steve2286w · Nov 13, 2019

After 5 years of the 200tdi engine sitting in the garage I finally got round to stripping it down checking for wear and putting new bearings in. this is described on another thread here
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200-tdi-engine-checking-refurb.346897/

Must haves on this project for me:
Keeping battery and oil bath air filter under bonnet
DI rather than Tdi to keep it simple and more space up around engine
Keep the capstan winch without major mods
Keep the diesel hand throttle
it’s almost done now and I will post pics of how I did it and problems encountered
the main issues

Engine mounts

Battery tray

Temp sender

Alternator

Oil gauge

Solenoid wiring

Winch fitting

steve2286w · Nov 15, 2019

Engine out:

I took various pics around the engine bay of the wiring connections on the 1984 5MB diesel. pretty much as Haynes manual, took the drivers side wing off to allow access to the battery tray, most of the bits went in the tub, I used little freezer bags to keep sets of bolts in and labelled up otherwise I would have forgot in the time it took to get it fitted

Next job was to get the oil and grime off bulkhead and bellhousing and touch up the paintwork
I had a few times where the diesel was syphoning from tank when either the suction of return pipes dropped, a golf tee plugs them nicely.
It now the best time to think about cleaning and wrapping the wiring and painting chassis I thought id leave it for another time making it twice as hard

I removed the battery tray itself leaving the tray support on 4 legs, i wanted to keep and as much of the legs as possible took pics all round and measurements from chassis

The battery tray leg that goes onto the engine mount had to go to get the engine in, this was cut off with thin grinder disc

I used the old diesel clutch , the 200tdi plate (on left ) wont fit as input splines are different

Aligning the 200 to get it engaged on gearbox was an absolute pig tilting engine and gearbox with jacks and bits of wood after 2 days I bought one of these after work and got it in before me tea

dieseldog69 · Nov 15, 2019

This is motoring along quickly.

Disco1BFG · Nov 15, 2019

Nice to see this progress - well done that man - excellent

gaza gas · Nov 15, 2019

now this is why i applied for membership of lz.
many thanks Steve for shareing.
garry.

Knappster · Nov 15, 2019

Looking good.

steve2286w · Nov 16, 2019

dieseldog69 said:
This is motoring along quickly.

as fast as a series diesel LOL, the old engine came out 2 months ago!

steve2286w · Nov 16, 2019

Engine Mounts:
I got some of the round defender type ANR1808 sold as suitable for series 200tdi conversion came in a Bearmach bag they seemed pliable when squeezed'
I had thoughts of raising the engine a bit using a couple of 4mm thick spacers to avoid crank pulley hitting axle however i decided against this for now as i needed to fit the air cleaner in

Battery tray:
I took a while over measurements and photos on this critical part of the job as it need to miss the engine and bonnet and not too much to spare
A big thanks to @nickjaxe for the inspiration and pics he sent me of how to adapt the battery tray.
to get both to fit in about the same place.

Need to buy a smaller battery the tdi/di doesent need the old series diesel 95A size so a got a 65A one
Chop down the battery tray keeping air filter bit in place
I cut the tray support leg off the engine mount and cut the others removing the top, the legs had inserts welded about 35mm high, i drilled new holes in the outere tray to have a flexible height adjustment
the rear leg becomes redundant with the shorter battery tray
I made a new end as old end was a bit crispy allowing enough room to get plastic tray in and the battery clamps
horn was fixed to front
the sloping panel above the chassis steering arm had about 25mm chopped off to allow the battry to move further forward
for air filter support i used the existing hole in the middle of round base and used a bit of 5mmx 25mm bar bent and fixed to chassis with rivnut and 8mm screws
to get a bit more clearance near the timing case i trimmed back some of the tray under the air filter

steve2286w · Nov 16, 2019

Temperature Sender:

the 200tdi sender is not a match for the Series 3 temp gauge. On my 84 diesel the S3 sender has a 5/8 unf thread but the hole for the 200tdi is M16 x 1mm pitch
Ebay to the rescue again
ERC8973 Temp Sender Adaptor 5/8TH UNF Fine Thread Land Rover Series 3

dieseldog69 · Nov 16, 2019

steve2286w said:
as fast as a series diesel LOL, the old engine came out 2 months ago!

I started fixing a patch of rust on a wheel arch on my Discovery 1 over a year ago and it's still not ready yet

By my standards this is flying along lol

steve2286w · Nov 16, 2019

I can procrastinate with the best of them
On the rear wings on the series I araldited some ally on the inside where corrosion had made some holes I used some ply to clamp it either side, I how have rear wings part made of wood awaiting a body repair from 2 years ago

steve2286w · Nov 17, 2019

Alternator:

When I bought the engine off ebay it came fully 200tdi loaded , manifolds starter, alternator, air filter radiator and pipes engine wiring loom etc
i redid the old series wiring to starter and alternator from battery using the 200tdi wires the old ones were cracked and in v poor condition
The Alternator had been sitting in a box for 5 years without being looked at so mildly surprised to see another 16ACR

This can fit if you keep the bracket off the 200tdi that holds the alternator and the PS pump but then you need two pulley belts
If you want to keep it simple you use the old bracket off the S3 with a aluminium spacer which brings the 3 pulleys back into line

In this pic the bracket has been wire brushed and painted black, The later brackets have a metric thread for the bolt which goes through the block and spacer into alternator bracket this was M8 x 125mm, the original belt was used.
To tension it i was going to use a bolt on the timing case and although it fitted the angle looked wrong to keep the tension so i made an L bracket with a few holes in and bolted it to the spare lug as shown

Coolant hoses:

You can see from the pic above i used the old Series thermostat top and series hose a simple quick win with the 200TDi stat which opens a bit hotter as i recall

for the bottom some use a series top and bottom hose with bits cut off i lined them up but could bot see how it could be done. the pipes cross about 90 deg about 4 inches apart so tried with 2 cut down and joined bottom hoses this this works without kinks or touching engine or chassis

steve2286w · Nov 17, 2019

Exhaust Manifold:
Fitting the Di means you can use the old manifold, the minor problem is although all the ports match up the studs dont
its explained on Glencoynes website but you can see better when you use the old manifold gasket to line up the ports and and turn it over

So you can see about 2mm needs cut off manifold bottom to expose the stud holes fully.

then cut off little L shaped 90 deg wedges out of the top middle holes, again line up ports and scratch through the gasket onto head, did all the cuts in about 10mins
the manifold will now sit on bottom studs and locate tightly between top 2 middle studs

then you need L shaped clamps , i used some 100 x 100 x 8mm thick angle , drilled 11mm for the 10mm studs i cut the angle with some stainless steel thin cutting discs from screwfix went through no bother if the studs are too far in head you can unscrew them a bit with 2 nuts.

the manifold was de rusted and painted with High temp paint supposed to be black but comes out a grey colour i cured it in the outside BBQ at about 300 deg C for an hour

steve2286w · Nov 30, 2019

Throttle cable:

I used the original S3 diesel cable fitted at the bulkhead end to an existing bracket( i cant remember whether this as used in original setup anyone know?)

At the pump i used an aluminium insert secured with C clip, you can also use a slotted 16mm bolt and nut to same effect
then adjust the lever in pic above till no slack at tickover, the tickover is a bit quick so will need to look at this
i also checked the accelerator stop bolt , the pedal hits this at same tie as the injector pump max throttle stop

steve2286w · Nov 30, 2019

Capstan winch:

I had wondered for a few years if fitting the fairy capstan winch to the 200tdi/di would work without any serious mods
it does line up as before through the hole in bumper, and the Series 3 5MB crankbolt is same thread as 200tdi (20mm) , but the bolt head much smaller to fit inside the winch driving dog

Series 3 24mm/ (15/16)
200tdi 30mm AF

The 200tdi also has a very meaty washer so my solution was to machine down the head to match S3 bolt
and put plenty of threadlock on before torquing up

the torques for S3 and 200tdi are different with the 200tdi much higher , so i got it to about 230Nm on the wrench and then some with a bar

When the winch driveshaft is in fully retracted position there is a bit of clearance, If it does catch i will adjust the control arm bracket to pull it back a bit more
the other option is to fit a spacer where winch bolts to front cross member and elongate fixing holes in bumper

steve2286w · Nov 30, 2019

Solenoid:

The 200tdi has a solenoid that needs 12v to open the valve for diesel to go to injectors rather than the simple lever of the diesel CAV pump

the problem on the diesel is that when the engine cranks it cuts all 12v to accessories

so a simple solution is to find a permanent live spade terminal on fuse block and another that is 12v with ignition on

i wired in a push button switch with permanent live to one side and 12v switched with the solenoid cable on the other side of switch

so you press the discretely positioned button when cranking to start and it switched off on key

now just need a good use for the engine stop knob!, my first choice would have been to retain this with a switch to stop engine but couldnt work out how to do it

During the course of the wiring changes
i had the original engine loom wiring so used the 200tdi battery cable and earth and also the oil pressure , temp sender wires as these were in better condition than the old ones

I also managed to get the heater plug warning lamp to work which it had not since i put parallel heater plugs in the Series, ill save that for another post

Disco1BFG · Nov 30, 2019

steve2286w said:
my first choice would have been to retain this with a switch to stop engine but couldnt work out how to do it

Old style motorcycle rear brake switch

through a relay to interrupt the current .. ..... they come in useful for all sorts of jobs

.... you can guess how I know this

steve2286w · Nov 30, 2019

some thing like this?, that’s clever

Disco1BFG said:
Old style motorcycle rear brake switch through a relay to interrupt the current .. ..... they come in useful for all sorts of jobs .... you can guess how I know this

steve2286w · Nov 30, 2019

Engine Noise:

Once plumbed in and started there was a loud banging noise which was very disconcerting as it was not there when I had it going on the ground, it was louder coming out of inlet hose.
I removed rocker cover and noticed valve 1 adjuster loose and I the valve cap had come off, fortunately not yet fell into sump, the result was that the gap was so big No1 exhaust valve was not opening and so the exhaust gas had to come out of inlet valve as well as some past rings and valve seals! Set tappets and all’s was well

I had a test drive today ...observations
Exhaust very clear when on tickover, running and accelerating so this will please the mot man in DEC
Lively at low revs ,seems to rev ok stationary
I’m getting the full range of throttle movement on lever when pedal all way down

Currently not as fast as the series diesel
Was struggling up hill and on flat foot flat down was only getting 40-45mph
It has the original fuel filter that stood in my garage for 5 years, which I will change in case of blockage
I have heard there is a fuel screw to tweak a bit which may help?
Could there be anything else I should look at

Hicap phill · Nov 30, 2019

Is the pump opening up fully?
Only asking as rod to cable mods don’t always equate.

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