somewhere, think it's the prop but if it turns out to be something expensive I'll have to get that sorted because I'm not working at the minute so money is getting tight.

Thanks for looking in though , if you're still interested when I've found out what's wrong with it I'll drop you a PM :)
Click to expand...

Which prop? Can you get it diagnosed over there or do you need a hand with that?
 
I think it's the front, arronmorris said the front UJ wasn't very good but it looks ok grabbing at it from underneath, can't see any play in it

TBH I'm not at all happy with how it drives, doesn't seem happy on the road somehow, one of the problems with buying an untaxed vehicle

What it could do with is somebody that knows how they drive to take it for a spin to see how it compares to theirs.

Having nothing to compare it to makes it difficult to pinpoint what it might be.
 
Cowasaki,
Looking at this thread has thrown up many possibilities for when I get round to doing my re-wire - your option of placing a 2nd fuse / relay box to the rear is a good one, but as I have 110 Truck Cab, I may have to think again - I don't want to really put a 2nd unit inside as there is so little space anyway.

One idea I did have prior to reading this thread, was to run a length of 20 or 25mm Copex flexible conduit along the inside of the rear bed here:
1525656_10152613346232868_3521652248315200311_n.jpg


What that then gives me is a protected and easy route front to back, that could be weather-proofed into an IPX box containing fuses / relays

(Ignore the crappy connections bottom left - this is one hell of a mess and missing any form of protection from the elements!)
 
JohnM70 said:
Cowasaki,
Looking at this thread has thrown up many possibilities for when I get round to doing my re-wire - your option of placing a 2nd fuse / relay box to the rear is a good one, but as I have 110 Truck Cab, I may have to think again - I don't want to really put a 2nd unit inside as there is so little space anyway.

One idea I did have prior to reading this thread, was to run a length of 20 or 25mm Copex flexible conduit along the inside of the rear bed here:
1525656_10152613346232868_3521652248315200311_n.jpg


What that then gives me is a protected and easy route front to back, that could be weather-proofed into an IPX box containing fuses / relays

(Ignore the crappy connections bottom left - this is one hell of a mess and missing any form of protection from the elements!)
Click to expand...

I'm currently designing a roof console that might be just up your street :D The fuse/relay box can go in the engine bay or behind the seats...

Possibly be doable putting an IPX box there... How big?
 
wack61 said:
I think it's the front, arronmorris said the front UJ wasn't very good but it looks ok grabbing at it from underneath, can't see any play in it

TBH I'm not at all happy with how it drives, doesn't seem happy on the road somehow, one of the problems with buying an untaxed vehicle

What it could do with is somebody that knows how they drive to take it for a spin to see how it compares to theirs.

Having nothing to compare it to makes it difficult to pinpoint what it might be.
Click to expand...

Can't remember how much play was in the front uj from memory, Best way would be to take it of and check.

That vibration was their when I had it, Before the rebuild, I always thought it was the big daft lift kit that did it. 50-60mph then disappeared. Might be wrong with the figures but you could definitely drive through it.
Other than that it drove better than most I've driven.

And the front prop is a different one to before the rebuild so I'd say it wasn't that.

So swivel pin preload possibly?
Have you had a good shake on the wheels?
 
wack61 said:
I think it's the front, arronmorris said the front UJ wasn't very good but it looks ok grabbing at it from underneath, can't see any play in it

TBH I'm not at all happy with how it drives, doesn't seem happy on the road somehow, one of the problems with buying an untaxed vehicle

What it could do with is somebody that knows how they drive to take it for a spin to see how it compares to theirs.

Having nothing to compare it to makes it difficult to pinpoint what it might be.
Click to expand...

You could bring it round. A mate of mine knows every square inch of the mechanicals and has proved brilliant at identifying what issues are. Also we do have quite a few spare bits in order to swap bits around to check.
 
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