BikerB
Well-Known Member
Came across a minor problem, the lug on the chassis for the tie rod from the engine to the gearbox crossmember is missing on the richard chassis.
I had cut off the lug as it was welded on the original, it seems it is like the steering damper that richards expect you to bolt on bracket even though the originals were both welded on.
After refurbishing the tie rod I managed to buy the NOS bolt on bracket but none of the pictures I took show exactly how far from the chassis the bracket would be drilled. I wasn't expecting this to be an issue!
I can work it out later when the engine is fitted but it would be handier to fit and paint the bracket as part of the chassis. Does anyone with a six pot know what the dimension from the inside of the chassis to the centre of the bracket is from measuring their own?
I had cut off the lug as it was welded on the original, it seems it is like the steering damper that richards expect you to bolt on bracket even though the originals were both welded on.
After refurbishing the tie rod I managed to buy the NOS bolt on bracket but none of the pictures I took show exactly how far from the chassis the bracket would be drilled. I wasn't expecting this to be an issue!
I can work it out later when the engine is fitted but it would be handier to fit and paint the bracket as part of the chassis. Does anyone with a six pot know what the dimension from the inside of the chassis to the centre of the bracket is from measuring their own?
Last edited:
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Pulled out the rotisserie today and ordered up some HD tube to make up some chassis mounts. Hopefully by the end of the week I will have the chassis up on the turner, this makes it a bit more mobile and will allow me to prepare and paint the chassis in one go without damaging the paintwork turning it over or around the place.
I will also be able to fit the fuel tank, brake pipes, fuel lines and springs before lowering it back onto stands ready to put the axles back in and start assembling heavier items onto the frame.
it looks like corroless paints are the way to go, will see what I need and try and order them up by the end of the month to paint while the weathers warm.
I will also be able to fit the fuel tank, brake pipes, fuel lines and springs before lowering it back onto stands ready to put the axles back in and start assembling heavier items onto the frame.
it looks like corroless paints are the way to go, will see what I need and try and order them up by the end of the month to paint while the weathers warm.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
When I get to the springs and axles it will need to come off back onto axle stands but at least I can turn and move it around to get everything on till that point without breaking my back, which is bad enough these days as it is
Will need to get the paint ordered up now, think I'll use corroless primer and glass reinforced topcoat unless anybody has something they have used and is better?
Last edited:
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Got the Heritage cert today with has a lot of blanks but confirmed it is an Home market RHD 6 cylinder, was built in 1979 not 1982, went to NI and was Marine Blue.
None of this is a surprise but the DVLA insist on this to change any of the obviously incorrect data on the V5 when it was brought back to the mainland.
Oh and it is not a three door hatchback as the V5 states.
None of this is a surprise but the DVLA insist on this to change any of the obviously incorrect data on the V5 when it was brought back to the mainland.
Oh and it is not a three door hatchback as the V5 states.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Lots going on but little visible progress
Paint ordered, Corroless primer and RF16.
All the exhaust parts ordered right down to the last nut and bolt and Richards supplying a new gearbox crossmember with the correct mountings, starting to look at suspension hardware next.
Still blasting axles slowly and will get there eventually.
Once I can get it painted it should take a jump forward quickly as I am gathering up and sorting out all the parts that can be bolted straight on to get a rolling chassis. Got quite a lot of it already.
Paint ordered, Corroless primer and RF16.
All the exhaust parts ordered right down to the last nut and bolt and Richards supplying a new gearbox crossmember with the correct mountings, starting to look at suspension hardware next.
Still blasting axles slowly and will get there eventually.
Once I can get it painted it should take a jump forward quickly as I am gathering up and sorting out all the parts that can be bolted straight on to get a rolling chassis. Got quite a lot of it already.
Last edited:
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I have all the bits to paint the chassis on order but I have currently got the workshop air pipework in bits, yet another upgrade needed for this project.It's always the prep' and refurbishment that takes so long...re-assembly's the easy part. Good luck with this great project, we all love a 109 six pot
I usually only really build things in the winter - blasting, painting, powdercoating etc and generally don't have much of a problem with water carry over. However the warm weather and the more intensive use I am making of the system are causing some issues with water, its become a pain with blasting the axles and I don't want to spray the chassis with any water through the paint.
So currently in the process of building a copper air dryer/cooler to reduce the water in the system. Built the coil and just awaiting some fittings to rebuild the pipework. Another £100 of parts just to support the Landy. Hopefully by adding these loops and some auto drains in addition to the one already on the receiver I can reduce the carry over to manageable levels.
6pot
Well-Known Member
Great thread Bruce, good to see you getting to grips with the restoration and you're way ahead of what I have got done!Got the Heritage cert today with has a lot of blanks but confirmed it is an Home market RHD 6 cylinder, was built in 1979 not 1982, went to NI and was Marine Blue.
None of this is a surprise but the DVLA insist on this to change any of the obviously incorrect data on the V5 when it was brought back to the mainland.
Oh and it is not a three door hatchback as the V5 states.
Interesting to see in your first post that you have the drivers sliding window missing, I had the same window missing complete with yellowing piece of perspex.
By the way you should find that your chassis number starts 941...
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Richards sent me a replacement gearbox crossmember FOC with the tie rod welded on, well done Richards as that's one problem less to be resolved.
Got the new air system up tonight, no leaks and I just need to connect up the 4 autodumps to power and should be good to go for painting, have all the T wash and paint now.
Got the new air system up tonight, no leaks and I just need to connect up the 4 autodumps to power and should be good to go for painting, have all the T wash and paint now.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Not much happening for a week or two as I was having a nice time on Orkney
Anyway, cleaned all the bird**** off the chassis tonight, filed off all the little zinc tags and flap disc'ed all the proud bits of zinc and cut off some of the tangs and bits that were sticking out waiting to spear me in the head. Washed it down with degreaser and jetwashed it. If the weather looks like its staying dry and >20C as it has for the last few days I will T wash it tomorrow and start painting. Lots of bits can then start getting bolted on and things like brake lines etc run and clipped to the chassis.
Got the air system done so air is pretty dry, just need to get a tarp or something round it to stop painting the house and cars grey and black too
Took the steering relay apart a few days ago to replace the oil seals, everything else looked fine but when I looked at the parts costs I thought it just wasn't worth using most of it again when I already had it apart so I just ordered everything internally without even looking at the original parts closely.
The surprising thing I did find was the internal spring arrived today it was obviously much longer than the original so I checked it against the manual and it was nearly 25mm shorter and 10mm below the minimum allowed length.
I would have found this before I reassembled it but just found it surprising that there was such a difference from use.
Anyway, cleaned all the bird**** off the chassis tonight, filed off all the little zinc tags and flap disc'ed all the proud bits of zinc and cut off some of the tangs and bits that were sticking out waiting to spear me in the head. Washed it down with degreaser and jetwashed it. If the weather looks like its staying dry and >20C as it has for the last few days I will T wash it tomorrow and start painting. Lots of bits can then start getting bolted on and things like brake lines etc run and clipped to the chassis.
Got the air system done so air is pretty dry, just need to get a tarp or something round it to stop painting the house and cars grey and black too
Took the steering relay apart a few days ago to replace the oil seals, everything else looked fine but when I looked at the parts costs I thought it just wasn't worth using most of it again when I already had it apart so I just ordered everything internally without even looking at the original parts closely.
The surprising thing I did find was the internal spring arrived today it was obviously much longer than the original so I checked it against the manual and it was nearly 25mm shorter and 10mm below the minimum allowed length.
I would have found this before I reassembled it but just found it surprising that there was such a difference from use.
Last edited:
BikerB
Well-Known Member
My project sat at the side of the house for about 5 years, I would not start it till I had a new galv chassis. The last time I had a land rover I spent ages chasing rust around the outriggers and eventually a door fell off and I had to change out the bulkhead as it was rotten.
I swore I would never do it again so the plan is to put corroless paint system on it and pump it full of rust preventative. This is supposed to last 10 years and the galv chassis will then start protecting it, hopefully for another 15-20 years before I even need to start worrying about it. By that time I will probably not be worrying too much about it
I swore I would never do it again so the plan is to put corroless paint system on it and pump it full of rust preventative. This is supposed to last 10 years and the galv chassis will then start protecting it, hopefully for another 15-20 years before I even need to start worrying about it. By that time I will probably not be worrying too much about it
Last edited:
6pot
Well-Known Member
Great stuff. I could look it up I suppose, but I take it the T wash is that type of treatment you have to put on zinc to make paint adhere? I remember doing similar when I had to paint some galvanised doors.
I can understand you not wanting to get into forever chasing rust again. I'm lucky in that my chassis seems sound (and repaired) and I have somewhere I can keep the Landy off road, plus it's been kept in the dry for 12 years. If I needed a galv chassis replacement (which is the only way to go really when it gets to that stage) I think my budget would be busted and it would end up standing for another 12 years...
I've been building up parts in earnest for the last 5 years at least and hope to find the time to do some useful work on it soon.
I can understand you not wanting to get into forever chasing rust again. I'm lucky in that my chassis seems sound (and repaired) and I have somewhere I can keep the Landy off road, plus it's been kept in the dry for 12 years. If I needed a galv chassis replacement (which is the only way to go really when it gets to that stage) I think my budget would be busted and it would end up standing for another 12 years...
I've been building up parts in earnest for the last 5 years at least and hope to find the time to do some useful work on it soon.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Mine looked solid enough when poking at it (so did my previous 90!) but when I took the body off there were quite a few bad bits.
I had outriggers that had been replaced so were solid, but were hardly welded to the main chassis at all.
The rear crossmember was also solid and had been replaced but had simply been tack welded to the main chassis and covered in underseal.
These were not easily visible till the body came off as it was mostly the upper parts that were not done.
Plus the usual obvious religious (holy) outriggers in the usual places and the front dumb irons being completely toast.
The chassis was repairable but I just don't have a large enough indoor space to do all the work nor did I want to!
I had outriggers that had been replaced so were solid, but were hardly welded to the main chassis at all.
The rear crossmember was also solid and had been replaced but had simply been tack welded to the main chassis and covered in underseal.
These were not easily visible till the body came off as it was mostly the upper parts that were not done.
Plus the usual obvious religious (holy) outriggers in the usual places and the front dumb irons being completely toast.
The chassis was repairable but I just don't have a large enough indoor space to do all the work nor did I want to!
BikerB
Well-Known Member
First coat of Corroless S on, if the weather stays warm enough I may get the second coat on tonight, will wait and see as I need to wait at least 4 hours so probably tomorrow
The advantage of having it up on the roller is that I can do the whole coat in one go as well as roll it around to check I haven't missed anything.
The plan is to have the two coats of primer and the two coats of topcoat on before the end of the weekend, just to get it out of the road as I hate painting in any form, even spraying.
![IMG_20210723_182646080[1].jpg](https://landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/img_20210723_182646080-1-jpg.243575/ "IMG_20210723_182646080[1].jpg")
The advantage of having it up on the roller is that I can do the whole coat in one go as well as roll it around to check I haven't missed anything.
The plan is to have the two coats of primer and the two coats of topcoat on before the end of the weekend, just to get it out of the road as I hate painting in any form, even spraying.
Last edited:
BikerB
Well-Known Member
Second coat of primer on this morning and just put on the first coat of RF16. Hadn't realised there was a longer overcoat time on the RF16 so won't be able to put on the second coat till later on tomorrow as long as it stays warm.
![IMG_20210724_200636269[1].jpg](https://landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/img_20210724_200636269-1-jpg.243649/ "IMG_20210724_200636269[1].jpg")
![IMG_20210724_200654212_HDR[1].jpg](https://landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/img_20210724_200654212_hdr-1-jpg.243650/ "IMG_20210724_200654212_HDR[1].jpg")
Its almost going to be a shame to bolts bits onto it and risk scratching it
Its almost going to be a shame to bolts bits onto it and risk scratching it
Last edited:
