I found original loom, but between that and the dash loom there is a another section of wire which are all same colour.

Original I have found. Off top
Of my head:
Green
Black x 2
Purple
Green/blue - Water Temp
Green/black - Fuel Sender
Orange/red - Gauge lighting

I'll check tonight see what other wires I have found.
 
Ok...

Where there are left and right hand just pick one unless both need to go separately to dash

Black=B
Brown=Br
White=W
Red=R
Purple=P
Orange=O
Blue=Bl
Grey=Gr
Green=G
Yellow=Y


B = Earth
Br / P = Permanent live
W / WB / WO = Ignition live
R = Lighting to dash OR RW = side light dash warning
BlGr= LH Full Beam
BlOr = RH Full Beam
RY = Rear fog
GR = LH ind
GW = RH ind
GBr = Reverse
WBr = Low oil pressure
BrY = Charge
WY = handbrake
LightGP = trailer
BlW = Main beam
WGr = Low fuel
BBl = diff lock
YB = Glow plugs



GP = Stop light
RB = LH Side light
ROr = RH Side light
 
Ok...

Where there are left and right hand just pick one unless both need to go separately to dash

Black=B
Brown=Br
White=W
Red=R
Purple=P
Orange=O
Blue=Bl
Grey=Gr
Green=G
Yellow=Y


B = Earth
Br / P = Permanent live
W / WB / WO = Ignition live
R = Lighting to dash OR RW = side light dash warning
BlGr= LH Full Beam
BlOr = RH Full Beam
RY = Rear fog
GR = LH ind
GW = RH ind
GBr = Reverse
WBr = Low oil pressure
BrY = Charge
WY = handbrake
LightGP = trailer
BlW = Main beam
WGr = Low fuel
BBl = diff lock
YB = Glow plugs



GP = Stop light
RB = LH Side light
ROr = RH Side light

If I remember rightly you covered this a while back in some depth, if you can find that post that would be a help :)
 
Just an update.
Turns out all the wiring side of things was fine.
Fitted a new thermostat as I've been running a 72deg' stat through the summer as was doing some heavy driving.
Just replaced for the normal 88deg' and temp gauge sits spot on just below half all the time once warmed up.

Muppets in the stores gave me 300 stat that is slightly different to the 200 and luckily just removed the rubber ring and it fitted in ok, it's longer than the normal 200 stat as it has some disc on lower end of stat where as the 200 one didn't.
Think there's enough room inside the stat housing for it to work.
Was going to go back and change them tommorow but it's working fine at the minute so will leave it be.

So wiring side is all good, if anybody is reading this and wanting to do the td5 dash, do it! It's nice to drive at night times now with a fully illuminated working dash.
Follow Retro's guide and diagrams and it should be fine.
 
Well managed to get all the gauges to work, I didn't have to alter the TD5 wiring loom at all the the Temperature gauge is reading as it should?

The binicale i have done something wrong, because left Indicator flashes the main beam, and the only light works properly is the side lights! But i'll tackle that in the light in the morning.
 
Well managed to get all the gauges to work, I didn't have to alter the TD5 wiring loom at all the the Temperature gauge is reading as it should?

The binicale i have done something wrong, because left Indicator flashes the main beam, and the only light works properly is the side lights! But i'll tackle that in the light in the morning.

What age/engine is your wagon??
It shouldn't work lol!
 
If anyone needs a TD5 temp gauge I have got one here but the black background of the gauge has gone a little "crazy paving", I've got the correct sender too but didn't use it as kept the original in the centre dash as I fitted fuel gauge, rev counter and clock in binnacle.
 
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I'm having problems with the binnacle, the wiring is all as the plugs should be, but switch side lights on and oil/fuel/diff lock lights come on? And that's all that work?
 
I'm having problems with the binnacle, the wiring is all as the plugs should be, but switch side lights on and oil/fuel/diff lock lights come on? And that's all that work?

Oil/fuel and diff lock warnings are circuits where the ignition live is connected to one side of the bulb permanently and the circuits are "switched on" by supplying a negative feed. I would check that the ground, permanent live and ignition live feeds to the warning lights are exactly what they should be. Test them with a meter or 12v probe and check each whilst turning side lights on/off too.
 
Oil/fuel and diff lock warnings are circuits where the ignition live is connected to one side of the bulb permanently and the circuits are "switched on" by supplying a negative feed. I would check that the ground, permanent live and ignition live feeds to the warning lights are exactly what they should be. Test them with a meter or 12v probe and check each whilst turning side lights on/off too.


Ahh is see, would this explain why non of the other lights are working?

thanks for your help.
 
Ahh is see, would this explain why non of the other lights are working?

thanks for your help.

My electrical tutorial is here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/tutorial-car-electrics-245168.html

Basically the warning lights work on the basis that a bulb requires a positive feed and ground. So for the circuit to work you need both and for it not to work either can be broken:

tutor_1_5.png


Now some warning lights come from positive feeds such as HIGH BEAM, LEFT INDICATOR or RIGHT INDICATOR......

So all we need is a permanent ground going to one side of the bulb and to get the warning light to work we just connect a wire to the relevant circuit that the warning is coming from i.e. H/B, LEFT IND or RIGHT IND.


Now with some of the warning lights they are coming from switches/sensors that are connected to the body of the car and so they supply a ground when activated or NO CONNECTION when de-activated. The ones you are having issues with are of that type e.g. diff lock - with diff lock there is a switch attaching to the side of the transfer box which shorts out against the metal of the box when the diff lock is activated. So warning lights of that type require an ignition live feed....


So I would suggest that you have either swapped the ignition live and ground round OR neither are connected correctly. Just check permanent, ignition live and ground fully and that the connectors are plugged in fully.
 

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