That sounds like my new gauge will try that plunger I’ve tried looking for that but can’t find the poxy thing for luv or money can I just bleed the modulator without having to bleed all the pipes again or is it the the whole shabang cheers
 
I think temp gauges are not that accurate, more of a guide, if the reading is stable over time then, suddenly goes higher, time to pull over and investigate, don't go thinking it's ok it's not in the red:rolleyes:
 
Yer bled it the right way last time will have to do whole system again just to make sure
 
I think temp gauges are not that accurate, more of a guide, if the reading is stable over time then, suddenly goes higher, time to pull over and investigate, don't go thinking it's ok it's not in the red:rolleyes:
They aren't temperature guages as such, just too cold, normal and too hot. Normal is from about 85 to.. i forget.. is it 118c?
 
That sounds like my new gauge will try that plunger I’ve tried looking for that but can’t find the poxy thing for luv or money can I just bleed the modulator without having to bleed all the pipes again or is it the the whole shabang cheers

Top of the brake pedal. Reach up, twist and extract. Pull plunger out. Fitting is reverse ...
 
My 99 with 4.6 cruises at 185F/85C. That is measured with an Autometer gauge with the sensor in the lower radiator hose. The dash Guage sits just left of center and hardly ever moves. I don't think I have ever gone above 210F/98C.
Lower hose will be at a lower temperature than the engine.
 
96 bull 17.jpg
 
85 to about 105C on mine.

Thanks Datatek for this figures. I have been driving around dead scared for the temperature after a couple of blow outs and overheating. Having changed all that is connected to the cooling, stat, rad, water pump (twice as the first with metal impeller did not transport the water to well in my opinion, then a new with more sophisticated metal impeller that took the temp down an average of 2C) ) expansion tank cap, (be aware, one of my blow outs was probably due to the new exp. tank cap not closing properly) all the tubes that can be changed, VC for the fan ...

Always starting the Nanocom together with the engine to follow the temperature increase. Normal driving, low load around 90C to 92C. After some hill-climbing it comes up to 98C and then I am dead scared.

Obviously I don't need to be that scared anymore.
But its all for the fun of having a P38

Lars E
 
I had my Hawkeye connected to my 99 with 4.6 while driving around and it said my temperature was 92 to 95C. This quite a bit warmer than the 180F/82C reported by my Autometer sensor located in the lower radiator hose so Datatek is correct about that flow being cooler. Can't locate the adaptor and sensor in upper hose as it needs 3 or 4 inches of straight run to replace. My gauge is more sensitive than the dash Guage and at least gives a good relative idea of what is going on.
 
I had my Hawkeye connected to my 99 with 4.6 while driving around and it said my temperature was 92 to 95C. This quite a bit warmer than the 180F/82C reported by my Autometer sensor located in the lower radiator hose so Datatek is correct about that flow being cooler. Can't locate the adaptor and sensor in upper hose as it needs 3 or 4 inches of straight run to replace. My gauge is more sensitive than the dash Guage and at least gives a good relative idea of what is going on.
So the RAD drops the coolant temperature by 10C. What your gauge will not do is show up a sudden overheat due, for example, to a failed water pump.
 
If hotter water is going to be coming out of the radiator I am sure I will see the temperature go up on my gauge. I know what is normal so any increase other than when going up a long hill would be worrisome.
 

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