jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
not inspiring ,to be honest ,but you cant say how it will run ,those log scratches look like poor attempt at glaze busting or hone
discomark10
Well-Known Member
looks good!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
oh well
thanks for your invaluable advice as usual JM!
the camera flash brings up the honing marks more than natural light i think.
anyway, the expert advice is it should have been rebored and new pistons fitted, SO i think if this runs ok it was a fair deal for the money...!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
is true ,maybe fine ,life isnt very often perfect ,but you still have your old engine ,time/money may come together and get it done in the future ,and most cars out there are half worn out
discomark10
Well-Known Member
i think you should sell it to me in a few months!
Spark plug thingy - get an old spark plug and take the centre gubbins out. Weld or glue a piece of steel in the end long enough so that it touches the piston at 10-15 degs BTDC (glue or weld well - you don't want it to come out!). Turn the engine roughly to 20 degs BTDC and put the plug in. Turn the engine over and bring it up to the stop - mark that point. Then turn the engine back the other way and bring it carefully upto the stop again. Halfway between these two points is TDC. See:
HELPTOPICS
The best reason for using a priming tool is that nothing else is moving so nothing is moving without oil while you're getting it up to pressure. Also saves pressure on the starter motor.
On the bores, I'd agree that a rebore and oversized rings is probably the better solution but knowing how worn these engines can be and still run fine I doubt you'll have any problems. If it was me though I'd do a compression and leak down test for peace of mind - that way you will know that everything is fine.
The other thing I did on my engine was drill two holes between the valley and the front cover - through the aluminium webbing. It increases the drain back of the oil to the sump but also assists in lubricating the timing chain and dizzy gear which can wear quite badly on these, particularly with an aftermarket cam. Obviously be very careful to recover all the swarf (easier if you turn the engine upside down).
On that point, have you got a cam retaining plate? Just a circle of steel with two bolts which locates on a ridge in the cam shaft behind the timing gear. If not, I'd be inclined to install a cam button - they are not much money and prevent cam walk which causes excess wear to the dizzy gear as well.
These are all easy jobs that it will be worth doing while you've got the engine out and not much cost.
Have you changed the pressure relief valve in the oil pump - good idea to change that and check that it moves freely - again easy to do now, cheap and a sod to do when its in the car. When you have it out you can also drill and tap a 10mm hole in the bolt that retains the spring to make the relief valve adjustable to ensure your oil pressure is in the right range.
All depends on how far you want to go, but those little mods will give you a lot more peace of mind for little effort and expense. I did however take 9 months to build that engine up with all the little mods that I did!! Don't even start on the porting!!
HELPTOPICS
The best reason for using a priming tool is that nothing else is moving so nothing is moving without oil while you're getting it up to pressure. Also saves pressure on the starter motor.
On the bores, I'd agree that a rebore and oversized rings is probably the better solution but knowing how worn these engines can be and still run fine I doubt you'll have any problems. If it was me though I'd do a compression and leak down test for peace of mind - that way you will know that everything is fine.
The other thing I did on my engine was drill two holes between the valley and the front cover - through the aluminium webbing. It increases the drain back of the oil to the sump but also assists in lubricating the timing chain and dizzy gear which can wear quite badly on these, particularly with an aftermarket cam. Obviously be very careful to recover all the swarf (easier if you turn the engine upside down).
On that point, have you got a cam retaining plate? Just a circle of steel with two bolts which locates on a ridge in the cam shaft behind the timing gear. If not, I'd be inclined to install a cam button - they are not much money and prevent cam walk which causes excess wear to the dizzy gear as well.
These are all easy jobs that it will be worth doing while you've got the engine out and not much cost.
Have you changed the pressure relief valve in the oil pump - good idea to change that and check that it moves freely - again easy to do now, cheap and a sod to do when its in the car. When you have it out you can also drill and tap a 10mm hole in the bolt that retains the spring to make the relief valve adjustable to ensure your oil pressure is in the right range.
All depends on how far you want to go, but those little mods will give you a lot more peace of mind for little effort and expense. I did however take 9 months to build that engine up with all the little mods that I did!! Don't even start on the porting!!
discomark10
Well-Known Member
no!!!! i wana rebuilt in n then put it in myn!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
More great help Jonny, thanks for taking the time to explain it all. I'm going to spend some more playtime tonight so I'll look into those jobs you suggest.
Yeah I agree with the oil pump prime before spinning anything over, good thinking batman
I haven't got my old engine apart yet and of course this motor came with an sd1 front end so I'm waiting to get the land rover front end off before I can look at the oil pump, was on my list of jobs because the pressure release valve sticks when it redlines for a little while. Not ideal!
It does not appear to have anything behind the timing gear so I will do some research on that.
Thanks!!
Yeah I agree with the oil pump prime before spinning anything over, good thinking batman
I haven't got my old engine apart yet and of course this motor came with an sd1 front end so I'm waiting to get the land rover front end off before I can look at the oil pump, was on my list of jobs because the pressure release valve sticks when it redlines for a little while. Not ideal!
It does not appear to have anything behind the timing gear so I will do some research on that.
Thanks!!
fett
Well-Known Member
just watch out when using silicone , a guy from rrr blocked up an oil way by mistake when doing a cam job and ended up with 0 psi, now its big ends and mains out and pray the rest is ok or hes killed the new parts too.
lol, he though it was a sticky new tapped untill I said he had better check the pressure :doh:
lol, he though it was a sticky new tapped untill I said he had better check the pressure :doh:
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
I will use sparingly indeed fett, thanks.
Speaking of lubrication, looking into the cam situation Jonny was talking about I then stumbled across some discrepancy as to which way round the cam spacer and dizzy drive should be fitted. The dizzy gear currently has the chamfer facing the spacer.
Please look here and see what you guys think:
Thankyou
Speaking of lubrication, looking into the cam situation Jonny was talking about I then stumbled across some discrepancy as to which way round the cam spacer and dizzy drive should be fitted. The dizzy gear currently has the chamfer facing the spacer.
Please look here and see what you guys think:
Thankyou
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
other way round ,flange to drive gear
Have you seen this page Sam - it's quite good for diagrams on things like that.
pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com
If you search for 'thrust' here: Rover V8 Engines, Parts and Services from V8 Tuner you get the relevant part. It was a standard rover part for a while as a recommended upgrade for engines without lateral restraint of the camshaft, but it has now been discontinued and only specialists do them.
pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com
If you search for 'thrust' here: Rover V8 Engines, Parts and Services from V8 Tuner you get the relevant part. It was a standard rover part for a while as a recommended upgrade for engines without lateral restraint of the camshaft, but it has now been discontinued and only specialists do them.
