I have a spare removeable galv gearbox crossmember going for free if you can collect it or have it collected, that would be a reasonable upgrade if you do keep going with the original chassis.
 
Actually was intending making that modification Bruce, so that the gearbox could be dropped out, rather than extracted through the cab.
Also much weather and muck was sitting in that cross member, so away going to replace the bottom was out must be thinner anyway.
May I ask furryboots you are in scotlandshire ?
Did cut the newly fabricated leg for a rough fit yesterday
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Just pm me if you want it, happy to give you as long as you can organise collection, its a new galv one that they replaced because the original didn't have the 6 pot tie rod on.it by mistake.
Its just lying around and I can't think of any further use for it, might save you a few hours in fabricating one
 
That looks great, I pm'd you.
Making up the N\S leg while awaiting for the thicker 4mm steel plate to come.
I'll be really ****ed off its not actually 4mm thick lol.
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Will have some heat distortion which has pulled the top edges together to correct before welding the top plate look to complete the box section
 
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A cross section of a cut off bit showing good weld penetration. I'm happy with that.

Still building the N\S front leg
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I just can't wait to be getting new dumb irons made, and the front of the chassis rebuilt. Then it can go onto a trailor and be able to be moved about again. It's been too long hogging the garage and a static thing.
I need to be able to turn it upside down and get 360° access.
 
Thank you sir,
The 4mm metal did arrive yesterday and out with the micrometer
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Measured in several places , not quite what I got sold. But was the old dumb irons actually 3.7 + 0.3 rust ??
If the steel sheet is 3.7mm thick, why do they sell it as 4.0mm ? I must be missing something. But it was not cheap, so I'll ask for some money back as I didn't get all the metal I paid for, they'll question that, measure it themselves, find It's true, question their manufacturer, who'll tell them it's within tolerances, and maybe they will give me some money back.
I believe they should state the tolerances at point of sale.
End of rant lol
 
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Continuing on with the N/S front rail fab.
Happy with the full weld penetration I can see from inside as below
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Achieved by welding into angled and thus thinner edges.
Still deciding if the plate will do for the dumb irons
 
Planning on making 3mm ply wood patterns for the original pattern dumb irons
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If I trim 3mm off the wooden patterns, With an old speaker magnet holding the pattern to the plate, the plasma cutter could just be run round in one continuous cut.
Well it's a plan lol
 
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The caravans the perfect place for doing this, the inside line is 3mm smaller and will be the cut line to allow for the plasma cutter head running 3mm outside of the wooden edge.
The dog likes it in here too
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Will go back and measure the holes now so I can mark up what size drill bit. Probably just have a 3mm pilot hole through the wooden patterns and marked which drill size to finish with that way if they get used for another project I'll not forget.

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Time to get the coping saw busy.
 
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This reminds me of wooden model airplane kits I used to get as a kid
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Trying to get a lovely smooth consistent flowing finish, which will hopefully transfer through to the final pieces
 
Drilled the holes with ap pilot, bolted together and finished to keep them with the same profile
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The idea is to hold them in place with magnets.
I have old heard drive magnets, old speaker magnets, and some bought 90/45° ones too
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If I can have the piece held right, then can run round with the plasma cutter.
They are still able to be moved if pushed hard, so maybe drill and bolt would be better ?
 

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There are bend to be accounted for at the bottom of the hanger/iron. Also thick washers are welded on too
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I found these dead grinders washers to be a good size
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With some grinding, and I can use them to copy more from the '4'mm plate, night the inside original is 11.5 and 7 mm
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