As for the 'K' engine it is actualy a very good engine if treated correctly, the head bolts arn't at the correct torque until the engine is at full opperating temp and if the engine is reved to high when cold it will cause the head to move and blow the HG. The pillock who thought plastic dowls would be ok should be put up against a wall and shot the same should be done to the HG desighner.
 
As for the 'K' engine it is actualy a very good engine if treated correctly, the head bolts arn't at the correct torque until the engine is at full opperating temp and if the engine is reved to high when cold it will cause the head to move and blow the HG. The pillock who thought plastic dowls would be ok should be put up against a wall and shot the same should be done to the HG desighner.

You are my new HERO!:)

And I know I'll get wrong for saying it again, but, Late K's fitted with the mod's haven't had a HGF yet......
 
You are my new HERO!:)

And I know I'll get wrong for saying it again, but, Late K's fitted with the mod's haven't had a HGF yet......
Oy you can pack that in i'll have all the tratta boy's after me and the disco boy's (and girls Bell) will disown me if they think im in wiv you gaylander lot FFS :D:D

Im just saying as i find realy, i have worked on loads of 'K' engines some race ones putting out over 200 horses and loads of road going ones, and i can honestly say once fitted fitted with th MLS HG and a light head skim ive never had one come back, not for a HG any way :D
 
well done anguslives,ive enjoyed this post,good luck with your k series freelander and for keeping your cool and geting on with you hgf,certain people on here like to slag newbies off but you fended them off well,respect!!! from another angus
 
Back in the house now as the winds picked up again, but the exhaust manifold is back on as it the belt, chuck filters on tomorrow morning and flush the system..... Off down to asda to get me some cheap oil not using the good stuff!!

So tomorrow is D day!!:eek:
 
Blimey I ought to pop back more often.....

MHM, you are one of the many who do throw good and well intentioned advice on the forums. Some just like to sit back, fart and slag orf.....

I agree about the 500miles, but this is the first time I have seen a K series seriously tackled. Mind you thats only been 2 years :D

Angus, I'll look in tomorrow with much interest ;)
 
Morning gentlemen, shame on you mad hat, already your talking about issues and I aint even turned the key!!!:p

But yes I will be keeping an eye or two on her over the next few days/weeks/months/years!!!

Worse case is I have to take her apart again and redo the liners, then so be it. It's only time "but think of the petrol savings I'd make:):)"
 
As requested these are the photo's I've taken to date.

These show the engine in various stages, some before cleaning, some during, as you can see most traces of gunk have been removed during assembly to help with engine flush at the end.

You will also notice that the head was fully stripped down (new sealant visible) no impressions made on the face and skimmed.

One picture shows the old and new Oil Rail next to the sump, you can see the new unit is much thicker, note it actually fits in reverse to the old unit (see bolt threads).

As mentioned whilst cleaning I tried a few different solvents "white board cleaner" worked great in cleaning the sump and liners. The sump isn't fitted with a gasket and your required to use some sealant paste (again in photo) heating this up provided much easier application to the sump.

Picture of head bolt, clearly shows stamp, I've been advised if it doesn't have the stamp on top not to use and it's a cheap part and will cause issues at a later date.

Also a picture of the items I'm replacing, since the engines done 48K I'm changing the timing belt & wheel, replacing the plugs and filters, I think it makes sense to do it all now, MOT due June.
 

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Few more photo's added.

Shows the sod that is the engine guard, thought that if at least if I put a picture on it might help the removal of these buggers, Tip ignore rivets and remove the bolts "works wonders" I figured that all out by myself..... Finally.

Chuck away oil and flush for both water and oil system.

New Timing belt fitted and wheel.

Picture of the PRT (the upgraded thermostat) if you don't know what it looks like and wonder if your Freelander has one, well that it.
 

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Sod off can't a bloke have a moment......

It's working!!!!!

It's not leaking Water!!!

It's not leaking oil!!!!

Finished around 4ish but had to washing the drive down and then done the cars, no major worries as yet, took it out on three drives so far, no signs of oil and water mixing so that's good.

Will keep an eye on things over the next few days just in case but looking good:)

Going to treat the family to KFC, so off out again.....

Here's a question for you then, how long would you wait before checking head bolts again - 500 miles???
 
Well been out today and still no issues, timing was a little out only noticed whilst on motorway, checked but took wheel off this time to make sure mark was centre turned out was a tooth out but sorted now and running goooooood.:)
 
DD3

If your's is the 2001, then you've got the old Oil rail ladder and Gasket..... Sorry!!

The ladder would be straight forward if not for the brace that sits over one of the sump bolts.... thats the bugger.

But 97k is good going, have you had any problems? I'm going to warm her up first and will check air in waterpipes for a period just to see if anything is getting trapped as I've read about that on here.

Great to hear that you are up and running again - please keep us posted. I've replaced VCU, heater matrix and loads of bits and pieces most would not do (I'm fussy). I have a Q, prob a daft one but can you tell visually that you now have MSL gasket fitted, can you see it? I have owned my FL from 70k and have no service record, so could gasket have already been updated?
 
can you tell visually that you now have MSL gasket fitted, can you see it? I have owned my FL from 70k and have no service record, so could gasket have already been updated?

No you can't tell unless you take of the head, your going to be in the same boat as me, I've loads of service history, but like most jobs on cars they only get changed when it's needed not because there is something new that's replaced the old.

If you'd have bought it off me I would have told you, you'd prob do the same helps with the price....

Only thing I can think of is perhaps if the heads been off some firms mark the head (front or rear) with marker pen, if you can find some writing on it then perhaps?

saying that 70k is good on the old style so who knows!?

But only one way to find out!!!! Sorry.
 
Nice to read that someone can be bothered to fix a problem rather than scrap it.
I read an article from somebody who builds 'K' series engines for racing, he seems to think the multiple head gasket failure is caused by the engine over heating enough to soften the aliuminium which is hardened when the engine was first built. If your engine didn't overheat badly you might not have another failure.
I tried locating the article but haven't found it yet.
 

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