Thanks dude! I will admit it looks fully sexual! BUT the mechanicals inside are important too :D

Here's some oil pump pics:

Old gears on the right, new on the left, old pressure valve below

ABF874F8-F104-4950-ACC3-CEBF19F83A31-10215-0000084770B206B5.jpg


old gears

D1CBADC2-B40F-48FE-9105-54FBB9A3BEE6-10215-0000084769B50F08.jpg


Old gears

41FBBDE9-7DFA-4BDE-A4DC-A7D102C25CD0-10215-0000084762546FFD.jpg


Old valve, slight wear but fits very well, new one jams but I have buffed the burrs as best as possible

A0BB82E4-8BFE-44A2-B1EC-8EA0A595F823-10215-000008475C1F48FC.jpg


Cover, slight wear, less that 0.001" deep at the worst part

6F11C0BE-D313-4A4A-BB56-35A4DED67BBF-10215-0000084754F30BD5.jpg


Housing, scored but no perceptible step at the bottom

B497E854-F037-477F-8E4F-9A79C3B78C10-10215-000008474825C456.jpg


Also, oil pump gears, original drive gear height 21.50mm, slave 21.52mm, new gear height both 21.52mm

Please advise :)
 
Jonnyt you hero,

Just checked the manual and the rockers themselves have been fitted incorrectly with the valves on the end of the rockers not correctly handed :(

Also regards the manual where it states the orientation of the rocker shafts etc, what would be considered the right hand side of the engine? Is it the drivers side of the car or the right hand side when looking at the engine head on??
 
For instance the rockers on the left here are correct but the other 3 pairs of rockers on this shaft are not...

303B01EE-6DA9-452D-AF79-9FE4E1EE5964-10284-0000084E6B75A8FB.jpg
 
good job you spotted that mate, ffs :doh:

you dont want the release valave to jam, sad when new parts are ****er than old worn parts- what brand was it and where did you get it from. the oil pump gears only touch the on the end so there should be no wear on the teeth. I would face the base off and refit the old bits but james will know for sure
 
Back to square minus 1! Can't thanks you enough for prompting me to check this Jonny!

2C37E8A2-8D79-4987-92B2-9305BFF08930-10284-0000085179DA157C.jpg


65042A05-F47B-47A8-8A3B-06C68DD603B7-10284-000008515272D4F9.jpg


Slighht wear under the rocker shaft but rockers still fit very well

CD95F7E5-0062-4C86-85BB-DA2030083106-10284-00000852ACFD34F6.jpg
 
Pump parts are allmakes and bought from v8 tuner

Problem with facing the cover off is that they are hard anodised, any facing removes even more anodising!!

Handy thing is I've got the sd1 timing cover there so I'm going to check the pump cover on that and see if it's any better.

The rockers seem to fit either way round but the valve/pad at the end is offset. Anyway getting there on the rocker rebuild at the moment, will get that sorted and report back!
 
Ok thanks JM will refit old gears because they are evidently better. I think I will fit old valve with new spring but firs will check what parts I have got in the sd1 pump.

Yes fett it is in more bits than ever now!!!

Better to do it now though, very glad jonnyt told me to check!
 
I would only go for gen, oem at a push mate but really so much of it is ****e :( I would measure and check it all 5 times)

if in doubt send it back lol

it is common practice to face the base off when its worn, mines done but fook knows what it looks like in the car now- if it aint broke dont look :p
 
Ok fett yeah I've heard mixed advise on facing off.

I see the principle but then fully understand why taking the anodising off is a bad idea.

Must admit its not inspiring that the geezer has put the bottom end together correctly :(
 
true lol, did it look like new bolts like he said?

you must be spending a fortune on gaskets amt :p
 
true lol, did it look like new bolts like he said?

you must be spending a fortune on gaskets amt :p

Hmmm, the main bearing cap bolts could be new but the big end bolts don't look new cos they seem to be varnished.

Seeing as he couldn't find the invoice from rimmer bros which is where the bolts came from I'd perhaps say that's the case, although he did get the gaskets from them and they're blatently new.

Whatever anyway, hoping for the best here. Will check the crank bolts are torqued before I put the sump on!!

Bit of good news:

DAB399A9-FDB6-4EAF-A41A-51F747BC5351-10284-00000857D6843A34.jpg


The sd1 pump cover is much much better and the new valve cap fits perfectly in it, so I will be using that :)

Next job I think is figure out the million different bolts in the timing cover!!
 
thats good to know they are interchangeable for when I do mine mate. Pretty sure the bottom end bolts arnt the stretch type so should be ok , like you say jus check the torque on them is right.

I look forwrd to a u tube vid of the first start (or attempt :p ) mate :D
 
Now that will be nail biting stuff! But yes of course it will be videod!

Currently trying to get my timing cover to fit. Have to progressively work down the cam button, whilst also having trouble because I have to cut quite a few of the stainless bolts to length. The joys :)

Time for McDonalds and attack it again after luncheon!
 
They turned our ****ing local bk into a pizza hut. Devastation in the altrincham area for sure...
 
they turned ours in to a kfc, no dont get me wrong kfc has its merrits but I wih they had put it instead of macccy d's not BK
 
So, today was a struggle.

Have got the top end built back up again, hopefully for the last time!

Have done the cam button. Jonny you were correct the spacer is not for dizzy use, so I sued the washer and button. In fact here's my theory:

The button is designed for the 4.0/4.6 engines, where there is no dizzy to hold the cam back. The spacer was the same thickness as the dizzy gear and washer put together. Obviously the non dizzy engines use a different timing cover, explaining why I had to take about 3mm away overall. I took around 1.5mm off the button and also ground the inside of the cover smooth to remove the webbing, so if it does contact it is smooth and not the webbing which would surely rip up the nylon in no time.

I am fitting a stainless bolt set of which some lengths need altering etc so it took me ages to fit the timing cover, and I still have some incorrect lengths that need sourcing.

The chap i got the bolts from said he will swap any mismatches but I'm going to source what I can locally to save ****ing about with the post. Unless they're hugely expensive that is!!!

Cheers, Sam :)
 

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