discomark10
Well-Known Member
bit of a cheeky paint jobbie and it looks like its chicken dinner tonight!
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Test fitted my old alternator, seems to be quite good!
The belt is only slightly off, but that can easily be sorted with a few washers/spacers!
The main problem is this type of alternator only has 1 ear on 1 side of the body, so it would be a pain to fit the tensioner.
I'm going to swap the alternators over from L to R as the one in the standard position has 2 ears on each side.
The belt is only slightly off, but that can easily be sorted with a few washers/spacers!
The main problem is this type of alternator only has 1 ear on 1 side of the body, so it would be a pain to fit the tensioner.
I'm going to swap the alternators over from L to R as the one in the standard position has 2 ears on each side.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Nice
Don't think my stock alternator is properly in line anyway!
Shonky rover v8 made from out of square blocks
Still coping with my 70A despite having Blackpool illuminations up front, just a little dubious of loading up my water pump pulley, I run the water pump untensioned using a custom belt that is pretty loose to minimise wear/failure on the pump, to run an alternator it would need tensioning I think
Don't think my stock alternator is properly in line anyway!
Shonky rover v8 made from out of square blocks
Still coping with my 70A despite having Blackpool illuminations up front, just a little dubious of loading up my water pump pulley, I run the water pump untensioned using a custom belt that is pretty loose to minimise wear/failure on the pump, to run an alternator it would need tensioning I think
discomark10
Well-Known Member
yea that through did come into my head too, but they run the AC pump from there I believe.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
no, I fully understand your thinking, but needs must
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Had a go at using the mill as a mill for the 1st time to make the 2nd alternator tensioner. .. not bad if I say so myself considering I've not done milling before.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I didnt notice until I had started the vice wasn't dead on 0 lol.. it shal do.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
On that subject, as you know I've now fitted an AC pump, had to replace the water pump as it was fooked, thus getting around the tensioning issue!
I think a regular alternator tenstioner would work fine for for both application's but I was in a rush.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
So got the alternator in now, it all works as it should!
The only issue left is the belt palaver...
I ordered a new belt as the standard one from the other side was a bit small..
I ordered it 1mm wider and 2" longer.. Turns out as its wider and it fits to the same size as the original! :d'oh:
Then I ordered one 6" longer and 1mm thinner.. ITS HUGE lol.. way to long!
Ended up faffing about with all the belts I had spare and got one which was just long enough so the alternator will clear the heater matrix pipes behind.
With the wiring..
I took a spur off the wire that powers the rotor coil to start the alternator (from battery light) and added 2 diodes, one to each wire so the alternators don't feed each other when running, as this could cause it to either turn off or over charge.
The only issue with this is it takes a couple seconds to turn them both on as there's a very low amount of current going to the alternator in the 1st place and now its devided by 2!
This is so the alternator has just enough electromagnetic field to start itself without being to dificult to turn.
This could be overcome by allowing more current past the battery light by adding a resistor with the same (or similar) resistance value as the bulb in parallel with light bulb or a second feed from the ignition with sed resistor.
Then the outputs go to each battery which are not connected, everything that is powered from the 2nd battery like the lights which turn on from the main battery have a relay to switch it on so it remains isolated.
The earth's are shared.
The only issue left is the belt palaver...
I ordered a new belt as the standard one from the other side was a bit small..
I ordered it 1mm wider and 2" longer.. Turns out as its wider and it fits to the same size as the original! :d'oh:
Then I ordered one 6" longer and 1mm thinner.. ITS HUGE lol.. way to long!
Ended up faffing about with all the belts I had spare and got one which was just long enough so the alternator will clear the heater matrix pipes behind.
With the wiring..
I took a spur off the wire that powers the rotor coil to start the alternator (from battery light) and added 2 diodes, one to each wire so the alternators don't feed each other when running, as this could cause it to either turn off or over charge.
The only issue with this is it takes a couple seconds to turn them both on as there's a very low amount of current going to the alternator in the 1st place and now its devided by 2!
This is so the alternator has just enough electromagnetic field to start itself without being to dificult to turn.
This could be overcome by allowing more current past the battery light by adding a resistor with the same (or similar) resistance value as the bulb in parallel with light bulb or a second feed from the ignition with sed resistor.
Then the outputs go to each battery which are not connected, everything that is powered from the 2nd battery like the lights which turn on from the main battery have a relay to switch it on so it remains isolated.
The earth's are shared.
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