Hi. I have a 52 plate freelander TD4, I put some fuel in yesterday from Tesco's drove home ok then this morning i started it which was ok but when i pulled away it had no power, i stopped and listen to the fuel pump which is under the o/s/r wheel arch it was working but noisey as if it had air in it and not a lot of fuel, could it be the Tesco's fuel jelling up or is there a second pump in the tank which is not working as it has a saddle tank.
Hope you can help.

Tony
 
Have read this thread with great interest & purchased a solenoid to fit, however unless you have a pit I cannot believe this can be replaced within 15-20 minutes

Even jacked up it's very difficult to get to, I can see it & managed to undo one of the nuts (I assume there are two, but unless you get the hose off the other is difficult to see)

I aborted the process & considered removing the engine tray (having read threads on this subject) but again this was unsuccessful, the Solenoid replacement is a real challenge I consider myself handy but just cannot do this one, what am I doing wrong :confused::confused:
 
I just put the front wheels on ramps and accessed under drivers footwell, nuts were easy to get off. No need to remove engine cover. Changed solenoid, but not at fault. It was LP fuel pump sticking, despite good pressure.
 
Hi, so glad I found your post. I am starting to lose faith in landrovers, having previously owned a dreaded 1.8 petrol with the dreaded head gasket issue. I now have a td4 as I read these where much better. I've owned it 8 months and now I have this lack of power issue when driving on the motorway at 50+. It just won't shift passed 70mph and starts to lose power with high revs, then all of a sudden at the top of the Hill starts to zoom off. Exactly as described in your thread. A few weeks ago the engine management light came on and my mechanic said after a diagnostic test that it is a faulty turbo and it needs replacing. He has cleaned the turbo out and the light went away although the loss of power remained and 4 days later the light has reared its ugly head. He said if cleaning it didn't work I would need a new turbo and think he muttered £1,800!! But I've read on other threads that peops have had new turbos fitted and the problem remains. Just wandered if mine could be this problem. So what shall I ask my mechanic to do? Please bear in mind I am a woman and only ever put fuel in it and drive, oh and go through the car wash, so I will jot be opening the Bonnet and pulling out tubes etc lol. I have just had a full service and the turbo cleaned. Also a few months ago (please don't remind me how very stupid I am) I put petrol in my diesel tank and didn't realise until I had broken down 30 miles down the motorway and had the aa come out to drain it. Could this have caused these symptoms with the fuel pump? Any advice greatly appreciated :)
 
Hi, so glad I found your post. I am starting to lose faith in landrovers, having previously owned a dreaded 1.8 petrol with the dreaded head gasket issue. I now have a td4 as I read these where much better. I've owned it 8 months and now I have this lack of power issue when driving on the motorway at 50+. It just won't shift passed 70mph and starts to lose power with high revs, then all of a sudden at the top of the Hill starts to zoom off. Exactly as described in your thread. A few weeks ago the engine management light came on and my mechanic said after a diagnostic test that it is a faulty turbo and it needs replacing. He has cleaned the turbo out and the light went away although the loss of power remained and 4 days later the light has reared its ugly head. He said if cleaning it didn't work I would need a new turbo and think he muttered !! But I've read on other threads that peops have had new turbos fitted and the problem remains. Just wandered if mine could be this problem. So what shall I ask my mechanic to do? Please bear in mind I am a woman and only ever put fuel in it and drive, oh and go through the car wash, so I will jot be opening the Bonnet and pulling out tubes etc lol. I have just had a full service and the turbo cleaned. Also a few months ago (please don't remind me how very stupid I am) I put petrol in my diesel tank and didn't realise until I had broken down 30 miles down the motorway and had the aa come out to drain it. Could this have caused these symptoms with the fuel pump? Any advice greatly appreciated :)

i had similar, i would loose power over 65 mph , if i press pedal more it wouldn't increase power , if i let off pedal , would loose more speed but couldn't get more speed up, might come back of a min or couple mins or would have to pull in on motorway for a bit and the continued on,
i took it to my guy, he said it could be one of two things, turbo or solenoid
, it turned out to be solenoid, had another problem as well as intake near battery was worn with hole in it , so that didn't help
also that orange turbo light came on in mine , too
i would suggest maybe go cheapest option by changing solenoid , its not too expensive, i ordered mine from u.k as was cheaper there and you live there, so easy ,, a mechanic would have it done in 20 mins or less

p's
next time if you put petrol in your td4, if you have less than half a tank full , fill the rest with diesel and it be ok, i know few guys who did the same , its easy done when the mind is else where

cheerio
 
Mines now sorted:
1 - Split Inter cooler hose replaced - no more black smoke
2 - Turbo solenoid replaced - needed ramps & all done in 15 minutes, pulls like a train from 70 through to 90 then I realised I was breaking the speed limit!
 
Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.

I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.

Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.

The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.

My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.

The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.

So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.

For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.

Good luck ! :)
hi where did you buy your solenoid from if you do not mind me asking
 
New one for you guys.... EML comes on going up hills at 60/70mph and then goes out and power comes back once the hill has levelled out....classic symptoms but...

I've changed:
- Boost solenoid (Official LandRover new part) - also tried without solenoid connected, same problem.
- Fuel filter - allmakes part - seemed to improve things a bit but maybe my imagination.

and no difference...I'm trying to avoid the £600 New Turbo so am looking for other ideas: fuel rail sensor and wiring....but this would be more all the time/intermittent EML rather than set conditions....Fuel pump...possible but no problem starting etc. and I can hear it fire up and turn off after a few minutes.

Any other ideas, please ??? 2004 TD4 HSE Auto, 70k on the clock.

P.S. From speaking to Turbo specialists, Garrett don't do a recon-kit for the variable geometry in these Turbos and apparently those companies offering this are using old/2nd hand parts so it's another fix or new Turbo :(
 
New one for you guys.... EML comes on going up hills at 60/70mph and then goes out and power comes back once the hill has levelled out....classic symptoms but...

I've changed:
- Boost solenoid (Official LandRover new part) - also tried without solenoid connected, same problem.
- Fuel filter - allmakes part - seemed to improve things a bit but maybe my imagination.

and no difference...I'm trying to avoid the £600 New Turbo so am looking for other ideas: fuel rail sensor and wiring....but this would be more all the time/intermittent EML rather than set conditions....Fuel pump...possible but no problem starting etc. and I can hear it fire up and turn off after a few minutes.

Any other ideas, please ??? 2004 TD4 HSE Auto, 70k on the clock.

P.S. From speaking to Turbo specialists, Garrett don't do a recon-kit for the variable geometry in these Turbos and apparently those companies offering this are using old/2nd hand parts so it's another fix or new Turbo :(

Low pressure fuel pump and/or MAF sensor would be my guess.
 
Low pressure fuel pump and/or MAF sensor would be my guess.

Is that the under rear arch fuel pump (I think there's only one) ?

I can hear it spinning with the ignition on and then it shuts off after a minute or so - I guess it reaches it's operating pressure but given the "hill aspect" of the problem it's possible that it's not supplying enough fuel pressure to the engine and the lack of smoke out the exhaust would also indicate that it's not running rich.

Thinking of getting a RonBox kit with a new MAF sensor as I want to fit the RonBox anyway once the problem is fixed and getting it now with a new MAF sensor seems like a reasonable idea.

Thoughts please ?
 
Yes, under the O/S/R wheel arch. I had the same problem a while back changed the pump and it was cured.

If you're going to replace the MAF and get a Synergy box then you can buy a cheaper Pierburg MAF instead of the Bosch one. Rover Ron's site has all the info you need on that score.
 
Yes, under the O/S/R wheel arch. I had the same problem a while back changed the pump and it was cured.

If you're going to replace the MAF and get a Synergy box then you can buy a cheaper Pierburg MAF instead of the Bosch one. Rover Ron's site has all the info you need on that score.

Thanks sijwhite for the reply - you've given me hope again :D

I'll change the pump and maybe go for one of Ron's kits with the MAF included as this seems to be the most economical option.

I'll report back once I've raided the piggy bank ;)
 
hi been lurking and reading with some interest I too had a problem with the engine management cutting in at 3000 ish revs also the elm light flashing up at the same time I checked the turbo etc all seem to work ok as I have only just got the car and don't know the history did a full service blanked off the egr cleaned out the inlet manifold still only getting about 3000 ish revs so decided to renew the fuel filter glad I did the cars done 115000 miles and judging by the date on the old filter it was an original one primed as per instructions on this forum started car held my breath floored the throttle and the needle very quickly smacked the red line happy days thanks guys:)
 
For my part filter and pump now replaced (as well as Boost solenoid) - she pulls a lot better, picks up a lot quicker, pump a lot quieter however ..... problem of EML and power cut going up a hill at 60mph still present (although the light and restriction seem to "clear" quicker than before) :(

Next hope is the MAF sensor once the "seller" has sent it to me.
 
and ...... MAF Sensor replaced with the new one in the kit with the RonBox 2A (also fitted). Great piece of kit, well presented, easy to fit and does what it's supposed to. Nice strong pull from 1850revs, much less down-changing, time will tell if the MPG has improved.

However...... yes, you guessed it, the EML problem is still there :(

I spoke to RoverRon earlier today (very nice and helpful) and he's suggested a Forté Turbo Cleaner as he believes that the turbo vanes (the variable ones) could be sticking causing overboost and therefore EML under load. I'll try the Cleaner and then it'll be a turbo removal with a "hope" of cleaning off the carbon deposits (I'll get me chisel, lol).

I'm going to end up with a new car if I replace any more bits, current list is:
1. Turbo Solenoid
2. Fuel Filter
3. Fuel Pump
4. Oil breather filter thingy (BMW separator)
5. MAF sensor
6. RonBox 2A
7. Turbo ????? I hope not :(
 
Don't forget the egr removal

It's on my list.

Little update for anyone following this or having similar problems.

We ran a ODBII diagnostic on the car last night and it returned two faults:

1. 4704:- Prefeed pressure monitor - pressure too low
2. 5232:- Boost pressure control valve - no error type shown.

Given that the boost control solenoid is new we decided to pressure (or rather vacuum) test the circuit and ..... no leaks nor faults :confused:

OK so everything seems to be pointing to the turbo and stuck variable geometry vanes, so I bit the bullet today and have removed the turbo - oh what fun I had.....not :mad:

With the vacuum acutator rod delinked from the turbo we get plenty of movement but the linkage that actuates the variable geometry vanes moves only ..... 3mm ..... ta da...... at last the reason..... the Turbo is officially knackered. I've left it in a bucket of non-perfumed domestic heating fuel to see if it will clean off any of the carbon build up as I can't get the turbo apart (the two cast halves aren't moving and yes I have removed all the bolts) :rolleyes:

Just left a message for the garage I bought the car off back in February as they've been aware of the "issue" since day one (less than a week after I collected the car but also unfortunately the wrong side of the channel to drop it back easily) and we'll sort out who pays for what. I'm aiming at a new Turbo (with me paying the difference between this and a recon unit) as I don't fancy a recon unit and as the new ones are only £200 more expensive it seems a logical choice. I'll minimise the fitting/installation charges as I'll put it back in myself.

So after all that it was the Turbo - at least this way all the other nice new bits will see the car lasting a few more years as this one is supposed to be a keeper......we'll see ;)
 


Decided against paying £700 for a new Turbo nor £350 for a "recon" one so ended up taking mine apart and found that it was well and truly carbonised up (you can see how much the vanes moved .... or rather didn't) in the first photo. I left it to soak in heating fuel (called petrol over here) over night and then attacked it with an old toothbrush. Well pleased with the result.

Spent a nerve racking morning waiting for the dreaded "I've broken down" call with the misses out and about in the car - however all seems good - no EML and lots of lovely acceleration up hills.

Time will tell if it's really sorted but certainly seems to be the case.

P.S. Turbo went back in much easier than it came out I found - not in a hurry to do it again though.

P.P.S. Garage has agreed to pay £400 "towards the recon unit and fitting" .... so I'll be popping that in my pocket for my time and hassle in fixing the problem. :)
 
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