Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Great bit of info dude thanks very much.
Yes abs has gone through so many sensors and still doesn't work so unplugged it in frustration lol. Plus no good off road anyway.
Ah ok the rope idea I hadn't thought of cheers. If you happen to come across the measurements then let me know but don't worry too much as I should stop being lazy and just work it out myself lol.
Think I'm just worried I won't leave enough slack for articulation especially as I'm thinking of buying my mates 35 x10.5 Simex's!
Also gotta find the part number for the hose splitter that goes on the bulkhead on the non-abs setup
Yes abs has gone through so many sensors and still doesn't work so unplugged it in frustration lol. Plus no good off road anyway.
Ah ok the rope idea I hadn't thought of cheers. If you happen to come across the measurements then let me know but don't worry too much as I should stop being lazy and just work it out myself lol.
Think I'm just worried I won't leave enough slack for articulation especially as I'm thinking of buying my mates 35 x10.5 Simex's!
Also gotta find the part number for the hose splitter that goes on the bulkhead on the non-abs setup
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
hey chris,
just to let you know,
he got the braided lines idea from me
soz
Ha ha did think that after I posted it.
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
hey chris,
just to let you know,
he got the braided lines idea from me
soz
But was an idea worth stealing
So much easier to work with than copper!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Chris
You run the lines your own way so nobody's measurements are identical
If going to non abs you need a master cylinder and bias valve from a non abs 300 disco, and you need a T piece for the rear axle, or Dave could probably supply one
Regards articulation, don't worrt cos you run the lines down the radius arms and up to the chassis near the mounting bush so the arms could do near 180° without binding the pipes
Also if you don't want the whole job just copper the rear as per normal non abs and braid the fronts
Have a look through my thread around January-feb this year theres a load of install pics
And Robb don't worry about idea theft, sharing is caring
It was Mark L that started it tbh with braided front caliper hoses to replace the copper section, then it went on and on from there
You run the lines your own way so nobody's measurements are identical
If going to non abs you need a master cylinder and bias valve from a non abs 300 disco, and you need a T piece for the rear axle, or Dave could probably supply one
Regards articulation, don't worrt cos you run the lines down the radius arms and up to the chassis near the mounting bush so the arms could do near 180° without binding the pipes
Also if you don't want the whole job just copper the rear as per normal non abs and braid the fronts
Have a look through my thread around January-feb this year theres a load of install pics
And Robb don't worry about idea theft, sharing is caring
It was Mark L that started it tbh with braided front caliper hoses to replace the copper section, then it went on and on from there
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Not a problem
but like Sam said it was originally his idea And yes abs is useless off road. Even more useless on a disco as it's the most unreliable crap ever invented!
Err.... Well if you run down the radius arms on the front and along the A-frame and then along back of axle case to either caliper at the back then it shouldn't matter too much as the lines will follow the arms. No need for mega amounts of extra line like you would on the standard set up for the wings to front axle.
I'm sure I can find them, iirc I stashed the measurements in my receipt pile for the disco along with the invoice for them.
I may have a splitter here. Come off my old Disco if you need one. You should have a Bias valve though? It will have a plug in it to block off one outlet.
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robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Chris
You run the lines your own way so nobody's measurements are identical
If going to non abs you need a master cylinder and bias valve from a non abs 300 disco, and you need a T piece for the rear axle, or Dave could probably supply one
Regards articulation, don't worrt cos you run the lines down the radius arms and up to the chassis near the mounting bush so the arms could do near 180° without binding the pipes
Also if you don't want the whole job just copper the rear as per normal non abs and braid the fronts
Have a look through my thread around January-feb this year theres a load of install pics
And Robb don't worry about idea theft, sharing is caring
It was Mark L that started it tbh with braided front caliper hoses to replace the copper section, then it went on and on from there
I still have the abs master cylinder
It works! So I'm happy. Bias valve is the same between abs and non abs, just the abs version has a plug in it to block one pipe.
Haha very true!
sharing is caring! Chris.
I do have the measurements I found them but depends whether or not you want to run them like mine or your own way.
Also have 2 spare t-pieces here should you need one? Could only buy a pack of 3 on eBay and bugger it if I was paying halfrauds price for one!
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Cheers guys.
Was clearly very tired last night as couldn't get my head around the idea of lines running down the radius arms lol.
Figured it out now, where do you fit the connectors for each corner? On the arms or off the axle?
Also think I remember the splitter value, that's above the rear axle but can anyone get a picture of the non-abs line setup under the bonnet? Would help be figure out what lines I'm gonna be running where including the bias valve please.
Well if you have a spare t - piece it would be greatly appricated Rob as I might as well have a new one of there to go with new lines. Might well buy a new bias valve too.
Was clearly very tired last night as couldn't get my head around the idea of lines running down the radius arms lol.
Figured it out now, where do you fit the connectors for each corner? On the arms or off the axle?
Also think I remember the splitter value, that's above the rear axle but can anyone get a picture of the non-abs line setup under the bonnet? Would help be figure out what lines I'm gonna be running where including the bias valve please.
Well if you have a spare t - piece it would be greatly appricated Rob as I might as well have a new one of there to go with new lines. Might well buy a new bias valve too.
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Haha. Mine literally run along the top of the arm, then under the spring seat, does a 180, then attached to the top swivel pin where the original line was, then down to the caliper. No chance of the line being pinched this way.
My 90 degree connector on the opposite end is secured to a tab I welded under the body just above the radius arm. Then runs along the chassis a small way then into the engine bay.
From the master cylinder I have 2 short hoses which connect to the bias valve. The hose out of the master cylinder closet to the bulkhead fits in the rear part of the bias valve.
The front line from master cylinder goes to front which has the appropriate 2 lines out. One for each front corner.
Here's a pic of my bias valve/master cylinder setup to help as my description probably makes no sense at all.
And send me an address via pm and I'll post a t-piece to you.
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Ah ok yes that sounds like a good setup. So does the new braided line run right into the caliper?
so do all your equal length lines start at the 90 where the radius arms meet the chassis?
So.in your photo there are three lines coming out the master cylinder. Two at the front run to each front caliper and rear heads down the chassis to a splitter at the rear axle? Have you left any normal hoses om the system or are they all braided now?
so do all your equal length lines start at the 90 where the radius arms meet the chassis?
So.in your photo there are three lines coming out the master cylinder. Two at the front run to each front caliper and rear heads down the chassis to a splitter at the rear axle? Have you left any normal hoses om the system or are they all braided now?
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Nope braided has connectors before the caliper. Here's a pic.
Female swivel fitting on the end on the braided line, then another fitting (can't remember the name of it) but it's as you can see in the photo. Just means that no matter how I run the line the caliper end will always line up. As the 90 degree fitting doesn't turn.
In the photo in my previous post it showed the 2 very short lines (1@130mm and 1@140mm) going to bias valve then the 3 lines coming out of the bias valve below. 2 for front one for back.
From the bias valve I have 3 differnet lengths. On for o/s front brake. Which is 830mm long.
One for the n/s front brake which round the bulkhead above the engine which is 1880mm long.
Them the rear line which runs along the chassis to the t-piece which is 2100mm long.
From there its the same length hoses on each corner which are 1700mm.
So no copper hose at all that all got ripped out. Completely custom!
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Great thread and some great mods and work done so far, dont suppose you have progress pics the arches being done ? gonna attempt mine next week but struggling to find any decent pics showing how its done
Right so...... Didn't get as much done today as I was hoping
Every bolt holding the body on was seized bastid solid!
Managed to undo them all eventually though so the bus is almost ready to be put on the lift blocks. Just need to undo my steering shaft and up she goes.
Once all the bolts were undone I decided to leave it as I'll have some help tomorrow for the body lift itself so got on a fitted the extended arches.
Now need to buy a new set of offset wheels or spacers.
So by the time I got this far it was getting dark so gave up for the night ready for a bright early start tomorrow.
Cheers.
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Haha! Nothing was as easy as it looks! Tis a land rover after all.
Well fitting the dislocation cones was a breeze but that's cos I rebuilt the axles 2 months before and put loads off copper grease on the nuts and bolts. Probably the easiest job I've done yet.
Thanks very much. Appreciate it.
I don't have any progress pics unfortunately. As usual I got carried away and forgot :doh:
But! Here's a step by step guide I found on how to fit them though. http://www.discoweb.org/ecrflares/index.htm
Helped me out with the rears at least, the fronts are easy.
Hope it helps.
