So heres a fairly rough axle case design, need to get hold of an old axle in order to get proper dimensions but fairly simple four piece axle :)


The case has the diff fitted inside via eight bolts and then three cover plates bolt on over the top. These cover plates allow me to get access to the UJ's in order to grease them, service the brakes, drop the oil in the diff etc :D and raises up the pinion by 2" meaning I can run a slightly lower angle prop combined with the 2" extension I'll get by removing the LT230 handbrake drum seeing as I no longer need it


 
That's emm some fancy computer stuff you've got goin on there. What happened to using a pencil and paper, 's what I do :eek:
 
That's emm some fancy computer stuff you've got goin on there. What happened to using a pencil and paper, 's what I do :eek:

I sketched it roughly on A3 first, in fact if I get bored during the week I may do a full set of hand drawn engineering sketches :p they're not hard to do once you get used to it
 
Its central so I'll have to extend one of the drive shafts slightly, not measured the shafts lengths yet but its essentially a LR diff inside with locker so could get it into a normal sal axle casing I'd think
 
Looks the wrong way round :scratching_chin:

Unless you is looking at it from the front :D :D :D:p
 
Its central so I'll have to extend one of the drive shafts slightly, not measured the shafts lengths yet but its essentially a LR diff inside with locker so could get it into a normal sal axle casing I'd think
so is it narrower than a series track?
 
so is it narrower than a series track?

No once built up its the same width as a series one, the hubs are quite long



Now been talking to someone and thinking about making the rear axle a tiny bit wider than standard to act like it was spaced…….however would it make it a bit awkward to control if the rear axle was wider than the front….if so I'll be keeping it the same width
 
Just drawn up a modified to do list :eek: well its just under a side of A4 and 75% are small jobs such as finishing the rear tub bolts, fitting the seats and wiring stuff up
 
Only a couple of pics as it started ****ing it down and I didn't want to take my phone out after that :eek:


Anyway I've used M4 stainless bolts on the rear tub instead of rivets……hate rivets :mad: but on the plus side I bought a diddy little spanner :)


Also found out with a tiny bit of trimming the V8 Jag radiator will fit so the honda ones getting drained and I'm fitting the Jag one. Better to overcool than undercool plus the Jag one has a fan fitted already which means I don't have to make a bracket



 
They say the last 10% takes 90% of the time, I know this all to well from my own project.
Thought I only had a couple of days work and a month down the line I had only just finished it. I did kind of loose interest for a bit though, Which didn't help. Just plod of and you'll get there In the end :)

Oh and use rivets, Will look betterer than bolts. Get your self a set of lazy tongs or some long arm ones and they're a doddle.
I got my self one of these.
RIVNUT TOOL + RIVETTER LONG ARM M4 - M10 | eBay
and it made life much easier. Although I didn't pay that,
Oh and it has the advantage of doing rivnuts :p
 
Oh and use rivets, Will look betterer than bolts.

Rivets do look better than hex headed bolts but for the best of both worlds get some button headed bolts
cc715e60ffdb7ac8b65150b6edbf2c3a.jpg


They're actually screws not bolts by the way if you want to be pedantic
 
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haha yeah its definitely taking longer now but at least I'm working on it more or less daily :D rain or shine!

I like the look of the bolt heads they look a lot more in keeping with the rest of my series :D I need it done and through MOT by the end of feb so getting a proper move on and I'll be building the axle casing inside the shed so I can get some hours in once I sort the rest of the build out :D tomorrow should be an easy enough day though…..well I hope! How hard can fitting a snorkel be :eek:
 
Wasn't being pedantic. Genuine question. When does a screw become a bolt :confused:

Lol sorry mate that wasn't addressed directly at you just a general observation :)
Some say it's to do with where the threaded area starts/stops and if it has a unthreaded shank
 

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