Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
It isn't a sticky thread for no reason........ 😎
It isn't a sticky thread for no reason........ 😎
fflyingdog
New Member
Excellent post OP ,fixed mine in 15 mins ,solenoid a little more expensive now but still around £50 from Landrover.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
I have just been reading through this thread again and realised that there are two valves, one being the boost pressure control valve with an hose joining EGR valve as in Fig 1 below, copied from the beginning of the thread, and fig 2 one taken by me when I was inspecting the FL after my purchase .
1
2
Then we have the EGR solenoid valve as in Fig 3 below where I notice that one of the hoses had rubbed on the metal pipe and was nearly worn through so I change the hose and re-routed it.
3
The same EGR solenoid is fitted to the R75 diesel engine seen here in Fig 4 a spare one I have from my days with the R75
4
So my question is which of these vales is being referred to in this thread to solve the lack of power at 70mph boost or EGR solenoid hopefully I am not confusing the thread
Then we have the EGR solenoid valve as in Fig 3 below where I notice that one of the hoses had rubbed on the metal pipe and was nearly worn through so I change the hose and re-routed it.
The same EGR solenoid is fitted to the R75 diesel engine seen here in Fig 4 a spare one I have from my days with the R75
So my question is which of these vales is being referred to in this thread to solve the lack of power at 70mph boost or EGR solenoid hopefully I am not confusing the thread
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
The boost solenoid is a a little difference in the fact it as three pipes coming from it but the EGR solenoid valve as only two, link & pic below
Solenoid Valve for Land Rover Freelander 1 Td4 2.0 Diesel STC4198 - 2001
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andy_cowman
Member
Hi all
This became an issue on the run to the Alps last week - quite annoying on long hills!! I was able to mostly hold the speed a little higher before the hills though
Anyway - this thread is excellent and am ordering the part.
My question is did anyone else notice increased fuel consumption with this fault? The weather was bad, I did have things on the roof and I was pushing the speed a little but economy was much worse that expected?
Cheers
This became an issue on the run to the Alps last week - quite annoying on long hills!! I was able to mostly hold the speed a little higher before the hills though
Anyway - this thread is excellent and am ordering the part.
My question is did anyone else notice increased fuel consumption with this fault? The weather was bad, I did have things on the roof and I was pushing the speed a little but economy was much worse that expected?
Cheers
andy_cowman
Member
Swapped part and doesn't cut out as before but can be a bit sluggish still when pushed.
Straight forward to fit at least.
Found a slight split in an intercooler hose so silicones ordered. The fuel economy issue from reading could be maf? Will give it a good clean and see what happens next.
Straight forward to fit at least.
Found a slight split in an intercooler hose so silicones ordered. The fuel economy issue from reading could be maf? Will give it a good clean and see what happens next.
backdoor15
New Member
Hi
I run a TD5 2000 and the problem you discribe are so much like I am experiencing but at the other end of the speed range. Running cold it struggles to reach 30mph with revs reaching 2500 and more. Running hot starting to climb you can see the revs start to climb as the speed drops off. Do you think this could be the cause of my problem, not sure if the TD5 has said soleniod.
I run a TD5 2000 and the problem you discribe are so much like I am experiencing but at the other end of the speed range. Running cold it struggles to reach 30mph with revs reaching 2500 and more. Running hot starting to climb you can see the revs start to climb as the speed drops off. Do you think this could be the cause of my problem, not sure if the TD5 has said soleniod.
landi mad1
New Member
got the same issue been in several time for diagnosis and to be rectified still the same and the engine management light comes on once going up gill and trying to accelerate at the same time chnaged the boost solenoid twice changed all the turbo pipes changed the vacuum accumulator still comes up on decent fault equipment boost pressure or something to that effect the cheap kit some garages have says no fault code found I want to get t sorted as the cars only done 46k and is like new and thats how I want it to stay oh yes the little blue filter at the back of the engines been changed every 4k and now had the new bmw upgraded helical one fitted and the small breather pipes been replaced anys suggestions welcome
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Hi have you checked the EGR solenoid valve hose, I thought mine was ok but when I took a closer look it had been burnt/rubbed through on the hot water pipe pics below.
Changed it and all was ok, it may not be this for you but worth checking.
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Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.
I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.
The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.
My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.
The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.
So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.
For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.
Good luck !
If Kungfu is still about, i'd just like to say thank you for the original post in this thread. Sorted out my Freelander lovely.
Thanks Buddy
SnapBrokeIt
New Member
Ditto, thanks Kungfu; split pipe but will now be checking the solenoid too...
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Please check all pipe coming and going from the solenoid first, link below but I think you maybe able to get it cheaper google the code is best I would say unless someone knows a cheaper place and posts it up Arctic2
Solenoid Valve for Land Rover Freelander 1 Td4 2.0 Diesel STC4198 - 2001
