Probably be alright and not too much a pfaff to change it afterwards if needs be. I just generally don't like re-using those seals given how you usually have to knock them about to get them out of the housing. Should be able to pick one of those up locally anyway if needs be.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
OK so tonight's plan:
Viciously attack the old motor (which is now on the stand) outside with the jetwash, get it cleaned and degreased, and then bring it inside to dry, have some tea, and then start stripping.
going to remove inlet manifold and rocker boxes, few brackets etc up front then timing cover.
nice pile forming in the parts washer already soon to be topped up with all this stuff. i'll then take it over and remove the sump, baffle plate and oil pickup, and then back over again to remove the valley gasket and inspect the cam!
pics will follow
Viciously attack the old motor (which is now on the stand) outside with the jetwash, get it cleaned and degreased, and then bring it inside to dry, have some tea, and then start stripping.
going to remove inlet manifold and rocker boxes, few brackets etc up front then timing cover.
nice pile forming in the parts washer already soon to be topped up with all this stuff. i'll then take it over and remove the sump, baffle plate and oil pickup, and then back over again to remove the valley gasket and inspect the cam!
pics will follow
I'm getting too involved I know - sorry! More mucky though it is if you attack it with water and particularly a jet wash, that's going to get everywhere however careful you are (inlet and exhaust ports spring to mind immediately and then into the cylinders with the valves stuck open). If you want to keep the old motor for a project which it sounds like you do and you are not going to strip it in the near future) I'd be inclined to strip it dry and then attack those bits that you are going to properly dry and clean for the new motor with the jet wash or just get them in the parts washer.
Shiny bores will corrode very easily with a bit of water and you'll end up having a reline rather than just getting a bore and fitting over sized pistons when you come to do it, forgetting about valve seats, guides etc.
Shiny bores will corrode very easily with a bit of water and you'll end up having a reline rather than just getting a bore and fitting over sized pistons when you come to do it, forgetting about valve seats, guides etc.
3.5 efi
Well-Known Member
RANGE ROVER V8 P6 SD1 TVR MORGAN OIL PUMP ADJUSTER KIT | eBay
wasn't looking for this but saw them mentioned earlier. that's all.
wasn't looking for this but saw them mentioned earlier. that's all.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Thanks for that gents, yeah that's not going to be a problem to make my own. im guessing the idea is you can adjust the bolt to alter how much the valve is allowed to open?
Anyway, got some pics for you!
some of them not too pretty
first off, knackered cam
next, with the engine upside down on the stand, i removed the sump. noticed in the sump a layer of sludge on the bottom. BUT not the sludge that was there when i first took the sump off a few years ago, that was just black sooty greasy stuff. this was basically metal paste. also, when wiping the top side of the pickup, again a fairly thick layer of metal sludge, grey in colour. this stuff was sat everywhere on flat surfaces. also there was a few metal particles in the sump and jammed in the strainer
pretty mucky in here
still buggered cam
huge amount of slack in the timing chain, crank pulley looked a little worn, cam pulley looked ok, dizzy gear was slightly worn but hardly at all really
AAAAAAAND then a huge pile of cleaning to do in a temperamental parts washer, 10 minutes on, 3 minutes off and so on...
anyone care to condemn/commend my engine?
nice one chaps
Anyway, got some pics for you!
some of them not too pretty
first off, knackered cam
next, with the engine upside down on the stand, i removed the sump. noticed in the sump a layer of sludge on the bottom. BUT not the sludge that was there when i first took the sump off a few years ago, that was just black sooty greasy stuff. this was basically metal paste. also, when wiping the top side of the pickup, again a fairly thick layer of metal sludge, grey in colour. this stuff was sat everywhere on flat surfaces. also there was a few metal particles in the sump and jammed in the strainer
pretty mucky in here
still buggered cam
huge amount of slack in the timing chain, crank pulley looked a little worn, cam pulley looked ok, dizzy gear was slightly worn but hardly at all really
AAAAAAAND then a huge pile of cleaning to do in a temperamental parts washer, 10 minutes on, 3 minutes off and so on...
anyone care to condemn/commend my engine?
nice one chaps
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you have had water in there ,but clean compared to most i rebuid
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
usually just a couple ,you think youve got a good cam till you look at last lobe
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
hi fellas
well, small confession, the nearside rocker cover gasket was misplaced at the front, so for the past couple of years it's had 2" of no gasket at the front of the rocker cover. no suprise it weeped a bit.
it was packed to the brim with sludge in the rocker boxes when i first opened them up so we dug it out, cleaned out the bunged up breathers etc, and then ran various flushing mixes through it. have changed the oil regular since then and generally assumed it was ok,ish.
anyway that explains the water ingress.
yeah tbh it isnt bad with the cam still having definite lobes, and all seem the same sort of height. pitted and rounded over but effectively still there.
i also expected the timing cover to be bunged up so i was surprised to see it clear.
tbh mate unfortunately i dont really have the time/dedication to start stripping the old motor any further just now because there's still plenty to do to sort out the new one.
what will inspecting the followers tell us??
thanks guys
well, small confession, the nearside rocker cover gasket was misplaced at the front, so for the past couple of years it's had 2" of no gasket at the front of the rocker cover. no suprise it weeped a bit.
it was packed to the brim with sludge in the rocker boxes when i first opened them up so we dug it out, cleaned out the bunged up breathers etc, and then ran various flushing mixes through it. have changed the oil regular since then and generally assumed it was ok,ish.
anyway that explains the water ingress.
yeah tbh it isnt bad with the cam still having definite lobes, and all seem the same sort of height. pitted and rounded over but effectively still there.
i also expected the timing cover to be bunged up so i was surprised to see it clear.
tbh mate unfortunately i dont really have the time/dedication to start stripping the old motor any further just now because there's still plenty to do to sort out the new one.
what will inspecting the followers tell us??
thanks guys
3.5 efi
Well-Known Member
hi fellas
well, small confession, the nearside rocker cover gasket was misplaced at the front, so for the past couple of years it's had 2" of no gasket at the front of the rocker cover. no suprise it weeped a bit.
it was packed to the brim with sludge in the rocker boxes when i first opened them up so we dug it out, cleaned out the bunged up breathers etc, and then ran various flushing mixes through it. have changed the oil regular since then and generally assumed it was ok,ish.
anyway that explains the water ingress.
yeah tbh it isnt bad with the cam still having definite lobes, and all seem the same sort of height. pitted and rounded over but effectively still there.
i also expected the timing cover to be bunged up so i was surprised to see it clear.
tbh mate unfortunately i dont really have the time/dedication to start stripping the old motor any further just now because there's still plenty to do to sort out the new one.
what will inspecting the followers tell us??
thanks guys
how worn they are, flat when new to deeply pocketed and cracking at the edges when fubar.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
there knackered normally
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
thanks for the pointers lads.
gonna get to bed now, was at the shop til midnight tuesday and 2am yesterday pulling that engine out so im knackered now, early night required, left the garage at 9.30 tonight, much better!
tomorrow will swap the new block back onto the stand, got to look at a few things jonnyt suggested, hopefully the stuff from v8tuner will arrive but if they dont ive got that pile of components to start cleaning.
will continue tomorrow gentlemen!
cheers
gonna get to bed now, was at the shop til midnight tuesday and 2am yesterday pulling that engine out so im knackered now, early night required, left the garage at 9.30 tonight, much better!
tomorrow will swap the new block back onto the stand, got to look at a few things jonnyt suggested, hopefully the stuff from v8tuner will arrive but if they dont ive got that pile of components to start cleaning.
will continue tomorrow gentlemen!
cheers
The adjuster bolt adjusts the pressure on the pressure relief valve - more pressure on the spring, higher the pressure on the relief valve = higher pressure in the engine before the relief valve kicks open.
Given the pressure washing (I thought I might have been too late !!!) I'd just whip the heads off - only a few bolts and you can then let everything dry out - you can get the followers out too then.
Looking at the sludge and bits in the strainer its worth spending some time to make sure the pump is within tolerances.
Given the pressure washing (I thought I might have been too late !!!) I'd just whip the heads off - only a few bolts and you can then let everything dry out - you can get the followers out too then.
Looking at the sludge and bits in the strainer its worth spending some time to make sure the pump is within tolerances.
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