KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
My mates dad was a carpet fitter, he used to spray the adhesive onto his cuts, he reckoned he could not afford to get blood on a customers carpet, and it apparently it worked a treat !
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Dayco belt tensioner and new belt today, that completes the 'Belt and Pulley' work.
Oil and filters at the weekend then we all done for routine maintenance, normally have this lot done by Sept but building my "Vernada" (or if the Mrs is not looking "defender dry barn" got in the way.
Oil and filters at the weekend then we all done for routine maintenance, normally have this lot done by Sept but building my "Vernada" (or if the Mrs is not looking "defender dry barn" got in the way.
Last edited:
SkillzTom
Active Member
I could see how that would work ! I know for 100% I’d end up sticking my hands together though.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Fitting this superb solution to go under my middle seat, I prefer to have the middle seat instead of a cubby box. Fell happier with my monster battery alone under the NS seat, not keen on relays and other stuff in with it etc. Also means I can run a secondary earthing bus bar for all ancillaries and double strap the Neg terminal on the battery.
Will etch prime, paint and use sealant and a couple of rivnuts to fit, in case i need access.
Going to use the original cover, with a foam / velcro seal for inside.
I am going to use a flexi metal conduit, to run a battery cables new fuse / distribution board and neg bus bar.
It will be the new home for all my new electrics / fuse box / distribution board / relays etc.
Will etch prime, paint and use sealant and a couple of rivnuts to fit, in case i need access.
Going to use the original cover, with a foam / velcro seal for inside.
I am going to use a flexi metal conduit, to run a battery cables new fuse / distribution board and neg bus bar.
It will be the new home for all my new electrics / fuse box / distribution board / relays etc.
Last edited:
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
will do when it arrives!
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Decided to have a go at getting the Speedo alarm LED to work for me.
(I dont have an LR alarm system, but do have another system)
Wiring seams straight forward enough, I will connect a perm +12V feed to the LED supply line and connect the led EARTH wire the the IGN +.
This way when the engine is running the LED will go out and when the engine stops the LED will come on and flash. I have a dash mounted LED that currently is wired in this way.
(I dont have an LR alarm system, but do have another system)
Wiring seams straight forward enough, I will connect a perm +12V feed to the LED supply line and connect the led EARTH wire the the IGN +.
This way when the engine is running the LED will go out and when the engine stops the LED will come on and flash. I have a dash mounted LED that currently is wired in this way.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Hazard switch illumination fixed, with white LED.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
New Voltmeter and outside temp gauge. Both go through a self check cycle on first power up.
The temp gauge is an OLED (organic LED) dont panic its not a vegan thing, google it.
Anyway very happy with both, so much so thinking of getting another temp one and attaching the sensor to a coolant pipe, the sensor range is -40 to120C so well within the coolant operating range of around 80-90C anything above 115C is dangermouse bordering on cracked head time.
First reading is the garage, n yes its chilly in there, the second is under my tongue (and yes I still have the flu and a bit of a temp so all good)
View attachment 166666
The temp gauge is an OLED (organic LED) dont panic its not a vegan thing, google it.
Anyway very happy with both, so much so thinking of getting another temp one and attaching the sensor to a coolant pipe, the sensor range is -40 to120C so well within the coolant operating range of around 80-90C anything above 115C is dangermouse bordering on cracked head time.
First reading is the garage, n yes its chilly in there, the second is under my tongue (and yes I still have the flu and a bit of a temp so all good)
Last edited:
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
My apprentice mechanics....
hey! can you send me a message! i got a load of questions...
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
send me a pm
wont let me
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Back to the middle seat under tray storage fing.
Decided I want my battery to be lonely and live alone, so moving all ancillary / mod electrics across to new home under middle seat.
Etch primed, and buzzed over with LR Epsom Green and Lacquer. not my best spray job but it wont really be seen but did it cos i like to.
chassis matt the road side face of the tray, sealed seams so waterproof and placed a self adhesive rubber matt on floor of tray.
Decided I want my battery to be lonely and live alone, so moving all ancillary / mod electrics across to new home under middle seat.
- Lights bar relays
- Heated screen (relays, timer, fuses) using a 'midi' fuse system for this
- Rear work lights
Etch primed, and buzzed over with LR Epsom Green and Lacquer. not my best spray job but it wont really be seen but did it cos i like to.
chassis matt the road side face of the tray, sealed seams so waterproof and placed a self adhesive rubber matt on floor of tray.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Thats a great fuse box. Whos it made by?
The space under the cubby is an excellent spot for aux fuse boxes. Got mine aux fuse box in a mud sliding locker that sits under the cubby. Also houses the amp for the Alpine sub as well as storage for the CB.
Like you I wanted my battery to be on its own, mainly due to having bucket seats so access takes more time.
The space under the cubby is an excellent spot for aux fuse boxes. Got mine aux fuse box in a mud sliding locker that sits under the cubby. Also houses the amp for the Alpine sub as well as storage for the CB.
Like you I wanted my battery to be on its own, mainly due to having bucket seats so access takes more time.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Its just a Blue Sea copy 100Amp total from fleabay, but well made. had one before etc.has a fully sealed underside the cheap ones you can see the dodgy soldering etc. What i like about it is the neg bus bar, so you can run a beefy neg cable and be done with it, no more 'self tappers n trouble in 2 years guaranteed neg connections'. I am also fitting a nice large Neg bus bar in battery box, so battery and fuse box and main vehicle earth all to common, and fitting a secondary earth flexy cable to the same bus for good measure.
I am going to run pos+ neg cables in conduit glanded from the battery box. (treated myself to a hydraulic crimper for batt cables)
Will be using a midi fuse holder however for the heated screen, actual power run to elements. Will still wire the timer and relay via this fuse box.
Will be fitting a led strip light with a normally closed momentary switch, so when I remove the lid i have light.
I am not going to bolt the lid down, will just use bonnet catch type fixings, I have a 4mm double pipe foam insulating tape for underside of lid. I wanted to the tray to be water proof from ingress by itself, so the lid is not the main seal etc.
This way I can access fuses form inside the cab and not have to eject the passenger into the rain to change a fuse!
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Relay box, Midi inline fuse and main fuse box (relays are spares for mock up)
Midi 30Afuse is for heated screen.
Relay / Fuse box is for :
Heated screen relays X2 and timer x 1
Front Light bars relay x 1
Rear Work Light relay x 1
Spare fuse storage
Main fuse box will act as hot Bus feed and fused distribution
Ancillary circuits here;
Midi 30Afuse is for heated screen.
Relay / Fuse box is for :
Heated screen relays X2 and timer x 1
Front Light bars relay x 1
Rear Work Light relay x 1
Spare fuse storage
Main fuse box will act as hot Bus feed and fused distribution
Ancillary circuits here;
- Ctek Battery Charger external connector
- Front Safari spots
- Air horns
- Heated seats
- USB charger sockets
- Real load area internal led strips
