ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Probably needs less work than you think
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
That's not a chock, ya spanner, it's the shock absorber on the other side
Bugger, yeah, I see that now.....my eyesight was probably impaired after a large glass of Glenfiddich! :beer2:
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Ok guys....time to stop taking the ****....
I hate to be the one to tell ya but tis fooked...probably cost more to pull it out than tis worth....sad but true
To make you feel better I'll come and haul the eyesore away and I'll only charge fer the diesel
I hate to be the one to tell ya but tis fooked...probably cost more to pull it out than tis worth....sad but true
To make you feel better I'll come and haul the eyesore away and I'll only charge fer the diesel
prior1188
Active Member
Ok guys....time to stop taking the ****....
I hate to be the one to tell ya but tis fooked...probably cost more to pull it out than tis worth....sad but true
To make you feel better I'll come and haul the eyesore away and I'll only charge fer the diesel
You and a line of other 'helpful' volunteers
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
Ok guys....time to stop taking the ****....
I hate to be the one to tell ya but tis fooked...probably cost more to pull it out than tis worth....sad but true
To make you feel better I'll come and haul the eyesore away and I'll only charge fer the diesel
But it would be a project, not a money spinner. If you spent £3k on it, you'd have a Landy good for 20 years plus. Buy a £3k fiesta and scrap it in 10 years. Anyways, the OP has gone quiet....I think he's already got the tub off! Lol
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Turboman
Mab An Gov
And you would have the satisfaction of using sumthing youve built yerself, and that was designed and made by British craftsmen.Not designed by a puter and built by robots.
Looks a lot of salvageable stuff there, bulkhead rotten as you like, the chassis even has some paint in the pics, but you could rechassis and bulkhead for less than price of a five year old family car.
Ive seen landies that looked worse that started up with a battery and fresh petrol.
Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
The choice my friend, is yours,, you can either;
a) restore her yourself, or
b) you can donate her to my caring, sharing home for a retired Landy
Always remember that our friendship transcends the insults and banter which is generally used on LZ!
When would you like me to come along and rescue her from the pervading clutches of both this motley crew and the ravages of Galloping Tinworm?
a) restore her yourself, or
b) you can donate her to my caring, sharing home for a retired Landy
Always remember that our friendship transcends the insults and banter which is generally used on LZ!
When would you like me to come along and rescue her from the pervading clutches of both this motley crew and the ravages of Galloping Tinworm?
Wow such an amazing response to something I found! Wat are the 2.25 petrol motor like? Pretty gut less? I might take on the challenge and do it myself! One question is the brake pedal seems to be flat to the floor? Are all 4 brakes gona be seized up and need looking at before I can even drag it out?
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
The petrols pretty good....compared to a doosal anyway.
Seals most likely gone in the master cylinder (and wheel cylinders no doubt) but aside from that you might be lucky with backing off the worm adjusters on the drums and rocking her about a bit.......don't forget to free off handbrake drum as well.
Have you got any clutch? May well be seized as well.
I'd want to keep all the internal workings as still as poss until you've had a chance to drain all the fluids, make sure nothing is seized and refilled with fresh oil
Seals most likely gone in the master cylinder (and wheel cylinders no doubt) but aside from that you might be lucky with backing off the worm adjusters on the drums and rocking her about a bit.......don't forget to free off handbrake drum as well.
Have you got any clutch? May well be seized as well.
I'd want to keep all the internal workings as still as poss until you've had a chance to drain all the fluids, make sure nothing is seized and refilled with fresh oil
the brakes will most likely only be seized if some kid has climbed in it and pressed the pedal and the pedal pivot had gone stiff, what you may have is an awful lot of rust built up in the drums locking the brakes on giving the impression of seized on brakes
more likely the fluid has escaped and someone has pressed a dry system/pedal to the floor and it's stuck on the pivot, the return spring attached to the pedal isn't that strong or shouldn't be, you should be able to see two springs in the drivers footwell attached to the clutch and brake pedals and back up to a bracket in the top of the footwell (both possibly rotted off so only remnants left)
depending on my mind at the time of dragging it out of there i'd possibly end up taking the wheels off and just smashing the drums off if i couldn't get the wheel(s) to turn once jacked up and the box in neutral (make sure the high/low lever isn't in neutral as that locks the front and rear together) on the assumption that if it's refusing to rotate the drum is probably way past it's best (possibly best to remove the props to ensure it's not in 4x4)
but even with seized wheels it could still be winched onto a trailer, DO NOT attempt to suspended tow it (towing on a dolly) without taking off at least one of the props as it may be stuck in 4x4 and with a pair of wheels still rotating it'll try to drive itself forwards off the dolly
looking at that front bumper hanging off i'd drag that forwards by passing a rope right underneath it to the REAR axle so when towing the axle is pushing the rest of the vehicle forwards (this is assuming the rest of the chassis has gone paper thin)
or you could tie a rope under the motor to both axles, each end of the rope to one axle so it gives a loop out under the front of the motor and then attach another rope to that, this means you should get a pretty balanced pull on both axles minimising the risk of things collapsing
DO NOT try to snatch it until you've assessed any rot, tow it out as gently as possible, i've seen chassis that have sat that you could squash with your bare hands and that have just crumbled away when grabbed
this motor looks like it's sat in the damp quite a long time, you could be lucky but i doubt ita decent 2.25 petrol is quite a nice healthy motor with a fair turn of accelleration and speed considering the general age of them and you're driving a barn on wheels, they're also a very nice quiet engine when running correctly
i chased a mate in a run of the mill 88" with 2.25p through a few lanes back to Warwick whilst in my 200tdi'd 109 and to be honest i struggled to stay with him, ok he knew the roads but even if i had as well i reckon i'd still have struggled
they're great little motors which thoroughly deserve the following they have, i've a mate with a 1962 S2 who has owned it the best part of it's 51 years, it's his only car and has been ever since he bought it as far as i can make out, he's reasonably regularly off to Tallylyn in it as he's a steam enthusiast and supporter/volunteer on the railway there, he may be getting a little doddery but his landrover is still a sprightly old bus
anyway here's another jealous person
best of luck with it
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
I'd have said that rust locking the shoes to the drum was a pretty good definition of seized brakes
but otherwise some well thought out and sound advice went down to the woods today to have a better look and get some more pictures, managed to pull the brake pedal back up by hand, clutch pedal moves freely can select gears and high/low settings, noticed it has those free moving wheel hubs on the front, the chassis is completely ####ed will probably buy a new one, anyone know a good place to get one? seen em for just over a grand. anyone wana help pull the old girl out in the essex area!
looking at bulk head options £1k for a new one! think ill give repairing it ago first! like £100 for the corners, door posts and new foot wells! cant wait to get it pulled out and strip it down! might strip it down where it is and leave the chassis to return back to mother earth
i dunno what year it says it was first registered but i'd guess that's not it's original registration, it looks to be an "age related" plate being a suffix A, it "might" even be ex-military
it "might" even be older than the registration indicates but you need a proper rivet counter to assess it rather than me
i'm curious about the radiator panel as well as that would normally be on a pretty early 2/2a, the only 2a i personally know those style with the proud chrome trims were fitted to later in the production is my ex New Zealand one, my 1965 109 definitely doesn't have those but i don't know when they stopped using that panel, again the actual panel is slightly different from the later ones as it's dead flat around the lights and mine is slightly proud
it needs clearer photos of the cab area to give us a better idea along with some good shots from in the engine bay
Richards Chassis are the folks to talk to to get a rivet correct chassis but first you need to know what year it actually is to get the details correct, your chassis number will help and should narrow it down to no more than three months of a particular year
if you want to get accurate information to assist with a "correct" rebuild i suggest you join the Series 2 forum for assistance in identifying it
The Series 2 Club Forum - Index
it "might" even be older than the registration indicates but you need a proper rivet counter to assess it rather than me
i'm curious about the radiator panel as well as that would normally be on a pretty early 2/2a, the only 2a i personally know those style with the proud chrome trims were fitted to later in the production is my ex New Zealand one, my 1965 109 definitely doesn't have those but i don't know when they stopped using that panel, again the actual panel is slightly different from the later ones as it's dead flat around the lights and mine is slightly proud
it needs clearer photos of the cab area to give us a better idea along with some good shots from in the engine bay
Richards Chassis are the folks to talk to to get a rivet correct chassis but first you need to know what year it actually is to get the details correct, your chassis number will help and should narrow it down to no more than three months of a particular year
if you want to get accurate information to assist with a "correct" rebuild i suggest you join the Series 2 forum for assistance in identifying it
The Series 2 Club Forum - Index
well the suffix A suggests it's a 63, but i still wouldn't guarantee it as i'm not sure if any were actually allocated in 63, there are a few numbers that can be got from the vehicle to more closely date it's age
axles, steering box and possibly some of the electrical stuff, maybe the gearbox if it hasn't been changed and even the engine, the chassis number can tell you (actually read off the chassis if possible) if it's always been petrol or was originally diesel along with a pretty defined age
everything apart from the radiator (late 2a/S3 item) looks to be correct to me from your photos under the bonnet, "bean tin" brake reservoir, single line brakes with the correct master cylinder and possibly a cheap replacement clutch cylinder but those could be standard fitment to later models as well
just remember i don't have the knowledge to say 100% "yes, that's correct or not correct" as i've only been tinkering with old landrovers for 4 or 5 years and i've not gone over the top on researching any details
it just "looks correct" to me
p.s.
you've got some serious welding in that bulkhead, i've already repaired one and am slowly working my way through a second one, they're horrible if like me you want to do them correctly
axles, steering box and possibly some of the electrical stuff, maybe the gearbox if it hasn't been changed and even the engine, the chassis number can tell you (actually read off the chassis if possible) if it's always been petrol or was originally diesel along with a pretty defined age
everything apart from the radiator (late 2a/S3 item) looks to be correct to me from your photos under the bonnet, "bean tin" brake reservoir, single line brakes with the correct master cylinder and possibly a cheap replacement clutch cylinder but those could be standard fitment to later models as well
just remember i don't have the knowledge to say 100% "yes, that's correct or not correct" as i've only been tinkering with old landrovers for 4 or 5 years and i've not gone over the top on researching any details
it just "looks correct" to me
p.s.
you've got some serious welding in that bulkhead, i've already repaired one and am slowly working my way through a second one, they're horrible if like me you want to do them correctly
