admkhan81

New Member
Hello everyone, I'm planning to restore this 1970 SWB Series 2a diesel 2.25. Standing in a barn since last 20 years. Only surface rust on body bulkhead and chassis. I plan to get the body painted and chassis galvanized. I have no previous experience of fixing or repairing cars so if you folks can give me a sequence of where to start from. Thank you
 

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Looks tidy.
Keep everything as whole/complete as possible.
Photos of everything.
Bag and label everything.
Allow triple you budget
Allow ten times the time.
Have fun
Don't throw anything away!!
 
How can you galvanise a rusty chassis?
Can you acid dip it first to remove all the rust on the inside?
I am told by the galvanizing company to sandblast in order to remove the paint and the primer. Rust does not interfere in the galvanizing process.
 
Quickest , drop in brick acid for 2 hours
I do like the look of that and the best model, cleaned up the original patina will look great
 
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I am told by the galvanizing company to sandblast in order to remove the paint and the primer. Rust does not interfere in the galvanizing process.
Really, what about the rust inside the chassis, you can't galvanise rust.
It will carry on rusting from the inside out.
 
I had a chassis acid dipped......
Before, after the hard work was done...
1751363535815.jpeg

I had to make sure it went to the right place, apparently Female Strippers Nottingham isnt the right place.
1751363591690.jpeg

Fresh out of the acid dip.
1751363655163.jpeg

Clearly see the good effort it has done and exposed rot.
1751363719656.jpeg

Quick gift wrap ready for the trip to the repair expert and then off to the galvanizers afterwards.
1751363691496.jpeg


One thing I will say is the chap who did the repair work said they should have left it in acid for a little longer as not all of the epoxy coating on the chassis had been eaten away on the inside box cavities.
 
A landrover chassis isn't treated inside, so consequently they tend to rust away, from the inside.
I can't imagine a 1970 chassis will be anywhere near in good condition unless the previous owner/s regularly treated the chassis with some form of anti-rust treatment.
In the old days people would mix diesel and old engine oil together and spray the chassis inside and out.
If that was done evey year or two since new then the chassis may still be in a solid/good condition.
If that has been done then putting it into an acid bath will really piss off the tank operator ....

A new, galvanised, chassis is likely to be close to the cost of doing this work anyway .... look here.


Other suppliers are available.
 
keep everything in as large a section as possible until you have a chassis you are ready to start fitting things to. e.g. remove the leaf springs form the chassis leaving full axles assembled, remove the bulkhead complete, do not strip down the dash etc. keep as much of it assembled for as long as possible and only disassemble when you are ready to rebuild that part and then fit to the chassis. It may take a little longer initially, but is a quicker tactic in the long run that disassembling everything and then waiting a long time before it is put back together.
 
I think the most popular method is strip it down have a few bits repaired and lose interest.

keep everything in as large a section as possible until you have a chassis you are ready to start fitting things to. e.g. remove the leaf springs form the chassis leaving full axles assembled, remove the bulkhead complete, do not strip down the dash etc. keep as much of it assembled for as long as possible and only disassemble when you are ready to rebuild that part and then fit to the chassis. It may take a little longer initially, but is a quicker tactic in the long run that disassembling everything and then waiting a long time before it is put back together.

At least if you do as dag019 said it makes it easier to see what is there when you sell as an abandoned project in a few years time👍
 

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