West Slope Rover
Well-Known Member
Yeah. I've left this place too.
And it's Dudley Do Right, with those bigger letters, whatever you call them. Oh yeah, upper case.
And it's Dudley Do Right, with those bigger letters, whatever you call them. Oh yeah, upper case.
So what have we got here? A 1961 series 2 Land rover 2286 cc petrol fitted with a M51 diesel. The OP says he has fitted the series flywheel somehow, so has no timing reference for timing the pump or camshaft unless he has duplicated the locking pin hole in the new flywheel. If he did not his pump timing can at best be a guesstimate. Even if he used a degree disc. More detailed info is needed.
Dean Whittam
Member
Why on earth are you persisting with this you have your opinion and that's fine I know what I did and hey presto it runs fine no smoke no starting issues my only fault is the pump gets a bit too hot after along run at 75 on the motorway .and before you go on about a series won't do 75 mine has overdrive and 3.55 crown wheel and pinions plus 7.50 radials .. now if your prepared to respond in a reasonable fashion without offering insults etc I might discuss it further otherwise it's a no its your choice .
Dean Whittam
Member
Ok so I missed a few capital letters so shoot me
Not trying to be funny, but explain how you fitted a series flywheel to the M51. I am sure lots of people will want to know how you did the conversion. Fitting a mechanical VE to an M51 is easy IF you have the flywheel locking hole, not if you don't. You need to go into greater detail. I am asking for information so the other members can understand what you have done and how you did it. .
Dean Whittam
Member
Fly wheel has been plugged and redrilled and no I don't have tdc pin hole .so timing it was a bit of an issue but it's all good
Dean Whittam
Member
It's running a series a heavy duty clutch the fly wheel housing is a diesel series cut out for the crank seal housing it was all set up on the floor on blocks and the holes marked out to avoid any webbing , then drilled, in all it went quite well there is one bolt hole you can't use . I've done around 20000 miles with no issues at all bar some silly oil leaks . I was told so many times you can't do this or that and it won't fit or it ll destroy the gearbox all of which is utter bull
Dean Whittam
Member
It would certainly appear so
It would certainly appear so wouldn't it .Thank you now we are getting somewhere.
What do you use for a lift pump?
Dean Whittam
Member
It's not got one . I was having trouble with it building too much pump body pressure and bob suggested try it without it and seems fine .
Pump body pressure can be set, should be between minimum 3.5 maximum 4.5 bars. Should then flow through the pressure control valve back to the inlet side of the pump. But fuel should be constantly circulated via the bleed off outlet back to the tank to cool it. The reason it is difficult to start when hot is the fuel is getting to hot and causing vapour locks in the pump. Pouring water over it reduces fuel temp and gets rid of the vapour lock. See if Bob has a spare flow restrictor that you can play with and maybe open up a little to get better fuel recirculation back to the tank to keep the fuel cooler.
Dean Whittam
Member
Totally agree but before I go altering that dirt and all that being a big no no .it is a car engine and sump was arse about but it's now got an rr sump and it's opened up the front end in a big way so I'm hoping this extra air and maybe a fuel cooler will sort that little problem out .
Yes improved airflow may sort the problem out specially if you can direct some air onto the pump. The internal fuel pressure controls the timing through the rev range. When the engine is stopped pump reverts to static, as internal pressure bleeds away. As the revs increase internal pressure increases to a max of 4.5 bars to adjust the point of injection. EDC uses a more complex system.
Dean Whittam
Member
I should have changed the sump at the start really but I was keen to test my other mods out .I've got defender wing scoop and some ducting if it needs it but I think the air flow and slow running fan will fettle it .what's the oil pressure at running temp mine hovers at around 60 psi but at idle it drops to about 18 but this could also be a heat related issue and may well improve .
Don't know exact pressures without looking it up. Would think 60 is good anything around or above 15 at idle should be fine.
Dean Whittam
Member
Thanks .I figured it should be acceptable as 60 is fine when it's up off idle and anything around 20 seems what most manufacturers are happy with I'd be really happy with between 25 and 30 though .
What grade of oil do you use?
Dean Whittam
Member
10 /30 diesel oil they say you can use 5 /30 but I was a little bothered about idle pressure so stuck with 10 / 30. But this air flow should help keep things that bit cooler .its usually one thing that leads to other trouble .
If it's got a few miles on it go to 10W40 semi synthetic. You need some synthetic in to cope with heat from turbo. Fully synthetic is overkill at the price and i think diesel engine oil and filter should be changed twice as often as specified. 5W30 is ok if you live in Alaska, no good for here and a older engine with miles on it. You can try sticking a can of STP or Wynns in with next change that will do some good.
