Hello everyone, I'm planning to restore this 1970 SWB Series 2a diesel 2.25. Standing in a barn since last 20 years. Only surface rust on body bulkhead and chassis. I plan to get the body painted and chassis galvanized. I have no previous experience of fixing or repairing cars so if you folks can give me a sequence of where to start from. Thank you
julianf
Well-Known Member
Make sure your bank account is healthy. And then find some more money from somewhere.
codfather79
Well-Known Member
Looks tidy.
Keep everything as whole/complete as possible.
Photos of everything.
Bag and label everything.
Allow triple you budget
Allow ten times the time.
Have fun
Don't throw anything away!!
Keep everything as whole/complete as possible.
Photos of everything.
Bag and label everything.
Allow triple you budget
Allow ten times the time.
Have fun
Don't throw anything away!!
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Chassis.
Axles.
Brake lines.
Lower steering.
Engine.
Gearbox
Radiator
Bulkhead.
Body.
Upper steering.
Pedals
Loom
Heater
Wings.
Axles.
Brake lines.
Lower steering.
Engine.
Gearbox
Radiator
Bulkhead.
Body.
Upper steering.
Pedals
Loom
Heater
Wings.
codfather79
Well-Known Member
And don't tighten body panels, bulkhead and side frames until everything is lined up and packed/shimmed.
Don't ask me why I know
Don't ask me why I know
I am told by the galvanizing company to sandblast in order to remove the paint and the primer. Rust does not interfere in the galvanizing process.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Best?
Electro rust removal.
Cheapest? Knotted brush on an angle grinder.
Electro rust removal.
Cheapest? Knotted brush on an angle grinder.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Quickest , drop in brick acid for 2 hours
I do like the look of that and the best model, cleaned up the original patina will look great
I do like the look of that and the best model, cleaned up the original patina will look great
Last edited:
Really, what about the rust inside the chassis, you can't galvanise rust.
It will carry on rusting from the inside out.
How to tackle inside rust? Acid treatment?
That's what I asked you, I guess you could get the chassis acid dipped.
If that's viable I would get that done. Depends on your weather conditions if it's worth getting it painted or galvanise it.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Get the chassis shot blasted. Any structural rust will be exposed. The rest doesn't matter, and the pre dip pickling will take care of it.
ER1C
Well-Known Member
I had a chassis acid dipped......
Before, after the hard work was done...
I had to make sure it went to the right place, apparently Female Strippers Nottingham isnt the right place.
Fresh out of the acid dip.
Clearly see the good effort it has done and exposed rot.
Quick gift wrap ready for the trip to the repair expert and then off to the galvanizers afterwards.
One thing I will say is the chap who did the repair work said they should have left it in acid for a little longer as not all of the epoxy coating on the chassis had been eaten away on the inside box cavities.
Before, after the hard work was done...
I had to make sure it went to the right place, apparently Female Strippers Nottingham isnt the right place.
Fresh out of the acid dip.
Clearly see the good effort it has done and exposed rot.
Quick gift wrap ready for the trip to the repair expert and then off to the galvanizers afterwards.
One thing I will say is the chap who did the repair work said they should have left it in acid for a little longer as not all of the epoxy coating on the chassis had been eaten away on the inside box cavities.
A landrover chassis isn't treated inside, so consequently they tend to rust away, from the inside.
I can't imagine a 1970 chassis will be anywhere near in good condition unless the previous owner/s regularly treated the chassis with some form of anti-rust treatment.
In the old days people would mix diesel and old engine oil together and spray the chassis inside and out.
If that was done evey year or two since new then the chassis may still be in a solid/good condition.
If that has been done then putting it into an acid bath will really piss off the tank operator ....
A new, galvanised, chassis is likely to be close to the cost of doing this work anyway .... look here.
www.maer.com.pl
Other suppliers are available.
I can't imagine a 1970 chassis will be anywhere near in good condition unless the previous owner/s regularly treated the chassis with some form of anti-rust treatment.
In the old days people would mix diesel and old engine oil together and spray the chassis inside and out.
If that was done evey year or two since new then the chassis may still be in a solid/good condition.
If that has been done then putting it into an acid bath will really piss off the tank operator ....
A new, galvanised, chassis is likely to be close to the cost of doing this work anyway .... look here.
LR Series 88 chassis 2.25 petrol & diesel - maer.com.pl
www.maer.com.pl
Other suppliers are available.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
The new chassis option is good, but an old chassis that's been blasted, repaired and galved is fine.
