rob_bell said:
Yes, a modified, rounded punch Joe. I modified one to replicate - it has a diameter of around 3-4mm. But he uses a lump hammer! I definitely wouldn't have done that - but have now seen the master in action :)
Click to expand...
I can understand why he used the lump hammer. It is the sort of job you want to do once on each indentation. The shape of the punch and the (weight) and height of the lump hammer is actually perfect due to it's inherent repeatability (Still would not attempt it unless I had a scrap head to practice work on. :eek:) -

You just need that supercharger on there now at a few PSI......;)
 
rob_bell said:
Thanks Joe - and this was done for a very reasonable price - less than half what it would have cost me locally here in London...

Hopefully light at the end of the tunnel for the engine :)

The only down side, which isn't really a down side, is that this engine will now be using a manual tensioner and belt rather than the auto tensioner and belt it should have: the cylinder head came from an earlier car (an Elise I suspect). No biggie, but will surely cause any future owner a bit of a nightmare! LOL Not a problem for me though ;)
Click to expand...
The manual tensioner is a better job anyway. I had an auto tensioner on my 99 F VVC but after fitting I found the belt was way too slack, I ended up manually tensioning using the twist method. IE Where the belt is longest, can I twist it 90deg? If more then too loose, if less then too tight.
It's a good way to double check you have it right as it's possible to get it wrong even with the manual tensioner.
 
As it happens Joe, thanks to the previous owner, I now have a couple of scrap heads now that I shall use for practice! LOL

Alibro said:
The manual tensioner is a better job anyway. I had an auto tensioner on my 99 F VVC but after fitting I found the belt was way too slack, I ended up manually tensioning using the twist method. IE Where the belt is longest, can I twist it 90deg? If more then too loose, if less then too tight.
It's a good way to double check you have it right as it's possible to get it wrong even with the manual tensioner.
Click to expand...

Yes, you're right - which is why I am not at all worried :) But you can imagine anyone who didn't know the history of the car might choose to use some choice vocabulary on discovering that they'd ordered the wrong cam belt and tensioner! LOL ;)
 
This is the head gasket I am going to fit:

IMG_3569.JPG

The Payen "Blue" (BW750). I like the extra reinforcement on the elasteromeric beading - very neat :)

IMG_3570.JPG
 
It's good that you peened the fire ring lands.
This is something that should be automatically done on the K series head, but sadly isn't.
It'll have two effects, both of which are a benefit.
First off, it will close off any "voids" hidden below the surface, which will only compress when bolt torque is applied.
Second, it will slightly "work harden" the ring land area, making subsequent failure less likely.
A very worthwhile mod indeed.
 
Agreed. Sadly there are plenty of things that should be done when replacing the cylinder head gasket - not least careful inspection and hardness testing IMO. Judging from some of the on-line guides I've seen, I have real doubt as to how long the replaced gasket will last...:confused:
 
Nodge68 said:
The BW750 has fully rolled fire rings too. Many earlier gaskets didn't have rolled rings. This caused them to dig into the heat on clamping, giving uneven clamping across the head face.
Click to expand...
I'll take another picture of this because you're right, the fire ring does look quite distinctive on this gasket :)
 
I didn't get quite as much time on the Hippo this weekend as I would have liked, but the replacement valves now lapped into the skimmed head, and have now got all the valves in. The collets were jolly fiddly! Lucky I had some spares, as I dropped a couple, never to be seen :(

Next step is to apply the Loctite anaerobic sealant, and torque the cam carrier down (I got a couple of good cams off Dave which were heading for the scrap bin! Standard parts are not generally of much interest to engine tuners! LOL)

I've also checked all the head bolts that came with the engine - all seem to be within the 97mm tolerance permitted in the Rover build manual. :) So very soon, the engine will finally start coming back together!
 
rob_bell said:
I didn't get quite as much time on the Hippo this weekend as I would have liked, but the replacement valves now lapped into the skimmed head, and have now got all the valves in. The collets were jolly fiddly! Lucky I had some spares, as I dropped a couple, never to be seen :(

Next step is to apply the Loctite anaerobic sealant, and torque the cam carrier down (I got a couple of good cams off Dave which were heading for the scrap bin! Standard parts are not generally of much interest to engine tuners! LOL)

I've also checked all the head bolts that came with the engine - all seem to be within the 97mm tolerance permitted in the Rover build manual. :) So very soon, the engine will finally start coming back together!
Click to expand...
I've always used new head bolts as each time I've done a head gasket. I knew they had been done before and as I'd no way of knowing what quality of bolts were used last time I didn't like to take the chance.
Is there a way you can tell if the old bolts are OEM or ebay cheapies?
 
Thanks Alibro: I hadn't considered that possibility! I have a set of OEM bolts stored away: I'll dig them out.

When I inspected the bolts I removed, there appear to be two types with a different chamfer angle on the tip of the bolt and a different length before the thread starts.

It'll probably be fine, but a shame to waste money on a good gasket if there is a risk that the bolts are not up to the task...

(Also, I was hardly impressed with the previous efforts at head gasket replacement - some very obvious bodges found - so who knows what engine bolts have been used???)
 
Alibro said:
I've always used new head bolts as each time I've done a head gasket. I knew they had been done before and as I'd no way of knowing what quality of bolts were used last time I didn't like to take the chance.
Is there a way you can tell if the old bolts are OEM or ebay cheapies?
Click to expand...
The factory 9.8 bolts were made by Kamax. This is identified by the letter K on the top of the bolt head ;)
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
The factory 9.8 bolts were make by Kamax. This is identified by the letter K on the top of the bolt head ;)
Click to expand...
Nice one. Wish I'd known that before forking out for 3 sets of bolts. :oops:
I've heard of others using bolts from a different engine so if that is OK then does it really matter if you refit your bolts in the same holes they were taken out of?
 
Alibro said:
Nice one. Wish I'd known that before forking out for 3 sets of bolts. :oops:
I've heard of others using bolts from a different engine so if that is OK then does it really matter if you refit your bolts in the same holes they were taken out of?
Click to expand...
My memory is shot. As the Kamax bolts actually have KX in the top.
 
What is the minimum height / thickness for a K-series head and how or where do you measure it? Just worried that If i have a go at peening my spare head it could wind up being thinner - below the min' height recommended.
 
I couldn't have said it better myself Nodge! ;)

Unfortunately it was dark when I got home last night, and I've left the head bolts in the block for safe keeping for now. But I'll inspect the heads for those "KX" marks. :)
 
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