Jaswilliams
Active Member
Go to introduce your self then start your own thread I am sure someone will help
Hello
My name is Paulo, I am from Portugal and recently bought a Freelander TD4 from year 2000.
When I travel with more speed sometimes the car loses power for a few seconds then back to normal. Usually happens at around 120km/h in fifth gear.
There is a error recorded P1470 (variable intake balance valve) and P0100 (caliber air flow)
The mechanic told me yesterday there was a breathing tube (A) from a vacuum box connected to a transmission breather (B)...that's very wrong correct?
I will go to the mechanic today, what would you advise me to do?
Test the car without with this tube (1) disconnected?
The "vacuum box" should be repaired or cleaned because the the tube was connected to the transmission breather?
I do not know if I understand, can I test the MAF by simply turn it off or unplugging any tube?
Thanks,
Paulo
Hello thank you very much for these forums as illustrative.
my name is fran and a month to buy me a freelander Td4 and had the same problem of lack of power and great highway speeds and RPM ago
I have reviewed the solenoid and a pressure gauge is fine, I checked the turbo actuator using a vacuum pump and is well though with little tour of their lack of use because it always worked in a position
the fault was in the elimination of vacuum hose and when I dropped and picked ambient air releasing the power vacuum the problem is resolved
a gauge I checked the solenoid acts above 3000 rpm and releasing vacuum acting on the turbocharger
follow the hose release I've come to the rigid tube with a spiral that is the relief of the transmission that goes free
finding was doing vacuum to IDR
not freeing it right through an air filter .......
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Hello thank you very much for these forums as illustrative.
my name is fran and a month to buy me a freelander Td4 and had the same problem of lack of power and great highway speeds and RPM ago
I have reviewed the solenoid and a pressure gauge is fine, I checked the turbo actuator using a vacuum pump and is well though with little tour of their lack of use because it always worked in a position
the fault was in the elimination of vacuum hose and when I dropped and picked ambient air releasing the power vacuum the problem is resolved
a gauge I checked the solenoid acts above 3000 rpm and releasing vacuum acting on the turbocharger
follow the hose release I've come to the rigid tube with a spiral that is the relief of the transmission that goes free
finding was doing vacuum to IDR
not freeing it right through an air filter .......
This is exactly how mine was plumbed up! I replaced my vent filter during the service I gave it last week and fitted it back with two pipes. Now I realise it should only of had one hose! IRD vent pipe now removed and will test it later.
Dan
gordondav39
New Member
Hi Guys
Yet another Freelander with lack of power question. A two weeks ago my 03 plate ems light came on, on the dash board and then at roughly 2750 rpm the fuel cut off to engine. So took the car to local indie Landy Garage to get diagnostics run came back as low fuel pressure garage had the car 3 days and couldn't find a fuel pressure problem. Found a small cut in the intercooler pipe which was replaced still same problem. Garage ordered a pressure sensor which was replaced and turbo solenoid at my request after reading about other cars but the problem is still there and has gotten worse now no power from around 1500rpm garage confused and so am I. Am I going to get car back home tomorrow and start one at a time removing tubes and hoses from MAF and turbo solenoid, therefore my questions are which one first and what should happen when tube pipe is removed I am used to A series engines Please can you help I have no hair to pull out lol
Yet another Freelander with lack of power question. A two weeks ago my 03 plate ems light came on, on the dash board and then at roughly 2750 rpm the fuel cut off to engine. So took the car to local indie Landy Garage to get diagnostics run came back as low fuel pressure garage had the car 3 days and couldn't find a fuel pressure problem. Found a small cut in the intercooler pipe which was replaced still same problem. Garage ordered a pressure sensor which was replaced and turbo solenoid at my request after reading about other cars but the problem is still there and has gotten worse now no power from around 1500rpm garage confused and so am I. Am I going to get car back home tomorrow and start one at a time removing tubes and hoses from MAF and turbo solenoid, therefore my questions are which one first and what should happen when tube pipe is removed I am used to A series engines
Please can you help I have no hair to pull out lol
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
Hi Guys
Yet another Freelander with lack of power question. A two weeks ago my 03 plate ems light came on, on the dash board and then at roughly 2750 rpm the fuel cut off to engine. So took the car to local indie Landy Garage to get diagnostics run came back as low fuel pressure garage had the car 3 days and couldn't find a fuel pressure problem. Found a small cut in the intercooler pipe which was replaced still same problem. Garage ordered a pressure sensor which was replaced and turbo solenoid at my request after reading about other cars but the problem is still there and has gotten worse now no power from around 1500rpm garage confused and so am I. Am I going to get car back home tomorrow and start one at a time removing tubes and hoses from MAF and turbo solenoid, therefore my questions are which one first and what should happen when tube pipe is removed I am used to A series engines
Low pressure fuel pump on way out it sounds like to me. happens to most TD4's. Mine is an '06 with 126,000 miles.
Glosterlad
Member
Well my problem is very similar. If I go up any steep hill the amber warning light comes on and engine feels sluggish thereafter. However come the next morning the warning light has disappeared. However this problem is not just occuring on hills o.k. If I put my foot down too hard to get up any incline (even on a motorway) then the warning light again appears. I spend a lot of time on motorways so I now gently drive the car along while it engages the gears naturally and by the time I get up to 70 all is good with the world. However if I hit a incline its a case of easing off on the pedal until hitting the flat again. In my case its definitely only occuring when I overwork the engine and what I do if going up hills now is choose manual gears ! I can fly up the hill nicely now and no warning light ! Before anyone asks I have had a diagnostic test that set me back a wad only for no problem to be found ! So I am still none the wiser.... though this lack of power on occasions is a pain... If anyone does have an idea of likely cause I am all ears..
I should add that the car is a real mover from traffic lights. Impressive acceleration for a large vehicle (but the warning light does not come on when hitting the pedal hard from a standing start on the flat ok)
Cheers
John p.s. My motor is a 05 Sports version with 70k on the clock
I should add that the car is a real mover from traffic lights. Impressive acceleration for a large vehicle (but the warning light does not come on when hitting the pedal hard from a standing start on the flat ok)
Cheers
John p.s. My motor is a 05 Sports version with 70k on the clock
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Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
Sounds like the low pressure fuel pump in the offside rear wheel arch is on its way out. Replace the filter at the same time. Only buy an OEM pump. The cheap ones are just that and don't last.
Glosterlad
Member
Many thanks for your response particularly as I am totally non savvy when it comes to engines etc...
can I assume the fuel pump is one like this ?
LAND ROVER FREELANDER TD4 REMOTE FUEL PUMP & FILTER - WFX000181 & WJN000080 | eBay
This comes with a filter (is this the filter you refer to ?)
Is it easy to change ? Sounds like it would have to go on a ramp to access ?
I will look around for a read up on this so sorry for my ignorance o.k.
Cheers !
John
p.s. A friend ran a diagnostic check a few months back so if there is a 'fault' with the low pressure fuel pump would this not have shown up as a code on the diagnostic test ? The only code that came up was one relating to 'temperature' and the only thing my friend did was to squirt carboretter/throttle cleaner into the inlet/outlet pipes which he swears is a good thing (jet cleaning or something along those lines... which of course was lost on me...). And while it might be a good thing it clearly did not solve the problem...
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Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
Looks like the right ones from the description. I personally wouldn't buy them, but that is a personal thing.
I bought a genuine one which cost double that and my genuine LR fuel filter cost around £22.
I don't need a ramp to get to mine as my Freelander is about 70mm higher than normal. But you may need to.
I bought a genuine one which cost double that and my genuine LR fuel filter cost around £22.
I don't need a ramp to get to mine as my Freelander is about 70mm higher than normal. But you may need to.
Glosterlad
Member
Many thanks Epicuser for your continued advice on this o.k.
Read through all this very informative and lengthy thread and it appears astonishing that so many parts are being changed whilst the problem is not always being solved. Boost control valve/solenoid, turbo actuator, vacuum hose, MAF, EGR valve, crank angle sensor, split hoses, fuel pump/filter (which may be my problem) and the list goes on so it seems ...
As I stated I am 'non engine savvy' and most of these terms are lost on me..(I can do all basic things such as tyre pressures, tread depths, topping up all fluid levels and that is the extent of my knowledge quite frankly)
But it does seem, for some, that the only way to eliminate this common sluggish power problem is to fit a part and if that doesnt work fit another and so on till the right part is found. And these parts are not always cheap either particularly if one eventually discovers that its a turbo replacement job (and after many other parts have been changed too....which I am presuming didn't necessarily need changing at all ?)
And yet we have this magic diagnostic checking system that cannot pin point what the likely source of the problem is in many of the cases mentioned.
I appreciate that this diagnostic system cannot always precisely tell you specifically where a particular fault is. And I appreciate it has to work on sensors in specific areas ? Well I am assuming that is how it generates its codes but this is just guess work on my part as I'm not really qualified in any of this area)
For now, in my case, I will take the route advised by Epicusor ok as it does seem to have been the cause in 'some of the cases' mentioned in this thread.
Low pressure fuel pump here we come..
Again, apologies if my ignorance of certain areas comes shining through in this post ok !
Cheers !
John
p.s. Can someone advise if a fault code would get generated in most cases of a fault with the low pressure fuel pump ?
Glosterlad
Member
Just south of Gloucester (Quedgeley) o.k.
Would the 'right kit' be the kind of kit that Guy Salmon or Tim Fry have for example. I know they use pretty expensive kits. Friend of friend used his mobile and a 'app' when trying to diagnose my fault. And this just brought up a code which 'apparently' referred to a very low temp reading (I should have noted the code). The 'friend of a friend' just squirted jet cleaner into the inlet and outlets but this didnt rectify the problem I still currently have. Naturally I am reticent to fork out money for something that will not guarantee a 'fix' (but then maybe I don't have a choice). However the 'right kit' would appear to display readings which will point me in the right direction. Correct ?
Many thanks
John
p.s. I should add that I used Tim Fry a couple of years ago and this corrected a fault with a 'sensor' but at the time I did not have this current problem ok. Maybe I should just cut my losses and go back to him again...
Glosterlad
Member
Update on my 'lack of power/amber light' etc
The problem was just.... a small hole in the vacuum hose.
Many uphill climbs later and its like having a new motor ! And the dreaded amber warning light has not returned. And this on just a temporary hose.
Who do I have to thank ? td4van thats who.
He not only gave up his time to help but also gave me an education on the workings of the TD4. As well as saving me forking out a lot of money too.
I cannot thank him enough
Cheers !
John
p.s. And I appreciate all the advice given by others on this thread. Any of the suggestions could have been the problem but thankfully they were not. In future I will give the hoses a more thorough checking
The problem was just.... a small hole in the vacuum hose.
Many uphill climbs later and its like having a new motor ! And the dreaded amber warning light has not returned. And this on just a temporary hose.
Who do I have to thank ? td4van thats who.
He not only gave up his time to help but also gave me an education on the workings of the TD4. As well as saving me forking out a lot of money too.
I cannot thank him enough
Cheers !
John
p.s. And I appreciate all the advice given by others on this thread. Any of the suggestions could have been the problem but thankfully they were not. In future I will give the hoses a more thorough checking
