Paulmitchell1984 said:
iv got two of the redtops from Marc still got one to fit as my 2nd battery but need to buy the cabling, good choice and in winter I noticed a BIG difference for start up
Click to expand...

That's good to know pal thanks, although I must admit I think the diesel is harder to start than the v8, mine really spins over quick with a new starter on whereas the diesel is always a slower startup. This is due to compression no doubt.
 
200tdi ayre said:
I'm getting 2 odessys for mine :D were agents for the battery company that supplies them so I get them at a good price ;)
Click to expand...

I had previously looked at Odyssey batteries, also very nice.

Is there another firm that make red batteries that are similar to Odyssey?

Yes that's the one, Varley! Anyway yeah had always expected to end up with Odyssey if these Optimas hadn't shown up.

Haha, have you seen the price of Braille batteries?! :eek:
 
On that subject, pretty long session in the shop tonight, most of it was spent working on a "secret project" :p but I did manage to get the new batts fitted, although I forgot any pictures! :rolleyes:

Must try harder next time!
 
Mr Noisy said:
That's good to know pal thanks, although I must admit I think the diesel is harder to start than the v8, mine really spins over quick with a new starter on whereas the diesel is always a slower startup. This is due to compression no doubt.
Click to expand...

derv needs like double the power!

I started my V8 with a mini battery yet you definitely wouldn't be able to do that on the derv due to compression as you say
 
Just started working on an upgrade headlamp wiring loom, suitable for up to 480w at 12v!

Basically the 200 doesn't have headlamp relays so the voltage can get down in the 10s which is NO GOOD!

I have 100w bulbs fitted and they're not getting the voltage they need for full potential!

Anyway so this is a quick diagram I scribbled to help me decide what I need, will take the relay power and earth straight from main YellowTop battery and the switch power from the existing headlamp connectors, then connect the new bulb holders to the relay outputs (one for high beam one for low beam) and earth from the battery also.

Getting sockets etc from VWP to make it a nice professional job:

null_zpsc6f42db8.jpg


Expecting much brighter lights this winter!

Might treat it to new headlamp lenses aswell, if deemed necessary! :D
 
discomark10 said:
coz he don't need to :D
Click to expand...

...but you're right Mark.

Upon looking at that link, I don't need 4 relays for a start!

Otherwise it's identical, simple really I guess.

Another difference is I'm using feeds from both original lamp sockets and wiring them in parallel so that if I lose a feed the other one will still keep the lights on.

Mainly I don't like unplugged plugs so it'll keep my brain sane too :D

Ordered all try stuff today so we'll start throwing this together next week hopefully :)
 
Regards that fuse Mark, yeah that's an idea but I have found them to get a little warm sometimes if the quality is not the best.

As it happens I have a spare megafuse holder running off the YellowTop which used to run to the winch before I decided against the idea for voltage loss reasons.

Got a 40amp megafuse sorted so the jobs a goodun :)
 
Ah I see, very nice, yeah cant deny that's a good idea, but I won't be doing it.

Chances of blowing a fuse/relay is slim and I prefer ultimate simplicity where possible :)

Plus, you just know it'll be fine using a relay for each circuit.

Arguably you could say each circuit should be fused at 20 amp instead of having them both fused at 40amp, because of course either circuit is then fused at 40amp, but I guess I'm reckless like that :rolleyes:
 
'be reet I said as the thing burns to the ground :D

Might look at individual fusing, I HATE inline holders, couldn't get the correct fused relays I wanted... meh :rolleyes:
 
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