Ha ha ha, good man. So, can you check with some of the suggestions and see if we can trace your hesitation? Did you get the swaying sorted out yet?
Ha ha ha, good man. So, can you check with some of the suggestions and see if we can trace your hesitation? Did you get the swaying sorted out yet?
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
you will need a timing strobe, a couple of spanners and maybe a dab of white paint / liquid paper / tippex and a marker pen.
under the distributor is a nut 15mm if I recall if you slacken it off the distributor rotates to advance and retard the timing.
before you start, check the book setting for timing position and the timing set process
1. mark the current setting to a point on the engine (not the distributor) with the marker pen.
2. get your ass under the front and remove the splash guard to get access to the pulley
3. clean the pulley and you'll see the timing markings. there's no point even getting the strobe out unless you can see the markings
4. put a little dab of white on where the correct angle should be if you choose.
5.look down from the top (distributor) and you'll see a pin / marker for you to set he timing up to.
6. slacken the distributor clamp with the 15mm spanner. you've marked the position where it was so if you balls up you can go bck to where you were
7.set up the strobe light, making sure cables are out of the way of spinning things
8. start her up, remove the vac hose and shine the strobe light on to the pulley from the top, you'll see the white mark. at the stated rpm turn the distributor until the correct advance / retard angle is in line with the pin/marker.
stop engine
tighten clamp., reattach vac hose. timing should be set
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
surplus
Active Member
I would like to resurrect this post I fixed the misfire I was having. One of the spark plug wires had corrosion on it from moisture getting in the distributor cap holes, and I replace the wire and cap and its fixed. As for the swaying I have replaced the radius arm top and bottom bushing like discussed earlier in the thread, and I have also replaced the rear ball joint and the upper control arm bushings on the link. Its still ****ing swaying 
. I read that the transfer case uses a viscous coupling, and I was wondering if that could cause my problem? Other than that the only thing I could think of would be my CV Joints as I know those are bad, but I didn't think it could cause a sway but maybe since it is four wheel drive. Also when I turn sharp the front wheels get out of wack with the back causing the front to spin and squeal could this be a sign of the viscous coupling being shot or is it supposed to do that. Also would I be able to drive without the front drive shaft connected to see if the problem still persist with only the rear wheels spinning or would it be impossible to drive without it because of the way the transfer case is setup?
. I read that the transfer case uses a viscous coupling, and I was wondering if that could cause my problem? Other than that the only thing I could think of would be my CV Joints as I know those are bad, but I didn't think it could cause a sway but maybe since it is four wheel drive. Also when I turn sharp the front wheels get out of wack with the back causing the front to spin and squeal could this be a sign of the viscous coupling being shot or is it supposed to do that. Also would I be able to drive without the front drive shaft connected to see if the problem still persist with only the rear wheels spinning or would it be impossible to drive without it because of the way the transfer case is setup?
I would like to resurrect this post I fixed the misfire I was having. One of the spark plug wires had corrosion on it from moisture getting in the distributor cap holes, and I replace the wire and cap and its fixed. As for the swaying I have replaced the radius arm top and bottom bushing like discussed earlier in the thread, and I have also replaced the rear ball joint and the upper control arm bushings on the link. Its still ****ing swaying
From your description VCU maybe seizing. Lift one front wheel and put a socket and longish bar on a wheel nut. Apply around 60 lb ft of steady pressure to bar, wheel should turn slowly. If it will not move at all VCU is seized.
Have you got uneven wear on yer tires/tyres? VCU sounds nackeredI would like to resurrect this post I fixed the misfire I was having. One of the spark plug wires had corrosion on it from moisture getting in the distributor cap holes, and I replace the wire and cap and its fixed. As for the swaying I have replaced the radius arm top and bottom bushing like discussed earlier in the thread, and I have also replaced the rear ball joint and the upper control arm bushings on the link. Its still ****ing swaying
surplus
Active Member
The swaYing is causing uneven wear on the tire I put brand new ones on it thinking that might be part of it and now they are wore out uneven and it didn't effect it at all
surplus
Active Member
Will definitely try that out when I get home
It's not the swaying, it's the VCU locking and not letting the wheels turn at different speeds when you are turning.
surplus
Active Member
Yeah but I think the VCU is making the car jerk over when releasing the gas peddle and getting on the gas peddle its like when you let off the gas the front driver side wheel gets a bunch of power to it for a few seconds causing the car to jerk you over that way then when you get on the gas it gives the passenger side front wheel gets a ton of power for a few second jerking you that way if that makes sense. Also keep in mind im in the US so its backwards for you guys.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
sounds more like play in a axle bush allowing axle to move
surplus
Active Member
Well ive taken it to two different shops and neither could see any movement in any bushings and ive also done some test myself and couldnt see anything. Im gonna try to test the VCU and see what happens though I have no way of doing a precise torque spec on it. Im also gonna try to get one of my bud's to let me borrow their go pro and strap it to the frame and record both the rear and front and see if I can see anything I will upload the video once I get it recorded. It will probably be next weekend when I get the chance but I will update when I do get the chance
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
torque steer is usually play in an axle bush including rear A frame ,a seized vc is obvious it wont turn whereas an unseized one will slowly ,though i never known it to cause torque steer tyre wear and wheel spin on gravel etc
surplus
Active Member
The A frame is where the ball joint is correct? If so the ball joint and the upper bushings have been replaced on it
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes top fixing on the rear axle
surplus
Active Member
Yes those have been replaced they didnt even look bad and didnt have movement but we replaced them anyway as well as the ball joint the old one was shot. It made no difference
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
perhaps but if you have torque steer something must be moving
surplus
Active Member
Yes of course I will try and get the go pro under to see if anything can be seen moving should be clear as day as the jerking is almost enough to throw you off the road and it only happens at speeds higher than 45 or 50 anything slower and it wont do it at all.
surplus
Active Member
I jacked the passenger side front wheel and put a breaker bar on the lug nut and put almost all my weight on the end of the breaker bar and the wheel didnt spin at all not sure if thats what I was supposed to do to check the vcu but yeah i put about what I thought was 60 ft lb and it didnt budge either
Thats not good news
