steve2286w
Well-Known Member
It mentions a sleeve on the car builder website as the hole in middle of stalk is bigger diameter than steering column
No probs was flagging a bit by end, I had a few observations I’ll post later when I’ve woke upThats Great Mate was just thinking about that today.
Steve 2286w came up today to give me a hand, Thanks very Much Steve was loveley to meet you Mate.
Anyway we managed to get heater switch, wiper switch panel light and fuel gauge working so pleased with that. could only use the Ignition fuse box to 2 on barrel , there was no power on Aux box for some reason on to switch 5 on barrel but I tried it on switch 4 before leaving tonight and there is power from there, Can I use 4 instead ?
Yes Sorry I thought he meant the flasher unit, just wondering if this one is right part 502096 - Flasher unit old style - Find Land Rover parts at LR WorkshopIt mentions a sleeve on the car builder website as the hole in middle of stalk is bigger diameter than steering column
Thanks Again, never tried it on yet, think I have some of that silicone hose. will give it a try.View attachment 270685 T he column is a smaller diameter than the clamp on the column stick I used a https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351121422504?var=621558472704&_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=8fb02820ffc64f938b6070181a245a17&pid=100675&rk% and an off cut of waste pipe split and fitted on the lower part of the steering column .then used longer screws with a nut to clamp the two haves of the column switch to determine the new length of screw required yes that the flasher I personally would go for the electronic unit rather than the old style bi-metal strip and heater flasher
Not sure what size wire but it is thick brown,No to another wire to coil ,strange that the ignition switch 128SA is not four position, what wire size did you use to feed the aux fuse box been looking at spec of ignition switch and it max load is 15amps at 12 volt
as you could possibly draw more would suggest a relay to protect the ignition switch ,which would basically mean taking a wire of terminal 4 to 86 on a relay the other side 85 being earth.
a wire of terminal 1 (10mm cable large tab connector) off the ignition switch to relay terminal 30 and the cable feeding the Aux fuse box of terminal 87 of the relay https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/maxi-high-power-make-break-relay-12v-70a.html the relay wouldView attachment 270741 and https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/high-current-maxi-relay-socket-with-terminals.html the relay could be mounted behind the dash on the rear of the bulkhead
Thanks for pics, looks great makes embarased to show pics of mine now after seeing yoursI would for peace of mind its mainly to cover when the headlights are on rear fogs and front fog and you flash someone the load on the ignition switch would exceed it's rating and either melt
the switch or softens the annealing of the contact and they no longer operate correctly .
I put my glow plugs on a relay mine being a diesel which is mounted behind gauge panel so you could do the same with your relay have you sorted out where all the cable terminate View attachment 270743 View attachment 270744 View attachment 270745
Thanks Again.View attachment 270768 White/yellow ( W/Y) to oil pressure sender on filter house white ignition feed term 2 ignition switch is the nearest point along with white on cold start the white/ blue (WU) to choke thermostat rear of engine I believe
blue/white (UW) should join with head light main beam wiring possibly still to be routed to dash and checked .
where is the water temp sensor fitted on your engine looking to wire one on my engine have notice that the warning lamp I assumed was indicators is in fact oil pressure ,so you have oil pressure light oil temperature light but no indicator warning light ? so you may have to fit one
Yes see it I do have a couple of decent spares that I can fit.I would fit a separate indicator as not confuse anyone who takes on the vehicle after you and I are long gone with it marked oil temp would alarm them
a have marked the position on the previous drawing between the inspection socket and heater switch
Think I know what you mean now, I have a couple of those otter things which I kept off old engines, do I really need it ?that relays fine .I know the series 1 engine had a otter temp sensor on the back of the engine it may be that the series 2 used just the switch on the cable to tell you the choke was engaged
Speedo unit is what was already there from series 2 . as was Choke cable. I have replaced cable as it was ready to fit to carb, but it did not have a switch or bracket on it as in diagram.you do not require the otter switch but do need a choke cable with s switch to operate the choke warning light . in my diagram do you have the switch bracket and switch attached to your choke cable
The speedo unit fitted to your series is it from a series 2 or a series 3 as the later had a voltage stabiliser to feed the gauges this drops the voltage to a stable 10volts
Think I have wire's correct now. wter on left. On my pic fuel gauge is on right and Fuel gauge is working but Temp is going straight up to Red after few minutes with engine running. No water loss or any signs of over heating. Earth's seem to be okView attachment 270809 Have you got a green or orange lens to fit the choke warning light unit ,you then could do -away with the choke warning and use it as indicator warning.
as to the gauges make sure you have a good clean earth on the tank and engine.
Look at you picture the fuel gauge wiring is incorrect