I think for I ll see how it go with more wind cooling the job and if I'm still not over happy I ll try a thicker grade of oil . I know the bottom end is good I've had the big ends off they are in great shape very little in the way off any tell tale signs of abuse and the guy I got the engine off was fanatical about oil changes on the dot and it only 130000 miles on it .
It's semi synthetic 10/30 Mobil i think it was I won't use the halfords or other shop branded unless it going in the tractor gearbox .
. Well I must admit not everything the manufacturer specifies is the best I tend to stick with a good oil and change every 5000 unless I've been towing a lot then ill change it at 40000ish . And while old oil is hot the chassis gets a good coating of it inside and out and bulkhead gets a liberal coat too to keep the metal maggots away.
Well it's something to keep in mind but I ll do the heat related stuff first because if we ever have a hot summer I can see it being a problem and it can only be beneficial in the long run .Old school rust proofing was 50/50 old engine oil and paraffin. Worked well if done regularly. 5 W 30 5 W 40 is only recommended were temps go down to -30 degrees. In our climate 10 w 30 or 10 W 40 is what to go for which is in the -10 to +30 degrees range. On an engine that has done some miles i would say 40 is better than 30. Handles the heat better when tolerances maybe growing due to slight wear. And as said, a can of STP does no harm at all on each oil change. Gives a little bit of help to todays low Zinc oils.
I can live in hope can't I .Hot summer? You wish.
