flat
Well-Known Member
Lol i got another mate with a supercharged Daimler
they love their big block big power motors.The Aston is a work of art. Not concourse as he actually drives it but, damn, had custom fuel rails made out of tig'd stainless steel all polished. Everything is perfect. It's a seriously nice motor.
The best bit is when you rev it in neutral the whole car rocks.
not unless you put a hell of a big cam in it........... wish full thinking
Dr_evil
Banned
Heres the axle had to dismantle it so I could get it out by myself as I had no engine hoist
So that was the subframe off and then onto the CV drive shafts! These things are very beefy 1 1/4" thick solid steel
Other one off
One bare diff with brakes it also has a disc handbrake on this diff so that means I can do away with the standard brake drum and gain about two extra inches on the prop length
One free brand new 4.0L Jag V8 radiator with fan and oil cooler…….may swap it into the series if its not too wide
Not sure if you can make it out here but it says 3.54 on this so need to swap out the front diff when this goes on! But its a nice LSD diff inside
Then I dropped it on my finger got ****ed off and stopped messing with it
Anyway onto the drive shafts, hubs and other free bits. Leather steering wheel off a jag, new bearings, flexi-brake lines and seals too and the hubs/shafts are 10 spline so some salisbury rear ones may just fit!
The UJ's also have more than enough angle to allow me to lift up the diff 2" or slightly more in order to bring the drive line closer to 180*
One free Valeo 140A alternator
had to dismantle it so I could get it out by myself as I had no engine hoist 
So that was the subframe off and then onto the CV drive shafts! These things are very beefy
1 1/4" thick solid steel
Other one off
One bare diff with brakes
it also has a disc handbrake on this diff so that means I can do away with the standard brake drum and gain about two extra inches on the prop length 
One free brand new 4.0L Jag V8 radiator with fan and oil cooler…….may swap it into the series if its not too wide
Not sure if you can make it out here but it says 3.54 on this
so need to swap out the front diff when this goes on! But its a nice LSD diff inside 
Then I dropped it on my finger
got ****ed off and stopped messing with it
Anyway onto the drive shafts, hubs and other free bits. Leather steering wheel off a jag, new bearings, flexi-brake lines and seals too and the hubs/shafts are 10 spline so some salisbury rear ones may just fit!
The UJ's also have more than enough angle to allow me to lift up the diff 2" or slightly more in order to bring the drive line closer to 180*
One free Valeo 140A alternator
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Dr_evil
Banned
I'm building it into a solid casing, Atomic style as the UJ's have more than enough angle in them to allow me at least 2" of lift within the axle
I may add in a some extra UJ's on the diff end in order to further raise it but we'll see
I'll sketch up the design later but it'll mount to the leafs as the original one does
I may add in a some extra UJ's on the diff end in order to further raise it but we'll see
I'll sketch up the design later
but it'll mount to the leafs as the original one doeslooking at those shafts i'll bet they're not designed to run a 2-2.5" droop on a permanent basis, they look too short to survive the stresses that'll be imparted ... i'd have thought to give them a chance of surviving the uj's would need to be at 45* to each other (i'm not an engineer so i'm only guessing on the angle) or are you thinking of turning them into double cardon ??
cv's would definitely outlast those but that would be chucking another problem into the mix
cv's would definitely outlast those but that would be chucking another problem into the mix
Dr_evil
Banned
Possibly not but I shall see what they can survive, they are pretty beefy! Not exactly hard to beef them up but they are solid shafts UJ's are pretty big too
I was planning on going double on the diff end like the toyota axles
I'll be building them into a cranked casing will get a design uploaded later and transfer it to solidworks once I have a bare casing to use as a datum
Dr_evil
Banned
A little scrape and you whining like a gurl
I was a little worried about the front one but given the jag axle is designed to take far more torque than the LR one it should hopefully be ok even with the 35's
Worse case is I just upgrade to 24 spline hubs off a later jag as the props are all interchangeable
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
ujs are correctly phased , if both flanges prop fits between arent parallel then props ujs are sset out of phase
weight, mass,and centrifugal force of 35 is way more than what jag tryes generate, by a 2-3 times
Dr_evil
Banned
I'd do the calculations to get the correct amount but I really cba, either way 24 spline isn't a hard upgrade to do on those just swap the flange end off for one of the newer ones
i've no argument with your statement (i'm not sure i understand it) but i was considering the permanent angle/droop where when the uj's are both positioned thus "X" on each quarter revolution there'll be quite high stresses placed on the uj needle races
whereas if one is "X" and the other is "+" then i feel it may reduce the stress
the length of those shafts and the amount of droop is where i see the problem, longer shafts would reduce the stress but of course we're limited by the axle width
of course i may be talking out of my arse and if so i hold my hands up
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
ujs obviously have a limit of angle they can cope with ,but if you look at front prop on a landy you will see diff flange and t/box flange arent in parallel hence fronts are out of phase if they were as they would be as rear drive shafts then they would be set in phase , phasing is not angle prop runs through but the angle of flanges in relation to each other
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
I think your on about the distance out of alignment with regard to the axis of both flanges. (parallel, but not on same axis)
this is assuming the hubs get attached parallel to the diff
