So it could be the pump? Usually it starts fine
I Have nanocom but no idea what to look for?
With the very able assistance of Odyssey's nanocom mine showed no faults whatsoever. It had previously for a bad injector (turned out to be a broken wire) but nothing for the fuel issue.

Also followed a thread by Xbrit on rangerovers.net and asked the question having read the post:

FRESHMAN ROVER
Join Date
April 3rd, 2008
Location
Monroe WA USA
Posts
40
Garage

Re: P38 starting issues
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by zorro587
Hi mate,

I've just read your thread about starting issues with your P38. Mine has exactly the same issue: couple of cranks, rough running for 20 secs or so, then all's fine.

Did you get to the bottom of the problem? Did you swap your fuel pump, and if so, did that cue the starting issues?

Any input welcome.

Nige
Just read your issue I had the fuel pump replaced and it did cure the issue.
Cheers
Mike

So, just like me then......and you probably.
 
Yep ta think I will get a new pump then
It does run fine as soon as it starts tho
 
Kinda points to crankshaft sensor .fine when cold not so good when hot .even an ohm tester can be fooled .
 
To ease your worried wallet, I had replaced crankshaft sensor in mine but my starting issue remained.
 
Had a camshaft sensor go once but that would fail when it got hot, i.e. at speed!
 
The times it doesn't start it is almost as if it nearly started but just failed to catch
 
Now then, I have a 97 4.6 hse and had a similar problem. The fuel pipes above the tank had corroded and were leaking but I couldn't see it until it got so back fuel leaked onto the floor one day. Try putting your ignition on twice so the pump primes up the petrol and see if it starts on the button. Lack of fuel pressure will stop it starting!
 
Thanks for that and makes sense
I will try that
and try see the pipes too
 
I take it you mean the thing that does it rather than the operation itself
 
Update
I had to call out breakdown when she wouldn't start in Knutsworth Services.
Fuel pressure was fine but no spark
Turned out that engine was immobilised due to stray RF signals as after locking and unlocking and starting quickly she fired no problem
 
Yes, anyone without the latest RF receiver is just a step away from disaster.
 
Upgraded one work ok?
Expensive?
I know there is a fix to stop it draining battery on here, but that wouldn't fix my problem?
 
Got my endoscope today
What a superb piece of kit for a tenner
Thanks for suggestion
When driving car at odd times the doors decide to lock and then immediately unlock
I wonder if this is linked
 
Upgraded one work ok?
Expensive?
I know there is a fix to stop it draining battery on here, but that wouldn't fix my problem?

I've had no issues since fitting mine. The cost in recent years is silly. Brian's remote switch works well but not sure about the doors locking and unlocking as going along. That sounds like an earth wire issue or maybe the lock rod thingy binding somewhere? Have you got Marty's lock tests?
 
Got my endoscope today
What a superb piece of kit for a tenner
Thanks for suggestion
When driving car at odd times the doors decide to lock and then immediately unlock
I wonder if this is linked
Try stripping and cleaning your boot button , they give door locking/unlocking problems
 

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