My tutorial is here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/tutorial-car-electrics-245168.html

cowasaki said:

If you want someone to wire it all up I can do

I've even got the SWR meter for the CB

Click to expand...

Now you've done it - there will be a queue outside in the morning!

He didn't mention free though

cowasaki said:

Spots should be switched from the high beam live and fogs should be switched from full beam. If you take the switch live wire to the relay from the high beam live through a switch then you can leave the switch on and the act of selecting high beam (or flashing) lights the spots. This is correct for the MOT. Flicking the switch to off reverts the lights to normal.

EDIT: Just noticed your diagram and thats exactly what you've done

Click to expand...

Glad I got it right then because nearly all my circuits are wired the same. Lol.
Will look at your thread when I have all it'll more time.

wack61 said:

He didn't mention free though

Click to expand...

You will need some bits and I would also suggest that there is a discussion over what your general plans are moving forwards after this lot. I have built a complete auxiliary fuse box and relay box to house my additional circuit protection etc and knowing what the final plans are gives the option of finding the best location for the rest of the stuff. Do you want a second battery for example? If you do I would suggest that that is done at the same time...

Parts/cost


2nd battery

£ ?????? Battery
£ 10 200 amp relay
£ 12 2 x 50+ amp screw fuse connectors
£ 8 120 amp cable terminals
£ 6 120 amp cable
£ 6 battery terminals
£ ????? switch
£ ????? wire to switch

Spotlights

Requires switch + relay + wire + fuse/holder (relay pos switched from high beam live)

Led bumper lights

Requires switch + relay + wire + fuse/holder
Are these running lights? If so relay pos switched from ignition live OR switched from side light live if in addition to normal lights and designed to go on/off with them

Heated seats/mirrors/windscreen

Do you want the mirrors & windscreen separately switched? (I would)
Do you want the mirrors & windscreen to come on for a limited amount of time? (I wouldn't bother)
Requires 2/3 relays, 2/3 fuses/holders & 2/3 switches (depending on option above) + relay + switch + fuse/holder .

Stereo

If you have a second battery I would connect this to the second battery to avoid flattening the main one. This is what mine does and the majority of lights etc also run off second battery.

CB radio

Again if you have a second battery I would connect this to the second battery to avoid flattening the main one. To get best reception you need to SWR the aerial and also you need to work out best location/mount remembering the mag mounts and land rovers don't mix.

Clock

Just connect to permanent live designed for stereo

USB port

Just connect to cigarette lighter fuse


When I did my electrics I planned it all out before hand which is best or you just end up with a load of wires running everywhere that would be a nightmare to fix and an even bigger nightmare for the next owner. Consider whether you want an alarm/electric windows/total closure/2nd battery because these make a difference to the wiring for the rest of the components.

I would build an auxiliary fuse/relay box as it is the neatest solution (as has been shown above). There are some good locations for one and my favourite is to remove the triangle metal thing that covers the rear lights on both side and fit flat panels on both sides. This takes up no additional space, has access to other wiring of interest, has easy access to the battery box via the chassis and is very neat.

eg.





You can even use them for attaching torch/fire extinguisher etc.




My aux relay and fuse box uses standard automotive relays and it's a quick simple matter to swap them around etc.




With this setup you would need a length of decent cable from the battery box to the rear, an additional fuse box, relay banks, terminals, several multi connectors but it's neat and you know where everything is plus it's all nicely hidden away. The alternative is a waterproof box inside the battery box (this limits 2nd battery options) or in the engine bay.

Thanks for that very detailed post , it's given me something to think about

Last time I wired anything in a vehicle was in 1985, it was a car alarm for my dad in a Volvo 244 , it all worked but the only wire he had was yellow so it looked like a chimp had wired it up

It was that bad when it went into the garage for a service the mechanic nearly spat his tea out when he opened the bonnet , he said who the hell did that

I just looked at the floor and said it was like that when he bought it

I think maybe I should do your wiring then! Have you bought and had fitted all the stuff you mention or is it just what you plan on? Are you fitting a dash upgrade? Might be worth a trip to my house for a chat about it to plan on what you want to do.

wack61 said:

Thanks for that very detailed post , it's given me something to think about

Last time I wired anything in a vehicle was in 1985, it was a car alarm for my dad in a Volvo 244 , it all worked but the only wire he had was yellow so it looked like a chimp had wired it up

It was that bad when it went into the garage for a service the mechanic nearly spat his tea out when he opened the bonnet , he said who the hell did that

I just looked at the floor and said it was like that when he bought it

Click to expand...

LOL thats awesome lol!!

Where is the best place to buy wire from ?

Where is the best place to buy the multi connectors..

I have a decent supplier for wire on ebay, they sell different ratings in various different quantities such as 25 metres. Once you buy the item you can then specify how many metres of each colour or pair of colours you want. This allowed me to wire up the TD5 dash using the correct colours. The best place for multi-connectors I've found is one which I've posted on here before for fuse boxes. They sell the 300tdi fuse box for under a tenner. I'm out at the moment so can't post now.

cowasaki said:

I think maybe I should do your wiring then! Have you bought and had fitted all the stuff you mention or is it just what you plan on? Are you fitting a dash upgrade? Might be worth a trip to my house for a chat about it to plan on what you want to do.

Click to expand...

I've bought it all, I'm good at bolting it on

The spotlights are in/on the bumper , the heated windscreen is in with 2 wires dangling off it, the heated seats are in again with wires hanging off the back

The new dash is in bits in the garage with the mud console, radio & CB

The one in it at the moment is horrific, somebody thought screwing a 70x30 lump of chequer plate to it would be a good idea

Have you got any experience with dunking those boxes? The ones I have found are IP55 rated, though I guess you could give them a healthy dose of silicon on the joins etc.
I'm a bit worried about it getting dunked, taking in water then it not draining out again

IP55 is fine for the occasional dip.
if you really want waterproof, your going to need IPX7

wack61 said:

I've bought it all, I'm good at bolting it on

The spotlights are in/on the bumper , the heated windscreen is in with 2 wires dangling off it, the heated seats are in again with wires hanging off the back

The new dash is in bits in the garage with the mud console, radio & CB

The one in it at the moment is horrific, somebody thought screwing a 70x30 lump of chequer plate to it would be a good idea

Click to expand...

OK. You are best planning ahead. Is there anything else you want to add?

Switches:

sw 1 Heated windscreen (fuse 1)
sw 2 Heated mirrors (fuse 2)
sw 3 Heated left seat (fuse 3)
sw 4 Heated right seat (fuse 3)
CB (fuse 4)
Stereo (fuse 5)
sw 5 Spots (fuse 6)
sw 6 Bumper light (fuse 7)


So are you going down the dual battery route later or not?

If not you need 3 metres 120amp cable & 4 battery connectors (I have these)
60 amp fuse & fuse holder [you need to get]
1 x 10 fuse box [you need to get]
Fuses (I have these)
A lot of wire (I have this)
6 x switches [you need to choose them and get them]

Do you have your CB coax and plugs / aerial ?

cowasaki said:

OK. You are best planning ahead. Is there anything else you want to add?

Just speakers for the stereo which I have but I'm not sure where they're going yet, the doors aren't deep enough and being a soft top the headlining isn't an option

Switches:

sw 1 Heated windscreen (fuse 1)
sw 2 Heated mirrors (fuse 2)
sw 3 Heated left seat (fuse 3)
sw 4 Heated right seat (fuse 3)
CB (fuse 4)
Stereo (fuse 5)
sw 5 Spots (fuse 6)
sw 6 Bumper light (fuse 7)


So are you going down the dual battery route later or not?

I doubt I'm going down the dual battery route

If not you need 3 metres 120amp cable & 4 battery connectors (I have these)
60 amp fuse & fuse holder [you need to get]
1 x 10 fuse box [you need to get]
Fuses (I have these)
A lot of wire (I have this)
6 x switches [you need to choose them and get them]

Do you have your CB coax and plugs / aerial ?

I've got a mag mount aerial which I was going to stick to the old roof but again that's something I'd need to sort out , it'd probably need to be something bolted to the back of the tub

Click to expand...

I've replied in the quotes so it makes sense

I bought the mud console used but unfitted as new so it came with carling switches I didn't pick
There's 4 single position 2 double position , one rear wash wipe and 2 12v fag lighters

The headed mirror elements are a kit with wire and relay

Defender Heated Mirror Kit - Heated Mirrors - Electrical - Products

I haven't fitted the console or new dash yet

I have the mud heated mirror elements which are really good. You have enough switches so you just need wire, relays, fuse box and preferably a relay box.

To keep in neat you could get the fuse box and relay box:

10 Way Blade Fuse Box Positive Bus in 12v LED WARNING Kit Car Boat Marine Trike | eBay

6 Way Automotive Relay Base Holder Box for 4/5 Pin Relays - Lucas Rists 51158524 | eBay

Which would go under the MUD dash (check sizes to make sure as I have a different dash). Once they are under it is a good neat job to connect everything up so that it works and it will be safe and easy to work on/fix later. 10 fuses gives you room for expansion also plus you will need a couple for the cigarette lighters. If you get that fuse box then get 6 push in relays from them too.

There's seems to be a choice of relay

Which ones should I go for

Thanks for your help with this, it's much appreciated

12v relay from autostar* | eBay

wack61 said:

There's seems to be a choice of relay

Which ones should I go for

Thanks for your help with this, it's much appreciated

12v relay from autostar* | eBay

Click to expand...

If your are ordering the relay base from them anyway I would get these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Q...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20d4e06391

I you contact him he will give you a decent price I did last time but I was ordering a lot at the time. Basically you just need the push in 30/40 amp automotive relays in the STANDARD size in order to fit that base. Using the base makes in tidier and easier to change them.

I'll get them ordered today,

Thinking about it I do have a second battery that came with the vehicle when I bought it, I already had a new one so fitted that but the old one is still in the garage , is it simply a matter of wiring them together or is there more to it

This is what the wiring looks like at the moment

wack61 said:

I'll get them ordered today,

Thinking about it I do have a second battery that came with the vehicle when I bought it, I already had a new one so fitted that but the old one is still in the garage , is it simply a matter of wiring them together or is there more to it

This is what the wiring looks like at the moment

Click to expand...

I'll have that wiring tidied up in half an hour to be honest! To fit a secondary battery you need:

1 x 200amp relay (same price as 100 !)
2 x lengths of red battery cable
1 x lengths of black battery cable
2 x 60amp fuses and holders
6 x heavy crimps
2 x battery terminals
1 x switch on the dash
1 x length of wire from dash to battery box

I have everything here except a spare 200amp relay and the fuses/holders, which are £11.95 inc postage here for the relay >> 12 Volt 200 Amp 4 Pin Heavy Duty Make & Break Relay - Winch Camper Split Charge | eBay
and £4.95 inc postage here for the fuses/holders >> Strip Link / Midi Fuse Holder with 50A 60A 80A 100A Fuses for Car, Truck, Van | eBay


The rest of the bits from my stock (except the switch which I think you have) would cost about £15 for 2xbattery terminals, heavy crimps, battery cable, wire, crimps etc.


Basically the ignition through the switch activates the relay which joins the two batteries allowing them both to charge. When you turn off the ignition the power is lost to the ignition circuit and the relay opens breaking the connection and isolating the 2nd battery. You connect your stereo, CB, internal light, cigarette sockets etc to the 2nd battery and you cannot discharge your battery by accident. An absolutely brilliant bit of kit and one that I use on my landy plus rather cheap at only about £30 + battery all in.