Photos of clean brakes !
DSC_1171.JPG DSC_1172.JPG
Then this went and happened !!
There is some pressure in that steering pump - soaked an area a couple of feet from the car, just happened to be where I had stacked my tools ready to put away !!

DSC_1175.JPG
Got to remove the rack from the donor first so that will remind me what to do ! It is simple on that one as I can climb into the empty engine bay. If I don't post again it will be because the bonnet slammed shut ! :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
Yes. Me. It's possible. Actually it's no more difficult to so the V6 rack over the TD4. Removed the inlet plenum, and you'll have as much room as the TD4, with its air box in place. ;)
Click to expand...

Figured you might have !!! Thanks - shows it can be done !

Which bit is the inlet plenum ? (petrol engine - not accustomed!) and what does it help with by removing it - is it worthwhile? Spotted the heat shield for the rack and RAVE says remove coolant rail from engine block - can't see this at all.

Not a job to start tonight I feel.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Which bit is the inlet plenum ? (petrol engine - not accustomed!)
Click to expand...
The big black thing on top of the engine, with the 6 pipes moulded in. It hangs over the back of the engine, hampering the access, although more for seeing, over getting hands in. You access the rack bolts from the track rod holes in the wings. There's only 4 mount bolts and the 2 pipes, which are the worst bit. Once you've got the rack free, the whole assembly slides out the inner wing. I removed it through the driver's side inner wing hole, as that made most sense to me. It a ball-ache to change, but I don't think it's any more difficult to do than the TD4, as that's a ball ache too. The 1.8 rack is the easiest to access.

andyfreelandy said:
Spotted the heat shield for the rack and RAVE says remove coolant rail from engine block - can't see this at all.
Click to expand...
 
andyfreelandy said:
Heat shield and coolant rail to come off or not necessary? Thanks.
Click to expand...

You'll be lucky to get the heat shield off, and there's no external coolant rail on the KV6. ;)

You can undo the RH engine mount and upper tie bar, so you can tip the engine forwards an inch or two, by placing a jack under the rear of the sump, to give more room.
 
Thanks! Taking it one step at a time. I have confirmed that the bolts to the bulkhead loosen ok. That was my concern as that could have been a real headache if they sheared. Pipe unions are so rusted in that I am going to remove rack with pipes fitted and due to space will probs replace with pipes fitted if I can. Need to make a sleeve to split the 'quick release' connector. We shall see if it is!!! Happy the car is not a scrapper. Hope steering pump not damaged as it did run for a while with no fluid whilst I worked out what the doodah was going on.
 
I have a couple of spares, should you need a replacement pump.... they’re from a ZR, but they seem identical to the one in the FL1 :)
 
rob_bell said:
I have a couple of spares, should you need a replacement pump.... they’re from a ZR, but they seem identical to the one in the FL1 :)
Click to expand...
I think Andy is doing the V6 rack, so the pump is different to the normal K series one.

Andy
I do, or did have a spare V6 PS pump, which I can look out if you're desperate. I can't think where it is at this morning in time though.
 
Thanks gents. Will do rack and see what the pump does. It certainly was throwing a good pressure. You should see the steering fluid across the workshop!!
 
Lets just say I'm glad I wasn't checking the front tyre pressure with the engine running when it dumped its load out of the track rod hole!! Lubs the arm going in though! o_O
 
andyfreelandy said:
Thanks gents. Will do rack and see what the pump does. It certainly was throwing a good pressure. You should see the steering fluid across the workshop!!
Click to expand...

andyfreelandy said:
Lets just say I'm glad I wasn't checking the front tyre pressure with the engine running when it dumped its load out of the track rod hole!! Lubs the arm going in though! o_O
Click to expand...
Now have I got a PS fluid mess story for you. I bought a new MG SZ180 back in December 2002. I picked it up with just 17 miles on the clock. The wife decided we would go to Plymouth for the day in it, to get acquainted with it. I was thoroughly enjoying my KV6 powered blast down the Cornish A roads on the way to Plymouth. However as I rounded the last roundabout before crossing the Taymar, there was a huge cloud of thick smoke from under the bonnet, and the steering suddenly tightened to the point it was un-driveable. I limped it to the side of the road to have a look at the problem. I popped the bonnet, and was confronted with a new KV6 engine, absolutely covered in PS fluid. Not happy I called the RAC, who towed it back to the garage that I picked it up from that morning. On investigation, it turned out that the high pressure PS pipe that runs past the crank pulley, was in fact rubbing on the pulley, which after 68 miles, had worn through.

The garage had to order the pipe, then fit it and clean off the deluge of PS fluid with a steam cleaner.

So not really an experience I fancy repeating, as I put a dampener on my first and favourite new car. :(
 
Nodge68 said:
Now have I got a PS fluid mess story for you. I bought a new MG SZ180 back in December 2002. I picked it up with just 17 miles on the clock. The wife decided we would go to Plymouth for the day in it, to get acquainted with it. I was thoroughly enjoying my KV6 powered blast down the Cornish A roads on the way to Plymouth. However as I rounded the last roundabout before crossing the Taymar, there was a huge cloud of thick smoke from under the bonnet, and the steering suddenly tightened to the point it was un-driveable. I limped it to the side of the road to have a look at the problem. I popped the bonnet, and was confronted with a new KV6 engine, absolutely covered in PS fluid. Not happy I called the RAC, who towed it back to the garage that I picked it up from that morning. On investigation, it turned out that the high pressure PS pipe that runs past the crank pulley, was in fact rubbing on the pulley, which after 68 miles, had worn through.

The garage had to order the pipe, then fit it and clean off the deluge of PS fluid with a steam cleaner.

So not really an experience I fancy repeating, as I put a dampener on my first and favourite new car. :(
Click to expand...
While trying to figure out what a SZ180 was :p I came across this.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/shed-of-the-week/shed-of-the-week-mg-zs180/38493
Very nice write up. :)
 
If anyone wants a mechanically fit if bodily tired 5dr ZS120, let me know - the outlaws are selling their's and it really is a hoot to drive :D
 
V6 rack is now off. What did I learn? Should take track rod ends off even if they need slicing off as they catch on every pipe and cable on the way out!! Heatshield had to come off as couldn't get rack off end of steering column with it in place. Two nuts and the only ones on this car not to require a jack hammer to remove! Fluid leak is at the union. May be pipe or rack failure but changing whole thing. Had to take pipes off but pulled it across to make it easier to remove them. Quick release connector is not too bad with a plastic pipe cut then slide in the free the lugs off. Pleased it is out. Just a donor rack to remove and have got new track rod joints to fit AFTER rack is in! Very oily mess to clean up now. Also, based on experience from TD4 rack change. I tied the steering wheel to stop it rotating and knackering the internal clock spring cable.
 
Got the replacement rack in. Tricky bit is lining up the splines on the column whilst ensuring rack is centred and pushing it fully home while keeping uj on column straight. Various bits of wood wedging it and tapping the column on then moving the packing allowed the bolts to go in finger tight. Old rack may just be a burst pipe but rack cylinder is pretty rusty so it has gone on the scrap pile. Just got track rod ends to fit. I measured the threads with a vernier before dismantling to set tracking back to roughly right. Willbe getting a full 4 wheel alignment due to work done. Not a pleasant job but doable. Rack off and replacement in took about 5 hrs inc tea breaks! Heat sheild off helped as I could rotate and feed it along from underneath. Lets hope that is it now! Will finish over the weekend and check pump and for leaks. Noticed part no on the V6 is QAB 102364 and the TD4 is QAB 000300 but have found a parts list that shows them all being compatible. Anyone know what the different numbers are? For reference it seems that if you set the rack end to track rod end gap to 33mm +/- 0.1mm you'll be able to drive to the nearest tyre centre for a check. Hopefully next and final post will be MOT details. Thanks to all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Philgt50
Rear brakes TD4
2
Replies
26
Views
931
Philgt50
Philgt50
Z
Freelander 1 TD4 Automatic transmisson and shift selector
Replies
6
Views
421
Hippo
Hippo
H
Rear Driveshaft seized in hub
Replies
1
Views
401
Nodge68
Nodge68
J
F1: leaking rear diff - repairable?
Replies
2
Views
360
JackGriffin1933
J
xDParis64
Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 Clutch replacement difficulty?
Replies
5
Views
400
Hippo
Hippo