It always gets worse before it gets better. The more you take it apart, the more you will find. But better to find it and fix it, than to just let it hide, ignore it and then suddenly everything falls apart.

You can chop out that mount, clean up and sort out the bulkhead and buy a complete correct shape bulkhead mount, similar to the inner wings. That way you will have fixed the bulkhead and put in a new mount.

I'm glad mine wasn't as bad as this. I only had to take the front wings off and my bulkhead was fine, unlike yours.

What year is your discovery?
 
hi marc

it's a 98.

another numpty question........

if I chop off the bulkhead mount, what would be the procedure for re fitting another one ?

do you bolt it tight to the chassis and then weld to bulkhead? or

do you rest it on the chassis with the bolt through loose, then weld it to bulkhead, and then tighten up bolt?

??
 
plucked up courage to go to our local steel stockists.

dealt with good bloke, didn't belittle me with my numptyness and lack of knowledge.

Took me through to the warehouse to show me different thickness steel. though not sure what thickness to get. 1.6 or 1.0mm. only thing is they sell it in big sheet sizes, about £38 quid. which seemed good for the size of the sheets !!!

He also said they would cut it down into more manageable size pieces for me.

Was told to call back Monday and the stores/workshop bloke will be there, and I asked if I could have any off-cuts for practicing welding, and he said they'll sort me out.

Tidy.

so, todays numpty question ........1.5mm or 1.0mm thickness ????
 
That's an easy question. Thicker metal is easier to weld when you first start welding. You don't blow through it quite as easily. Although brand new steel is FAR easier to weld than already thin and corroded steel.

I would say 1mm is too small, I have some 1.2mm and 2mm next to me. I wouldn't want to make it out of anything thinner than 1.2mm.

So basically, go for the thicker stuff. That and your wings will be stronger. ;)
 
makes me wonder about buying my mates one as that dosent need a huge amount of welding for test, if they are worth a few quid :rolleyes:
 
mine flew through the test.

no advisories.

the rust, and what i'm doing to mine now, is purely my choice to keep my disco in good order.

wouldn't you do the same to your 90 ?
 
plucked up courage to go to our local steel stockists.

dealt with good bloke, didn't belittle me with my numptyness and lack of knowledge.

Took me through to the warehouse to show me different thickness steel. though not sure what thickness to get. 1.6 or 1.0mm. only thing is they sell it in big sheet sizes, about £38 quid. which seemed good for the size of the sheets !!!

He also said they would cut it down into more manageable size pieces for me.

Was told to call back Monday and the stores/workshop bloke will be there, and I asked if I could have any off-cuts for practicing welding, and he said they'll sort me out.

Tidy.

so, todays numpty question ........1.5mm or 1.0mm thickness ????
if its an 8x4 sheet at 38 inc vat its not a bad price.
personally I use 1.6mm
not intended to be an insult to the vehicles but are discoveries worth this work and expense?
depends if you can weld
financially?
no
makes me wonder about buying my mates one as that dosent need a huge amount of welding for test, if they are worth a few quid :rolleyes:
there not expensive in comparison, but do need the work. if you can diy then yes, if you have to fork out to pay someone else, then probably not.
 
mine flew through the test.

no advisories.

the rust, and what i'm doing to mine now, is purely my choice to keep my disco in good order.

wouldn't you do the same to your 90 ?

its nice to see that some owners want to make their vehicles last longer rather than wait till they fail a test and chuck them :)

it is a very smart disco I must say keep up the good work :)

eventually yes ! my 90 is fairly rust free at the moment but when the funds are available she will be treated to a galv chassis and bulkhead , although that will mean thers hardly anything left original as it had been rolled before I purchased and repaired it along with new axles,transfer box, soon to be engine and gearbox .....lol !

my mates one just needs rear callipers, rear body mounts, a patch on boot floor and patch on one sill
 
I suppose if you add up everything we spend on keeping our Landys in good order, would be far more than the 'book' value,

but we still do it anyway.
 
lol
that's what you think.......:eek:
:D
good point that ! although its had so much replaced what else on a discovery can rot? its even had chassis rot repaired !

true although after a while we cant live without our landies regardless of cost :D mine actually owes me 3 grand all in which surprisingly I have been told its worth 3 grand or more if I was to sell :confused:
 
good point that ! although its had so much replaced what else on a discovery can rot? its even had chassis rot repaired !

true although after a while we cant live without our landies regardless of cost :D mine actually owes me 3 grand all in which surprisingly I have been told its worth 3 grand or more if I was to sell :confused:

pretty much everything between the front bumper and the back bumper.

not wanting to enter a massive debate, but a lot also depends on the quality of whats been replaced, and how its been replaced.
a common conversation I have with people at the workshop, is the difference between mot work and restoration work.

my disco should have been not economically viable, but as I did the work meself I don't count that.
while not to restoration standard, I cut more crap out than was required for mot work. it was also not replaced to restoration standard either. ("lap jointed" rather than "let in")
 
pretty much everything between the front bumper and the back bumper.

not wanting to enter a massive debate, but a lot also depends on the quality of whats been replaced, and how its been replaced.
a common conversation I have with people at the workshop, is the difference between mot work and restoration work.

my disco should have been not economically viable, but as I did the work meself I don't count that.
while not to restoration standard, I cut more crap out than was required for mot work. it was also not replaced to restoration standard either. ("lap jointed" rather than "let in")

you have forgotten the bumpers themselves :hysterically_laughi

true , I have seen some really dreadfull "mot work " on vehicles

it might not be restoration standard but if its neat enough that wont matter as long as its strong and the vehicle is looked after it will go on forever , except the roof its all covered in ally panelling so the outside will always look neat and good providing paint is good :D

I do really like discos and want another one as a more comfy daily driver to the 90 :rolleyes: although my patience with discos is limited as I have broken ribs this week while working on one:mad:
 
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more cutting out today.





found more rust :(

it appears that my 'surface rust' ........isn't :(






so, todays numpty question is .....

is the bulge in this side panel just there to keep the bank of relays in, or is it a 'strength' thing.???
If I was to replace the whole panel with a flat piece, and move the relays somewhere else, would that be ok????



and.........

If I was to replace the whole footwell, does that have to have the bulges in it as well???


good news is, I got my 1.6mm sheet, and they cut into 2x2ft panels. :)
 

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